2006 G3 1860 DLX/Yamaha 90 2 cycle. Picked it up about two years ago down in Rockport. It had most of the ills associated with saltwater boats, so the first thing it got was a complete rewire using marine grade AWG wire. For some reason G3 sees fit to use SAE wire which for the same gauge is 12-18% smaller than AWG and has less current carrying capability. Starting with the T-Top, it's a Fishmaster. I installed it shortly after getting the boat because it's also a service/work boat and I needed some relief from the mid-day sun going from job to job. It's mounted on 3/8" aluminum plate, drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 SS machine screws. The aluminum plate is screwed to 4 stringers in the hull with SS sheet metal screws for rigidity.

You can't sit on the water all day without tunes, so the electronic box, along with an assortment of junk, houses a marine stereo with speakers mounted on the bottom and a Marine VHF with folding antenna mounted to the top of the T-Top frame. I put the all-around light on top of the T-top because it's required to be the highest thing on the boat for nighttime visibility.

The rear seat sits in a base plate with swivel for driving. The swivel gets me in front of the steering wheel. For fishing the seat moves to the rear base and sits on a standard post for fishing. There is also a LED light strip and another in front of the console and operated from a switch on the console. The LEDs can be toggled between red and white, nice for night fishing or loading/unloading at night. Four rod holders are installed on the rear deck and with the rocket launchers on the T-top, I can carry 8 rods so buddys can bring whatever rods they like and they are up off the deck. Not seen in the photos are a Racor water separator/fuel filter and a Blue Sea ACR that connects batteries for charging when either battery senses a charging source, All of the Battery cables were reworked with new Ancor Marine battery cable with lugs and heat shrink.

The front deck is still a work in progress but almost done. I'm waiting for the Minn Kota quick release mount for the TM, which should be here tomorrow. Since I use this boat for work, it's necessary to keep the front deck clear for tools, parts, and equipment and I don't want the TM to get damaged by stuff sliding around in rough water. The front FF is a small Lowrance DSI unit mounted on a Ram Mount. I used the Ram Mount to get the FF a little closer to eye level and to adjust it for relief from glare. The two white square on the sloped part of the bow are mounting plates made from King Starboard. The one on e the left is just a pass-through for the FF cables and TM mount transducer and the right one is the plug for the TM. The anchor chock keeps the anchor handy and the rode is tied to an eyebolt below the deck so it doesn't slip away. There are 6 bases mounted on each side for Driftmaster rod holders, some of them homemade from aluminum bar stock because I don't want to wait for Cabelas to get them in stock

The big black box sitting in front of the console is a tool box that sits on a base I built to fit over the corner chocks for the cooler and keeps the tool box from sliding around when under way. The box comes out and a 96 qt. cooler sits in the chocks.

I think I covered everything, but I'm open to suggestions..

Nice rig!

did u put that sonar on a switch, because alot of times if you remove the head unit, the wires are still hot without a switch, and moisture pops the fuse. when on a switch, you dont have that problem.

I don't have them on a switch because I heard it might disrupt some kind of shutdown sequence and corrupt data. I guess I could just to turn power on/off. I have an unused switch on the console.

Only thing you are missing is some poles, beer and a day off work.

Very nice !!

I've got the poles, and don't drink beer, so maybe all I need is or my customers to stop calling so I can go fishing.. Well, No, if that happens, then I'm just sitting around wishing I had gas money.

whoever told you that is retarted. You turn the unit off as you regularly would, not by the switch. The only reason for the switch is so that the exposed pins that are left to the elements once you remove the head unit, cannot short and blow the fuse due to moisture.
After you power the unit down then turn the switch off. NO MORE BLOWN FUSEY !

Nice boat.