I have a '90 Skeeter 200DX. When I use the running lights everything seems OK. When I switch to just the anchor light (less load) the volt meter drops to about 10.5 V, suggesting a high-resistance connection or short and high current draw. I'm thinking the switch may be bad, because I don't get the voltage drop when all lights are on. I have disassembled the switch and it looked fine, but...

What do you fellas think could be causing the big voltage drop?

Thanks for your thoughts.

No doubt from the lack of responses, you have surmised that you have an unusual situation.

Your best bet might be to go ahead and replace that switch -- not sure that you can really determine it's condition with a physical inspection.

Another thing I would consider doing is put an ammeter in series with the wiring at the battery positive post and see if current increases when you switch from run to anchor. If not, it is probably not a short (which could be serious).

C.

C, thanks for giving this some thought.

I realized that I goofed up my problem description. It's just the other way around; when I use the anchor light there is very little voltage drop, but when I switch to the running lights the voltage drops significantly. This happens even without the bow light plugged in.

After studying it some more I see that all the instrument lights come on only when I switch on the running lights. I'm going to try to unplug the main instrument light wire and see if I still get the big voltage drop. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a wire breaking in that glob of wires under the instrument panel.

Does your Skeeter have a Nav. light switch on the bow as well as console? If so does the same problen exist if you use that switch?

C.

what does the batt drop to when running the trim motor ?

Bingo!!!

Your running 'NAV' lights should be powered only via the boats console master power switch when it is set to ON and the running light switch is also ON.

Your motor's instrument (gauge) lights and voltmeter should be powered only by B+ power coming from your boat motor and are only lit/voltage displayed when the motor's start switch in the motors wiring harness to the console is in the ON position.

Those circuits should be isolated and unrelated. Yours seem to be related and possibly miswired as your instrument lights don't come on until the running lights switch is ON.


You may have a running light power feed partial shorting to a ground which is loading the cranking battery a bit. The motor is powered off of this battery too, and feeding the motors B+ which you see as a drop on your voltage gauge.

my old champ was wired as to run the instrument lights with the key switch on , however my newer champ runs (did ) run the instrument light off the "nav lights switch .

btw way I corrected that with the addition of another switch.
I hated having the instrument light's on while fishing (with the required running lights on when not at anchor)