Some of this information is really good...

This is Don from Wildcat Lighting... the creator of the ones everyone seems to be trying to copy...

We DO NOT want to discourage anyone from doing their own LED lighting systems. There are kits available from many people that have discovered that they can make a few bucks doing so...

Just a few pointers for you industrious DIY's...

1. Always put a fuse at the battery - there have been many unfortunate incidents causing melt-downs where and when you don't want them...and make sure you use the right fuse for your circuit. NEVER transport the Kayak with the battery in it...
Always put the battery in a non-conductive container... in Kayaks a nylon Fanny Pack works great if it DOES NOT HAVE A METAL ZIPPER...! The metal zipper can cause a short. Keep the battery away from lures pliers tackle etc... that can cause a short.

2. DO NOT put your lights below the waterline as they will not be as effective and they will be subject to a great deal of abrasion. Placing the light a few inches or more above the waterline is much more functional. Most bait fish run within a few feet to 30 feet below the water line. If the lights you have selected are the correct frequency and of sufficient brightness the ripples in the water will act as prism's sufficient to attract fish from a much greater distance to you. The opacity(clarity) of the water in most Texas waters will seriously hinder underwater lights and also lights that are not the correct frequency... see the technical paper that I wrote on our home page - technical section called "Understanding Fish" which address's how light works in relationship to fishing. For inland waters the best color is green (ideally 5.22um). Actually the best frequency is in the UV spectrum - but that is proprietary to our new lighting system - which is tremendously greater in all types of water and is in the actual spectrum fish use. We expect that in very short order people will begin to attempt to copy it as well... good luck.

3. For Kayaks and many other boats, it is important that you use the correct adhesive. We use a special type that we have learned over the years that stays attached in virtually all conditions. It should meet the following criteria; UV resistant, salt resistant, oil and chemical resistant and of course is effective for both the led strip material and the material of the boat where it is to be used or it could cause you a lot of headaches.

4. Make sure that the wire that you or your tech uses as well as all materials such as heat-shrink tubing, connectors, etc are UV, chemical and salt resistant or they will not last long in the marine environment. We get in a lot of "repair jobs" from so called technicians out there that really have no idea what they are doing.

5. Plan your installation BEFORE you start... take some blue painters tape and place it where you plan to put your lights... make sure you have sufficient leads (wire) to be able to "fish" and connect it... know where your going to drill before you start the job... (I can not remember how many have drilled into places that were tanks, other wiring, structural points etc.) You should also know that the gauge of wire your going to use is right for the load and the distances required for the job to be done right.

There is no need what so ever to to put 16ft of light on a kayak... the right lights, if 1-3 feet long on each side is more than adequate for a vessel that moves under 10mph average...

Those of you who have our lights know that the bait fish can and will follow you in a kayak. Power boats are different because each place they move to is as though they are starting over again upon arrival to their new location hence, need to attract more fish from a greater area.

If any of you are doing "self installation" please feel free to give us a call and we will be glad to help you through it... We have been doing it a lot longer than anyone else and might be able to help.

We would much rather help you do it right ... we feel that you may have friends that are not as industrious as yourself and just might refer them to us.

We have schematics and instructions available on our web site and you should feel free to use them if they will help.

DA