Does any one know or have any information or knowledge about the wiring schematic of the low speed idler? The red green wire...is burnt in several places...the boat runs like [censored] now and has the low oil pressure sensor sounding whiling idling. Have had all electrical parts high(2 years ago), low (last year)and statum (2 years ago)replaced. Any advice or help that anyone has I would most certainly appreciate!!!

You might look here http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc/Mercury/parts.html

Green with red tracer?
A green/red will fire either 5 or 6 depending on which switch box its coming from. If its crispy it can cause problems.

On tha carb motor there are only three things that give ya an oil type alarm. Low oil/bad sensor on motor tank, rotation sensor and/or bad module itself. Rotation can be tha gear not turnin' or no signal from tha switch box. Either way it needs ta be looked at as in now!............

Ok...after further inspection the advanced control module is the issue. I've been told and verified that this module is supposed to come off and the timing is to be retarded two degrees? Why would they design it that way and then recommend it be removed? Also, on that note, wouldn't doing that hurt its performance as far as the running aspect? Lastly, I haven't been able to locate a new part, only used ones. Does any one know the answers to these questions or provide any more insight on this issue! Thank you.

It was recommended by Mercury to remove them years ago motor problems were associated with the advance moduel. The idle timming will need to be advanced after removing it or the motor wo`nt idle or it will idle too slow. Then the total timming will need to be re-set.

the timing advance is the same on that motor, with or without the idle module..

( the advance module is was a bad design, and caused a lot of grief....performance is better without it as the darned thing fires on time , and not all over the place)

they recommend retarding the timing to 22 vs 24 because of todays fuels..

all you do is remove it , leave on the jumper between switchpacks , and adjust the idle timing (midway on the timing arm) to make a steady 650 -700 in gear .(usually wind up about 6-8 degrees after tdc..
then set your full advance to 22-23 before tdc , and you are good to go .

be sure that your sync.and link is correct..
(I/e carbs synced, pickup roller not touching the throttle plate.

Here's my progress: have determined that the switch box controlling 4,5,6 cylinder is bad. I assuming that the advance timing module burnt it up...(I'm hoping) going to replace them. As far as timing it up, it appears while cranking it may already be set to 22 any ways..should I try and retime it or leave it there. Also it appears the timing at wot is 24 or very close. Same question should I leave it be? Will post later once I know if it solves TW oil alarm and other non-spark issues! Thanks again for all of your help men!

Men...replaced both the switch boxes. Still have no spark on 4,5,6. What else could be causing no spark? We checked the stater as recommended in the book and all seems to be well. I am running out of time and options and I can't get any local shops to even return my call!

The trigger.

Rechecked the stator...below satisfactory testing numbers...have no way to easily pull the fly wheel. Things keep getting mo better all the time!

where are you located...

I'm up in Celina. I'm looking for parts online as we speak!

I just though knowing where you were might stir someone in being more able to offer some help..good Luck...

Thanks fella. I appreciate all the help and information!

Might check with bear marine and see if he can help you out