Am restoring a 94 VIP. We wet sanded the clear coat down because it was VERY oxidized. Cleaned it, then wiped on ToonBrite. Looked great til it sat int he sun for about 2 weeks. The shine was completely gone and a splotchy chalky effect took over. Anyone know what this might be? Afraid to keep sanding for fear of getting into gel coat.

Also, I don't have a sprayer for the ToonBrite. Is there a cheap handy device for spraying this on? It has the consistency of lacquer, but dries REALLY fast.

Whizzin in the wind if ya keep it in the sun, wax it put in a shed. Ive heard of toonbrite thought it was for aluminum??

the toonbrite was a bad choice, get some mcquiars or mothers carnuba wax and give it about 3 coats. if you can try to get the toon off first, if not then just wax the heck out of it. after wax it needs to be inside or covered to keep the shine.

ToonBrite says its for fiberglass, but the name would imply it is better for aluminum. It was at a local shop getting new steering cable where the guy kept it outside while it was in line.

The wax we have is 3M rubbing compound and ultra shine (using a high speed buffer).

I think we are down to the gel coat at this point. My concern is the fiberglass soaking in water, resulting in mildew over time. Any other suggestions?

bummer.

Gel coat and fiberglas wont absorb water and mildew

Your right about the toon-bright for fiberglass, They do make it and they also make one for aluminum. However both is basically a mild acid. You need to compound the boat using a terry cloth pad on a variable speed polisher and make sure the compound does not dry out while you are doing this. I use a windex bottle with water and a few drops of dish soap while I compound the hull. Afterwards I follow up with Carnuba Wax. That is just about the only wax on the market that does not dry white in color. That is what you are seeing now. Toon-bright is in the pores of the metal flake gel coat and is drying white. So you need to start all over with compound, wax, and buy a good cover. Not the plastic tarps but a cotton/deniem/nylon/sunbrella type.

Yes, it will. Sitting in water long enough, water will permeate gelcoat and the mat and roving in the fiberglass layup will absorb it. That's what causes hull blistering and the boat yards make a ton of money fixing them. It's doubtful that a fishing boat would sit in water long enough for it to happen, but it's very common with cruising boats that live in marinas.

Fiberglass will absorb water if exposed to water. It is the coating that is on the glass strands that will wick water. If the mat/strands are wet out with resin properly the glass coating will be dissolved into the resin but this is not always the case.

no no no, do not use rubbing compound on gelcoat, use polishing compound. huge difference in what they do, rubbing will cut the gelcoat quickly and remove it, polishing compound is much finer and will polish not cut.
use some mineral spirits and polishing compound with a random orbit buffer and pressure. you can use a high speed buffer but if you do DO NOT hesitate in any one spot or you risk burning the glass. keep it damp with the mineral spirits (this will not evaporate as fast as water and won't hurt the glass at all). wipe with dry rags between buffing and check for shine, when you get it where you want it wax with carnuba at least 2 times, I do 3 first 2 light and last one fairly heavy. hand rub your wax first 2 coats and you can power buff the last one.

here is a good explanation of the two.

Rubbing Compound
Rubbing compound is a gritty, abrasive product used to remove oxidize paint from a car's finish. It is the strongest compound available.

Polishing Compound
Polishing compound is often used before waxing to eliminate scratches and light oxidation. It is much less abrasive than rubbing compound.



Read more: Difference Between Rubbing and Polishing Compound | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_5595903_difference-between-rubbing-polishing-compound.html#ixzz1wusnY39C