Different hooks, plus different brands all change depth and sink rate. The most weight I will add is a nail in the head. If I need it deeper I let it sink. I will fish what is known as the "homo rig" lol. The split shot about a foot up but that's not for twitching, that's for slowing down

I use a 4/0 Owner J hook and I will add a 1/64-1/16 oz drop shot weight to the hook. Begin rigging the fluke, open up the wire on the drop shot weight so it will slip over the hook then finish rigging the fluke Tx. posed. The drop shot weight should swing freely and it will make the bait wiggle as it falls.

A 4/0 Owner screw lock hook works well also.


I use this set up for throwing a weightless Senko type bait only I remove the drop shot weight when I switch from the fluke to the Senko.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Varivas-Hooking-Master-Worm-Hook-Ring-Offset-Monster-Size-4-0-2689/253141288991?epid=1876986133&hash=item3af065881f:g:6iwAAOSwRplZshAN

hook size or fluorocarbon.
action is reduced with fluoro, but it sinks faster.
if it is not windy, I will wait it out. I have caught many good fish on a 20 second glide to the bottom.

I've used the belly weighted hooks, either manufactured or with a split shot on the hook shank. Another option would the the Gamakatsu Superline hooks which being thicker requires a little more meat on the hook set. Lastly I've inserted weight into the fluke between the eye and point. This is unconventional but I keep stripped copper wire of different gauges in my boat to use for weight inserts. Cutting the wire with diagonal cutters at an angle leaves a sharp point for insertion.

Straight braid no swivel, 5/0 superline hook or regular fluke 6/0 on mag fluke. Weighting it kills the action

A VMC Drop Dead hook has a longer shank than most others, seems to do what it is intended to do implied in its name: to look like something struggling and dying and falling down through the water column . . . horizontally. Drop dead.

I'd exchange its pin for a much better Owner CPS. Keep the weight light.

Anyway, the idea here is for at least some of the time, some conditions, fish in general prefer to see things falling/moving through the water horizontally, not diving nose down. It makes them looked stunned or dying I suppose.

Nice hooks for the right occasion.

Brad

Weighting it kills the action is absolutely a false statement. When you add a 1/64 oz. drop shot weight to the wide gap hook it will center itself at the low point on the hook and make the fluke fall horizontally with a wiggling motion. I have watched the action of it in a swimming pool with and without the weight. It has more wiggle with the weight.

If you use an EWG, bend it slightly to expose the point. I've lost 2 DD fish on flukes (one was in the teens), and I believe the EWG played a roll in it. I haven't fished with an EWG without bending it in the last 7 years and haven't lost any fish using them since.

^^^ why I don't use EWG hooks anymore. Just a regular 3/0 offset, swivel about 18" and a small split shot right before the swivel to help it sink just a touch faster. Been a money rig for me.

It does

different topic but made me wonder. What style hook do you use on a 10" worm? I had been using offset round bends for a while and lost a couple nice fish and think that the worm was balled up on the hook shank and prevented me from getting a good hook into them. Have switched to EWG's to combat that. Have not had enough opportunities since the switch to know if that solved the problem. Was curious what your thoughts were after reading your above post. I will have to try bending the points out as well on the EWG's.

thanks

not a fan of bending hooks, it weakens them. just find the right sized/shaped hook for the plastic. so many to choose from these days.

I use the EWG for flukes and the offset for mag worms. The offset is available up to 7/0. I use 4/0 for 10" worms and 5/0-6/0 for 12". That's my preference, but anything 4 and above is long enough for any mag worm. That's been my experience, anyway. As for bending an EWG, look at the pre-bend/post-bend pics below.



I bend it just enough to where the tip is not pointing directly at the eye. To respond to the above post, any hook that is compromised by moving the point out as shown shouldn't be in you're boat. There's one brand in particular that comes to mind.

Thanks for the detailed info. I�ll be giving it a try