I've had this motor since 2008 and can not get it pervect, close, but not perfect. Clean inside and out. Run with Seafoam stablizer in fuel. Starts and runs great. Clean carbs and new plugs, filter, fuel, etc. Timing is on the mark, do not know if timing mark is correct.

Problem #1 My mechanic set the idel a little fast (so much for quality work), set at 1200, should be 650-700. It wobbles when ideling. It this just the nature of the design of shear power having a hard time doing slow, or is it a bent cam or other issue.

Problems #2 Sometimes it hesitates when apply full throttle at 30-40 mph to full throtle. Sometime it will stalls. Will alway restart. Is this bad carb sync, leaking seals, or other issue.

Problems #3 Get high temp alarm if I enter water above 85 degrees. is ths a pop out termostat or is it outside the operating temp of the engine.

Go see Brad at Bear Marine in Pilot Point. I have a '92 XR6 that other mechanics chased the same type of issues on my motor. Brad had it fixed in one trip.

www.bearmarine.com

No cam in an XR6. Sounds to me like the carbs were not cleaned right. Idle wobble and overheat tells me the idle circuits may still be dirty causing a lean condition. This will cause the stumble also. Could be the idle air settings. Only timing to set is full throttle timing. Idle timing is set to 700-750rpm in the water. These Mercs will not idle perfect.

Gary is correct, two stroke engines do not have a camshaft.

Put a "complete" water pump kit in it and do tha carbs. Just make sure that "whoever" does it knows what they're doin'. One thing with tha wmh carbs ya gotta watch is tha seats for tha needle. When its removed and new gasket is installed ya gotta make sure its good n tight. They will back out if not. I put a very small drop of loctite on 'em just because......

As for tha "wobble" only thing I've seen that "wobbles" is bent prop and/or propshaft. Now if it "shakes" that's a different story!.......

How and who did tha timin'? If its done right you would know if tha marks are wrong.........Very doubtful that's tha case.

Were in Mesquite Browns Boat Repair I can fix your motor if you live out this way

Give me a call
Gary Hughes
972-216-5556

Problem #1 My mechanic set the idel a little fast (so much for quality work), set at 1200, should be 650-700. It wobbles when ideling. It this just the nature of the design of shear power having a hard time doing slow, or is it a bent cam or other issue.

My first question is why was your mechanic adjusting the idle? Did your mechanic clean or rebuild the carbs? If so, this can be the root of a lot of your issues. 650 - 700 rpms is where your engine should be when idling in gear. The wobbling can be from a few issues: bad motor mounts, bent prop or prop shaft, a cylinder that is low on compression, a cylinder that is not firing.

I am wondering if your mechanic did not raise the idle on the engine to compensate for something else. A lot of mechanics can't figure out idle problems, so they will idle an engine up to compensate for issues. Did the mechanic change the idle timing?

Problems #2 Sometimes it hesitates when apply full throttle at 30-40 mph to full throtle. Sometime it will stalls. Will alway restart. Is this bad carb sync, leaking seals, or other issue.

This sounds like it can be from a couple of issues. Low compression or your engine timing is off. Typically, at this speed your engine is already pulling off of the main carburetor jet and should be initiated on the high output side of the stator and power packs.

Problems #3 Get high temp alarm if I enter water above 85 degrees. is ths a pop out termostat or is it outside the operating temp of the engine.

Remember: the engine does not have a closed loop cooling system and relies on the temperature of surface water to cool it down. If the water pump impeller is older than 24 - 30 months I would start there. Does it get hot idling or on plane? A lot of idling in 85 degree water temps will cause an engine to over heat.

More questions:

What type of boat do you have and what size prop is on the engine?

Did this problem just happen?

Thanks Guys, I'll try to anser your questions.
In 2009, the mecanic put in three new carb kits, two power packs, new water pump, cleaned the carbs twice, clean the oil system, and have me a huge bill over $2000 and tried to charge me for stuff he did not do. They were suppose to be Mercury certified and are in Rowlett on Hwy-66.

The hesistation and and idel wobble have been there since I bought the boat in 2008. I've been running seafoam mixed one 12 oz per 20 gallons. I have put 97 hours since the work. I let it warm up and cool down, and give it a 10 minutes wide open every time I go out. It is on the skeeter zx150 (18.5 ft) and it will top out at 59 mph when the bottom is nice an clean. The motor has the origional prop, not sure the number. The high temp only happens in shallow water over 85 degrees when running, once I enter deeper water below 85 degrees it will turn off. I have never had temp alarm go off during ideling. The wobble is not that bad, but a slite wobble.

Descriptions on a computer can be very hard ta "cipher! Your description of a "wobble" may be a "shake" ta some. There is a difference. A shake can very. A wobble is constant at a constant throttle setting. At (constant) idle in your case in my way of thinkin'. A shake at idle will very in intensity. Like smooth for a second then a shake then smooth again then shake and so on. Sometimes a "slight" misfire or "sneeze" will show up at tha same time it shakes. That's tha best I can do for a description that tells tha difference.

Put a water pump kit in it. Shouldn't alarm at any lake water temp, depth or rpm period. Ya might check or replace tha poppet. Check T-stats on tha stove with a thermometer.....

Tha hesitation could be carb deal. Why did they do 'em twice? Also could be electric (maybe timin')........jmo

In some ways, it does sound like your carburetors and initial timing need to be linked and synced. This is where you loosen all of the rod connections between the carbs, throttle cam, and timing tab, and pretty much start over like the engine is being built at the factory. This procedure needs to be done by someone who knows how to do it!

When some of these.......all of a sudden boat mechanics.......rebuild carbs they will loosen the brackets that hold the linkages to the throttle cams to remove them. Never do that. Pop them loose at the carburetor pivot ball.

Also, the ignition timing on outboards is not like an automobile, it is more closely related to a motorcycle or ATV. You typically never have to adjust the timing unless you have changed the timing base. This is connected to main linkage on the side of the engine at the very top. If your timing is too high, it can cause hesitation and could make your engine run hot.

Another thing I would look for is to make sure that compression between all cylinders is not greater than 10%.

On a Mercury Prop, if you can't see the pitch numbers on the side like on a Laser or Tempest, you can look at the prop hub where your prop nut is and the last two numbers indicate your pitch. I will venture to guess that it is a 23 pitch.