I have a question that has probably been asked 100 times, but, after powder painting the jig head is it necessary to bake or cure them? I know that the bake process makes them more durable . Please give me some feedback.

Thanks

takes too much time that i dont have

Some folks don't, but I fish a lot of rock and concrete.... So yea I cure, hot and long!!!

I was one of the ones that has said it really doesnt make that much difference...

I will stand corrected

I cured a fairly large order of painted jig heads this week,and I failed to completely bust the eyes out of a batch of 50 of em,and yes it does make a difference......Took a couple hours to get em all cleaned and a couple of blisters....

I started out curing and then got lazy and quit doing so. I noticed after a while that the powder was chipping off the jighead I was using, tied on another and seen the same thing happening to it. Seeing this made up my mind to go back to curing all the jigheads I paint.

What really convinced me was this.....



Two of em got a little too close in the oven...If you can bust em loose with your bare hands,,,, there yours.............

Hey Rad, looks like you might be on to something there. What crappie wouldn't want a bigger meal if'n he's hungry. Course they'd be a booger to tie. But two hooks ought to keep him from getting away.

I have had the same thing happen. The paint is much tougher after curing. You will more than likely lose the jig before anything ever happens to the paint.

I have always cured....

I have always cured mine. I have dropped them on the garage floor before they are cured and the PP cracks and chips like glass. I have green trash fish jigs that have been stuck and popped out of rip-rap several times that are not chipped, but if you smack a bridge pillar with them enough time they will start to chip.

I cure all mine as well. If you shoot docks or put a jig throught H3LL then curing them will be best if you want to keep the powder paint on them.

added on accident...My Bad!

what do you bake them at and how long?

Skip put this together a while back........

Dont know that you have to be this exact,but Ive been wrong before

Cure time and Temp for Powder Paint
Recommended Cure Times and Temps From CSI (Component Systems Inc.)
White*- 25 mins. @ 356F
Yellow Chartreuse* - 25 mins @ 356F
Green Chartreuse* -25 mins @ 356F
Blaze Orange* -25 mins @ 356F
Black*- 25 mins @ 356F
Hot Pink*- 25 mins @ 356F
Flame Red* -25 mins @ 356F
White Pearl- 15 mins @ 325F
Clear*- 25 mins @ 356F
Bright Green*- 25 mins @356F
Yellow*- 25 mins @ 356F
Red- 10 mins @ 400F
Purple*- 15 mins @ 356F
Glow Overcoat- 15 mins @ 375F
Brown* -25 mins @ 356F
Blue- 18 mins @ 375F
Silver- 15 mins @ 400F
Gold- 20 mins @ 375F
Watermelon Pepper15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon 15 mins @ 395F
Pumpkin Brown 16 mins @ 395F
Smoke* 25 mins @ 356F
Green Pumpkin* 25 mins @ 356F
Dark Watermelon* 25 mins @ 356F
June Bug Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Root Beer Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Copperhead 15 mins @ 395F
Red Bug 15 mins @ 395F
Ruby Slipper 15 mins @ 395F
Baby Bass Green 15 mins @ 395F
Dragonfly 15 mins @ 395F
Pearl Pepper 15 mins @ 395F
Sapphire Blue 15 mins @ 395F
Black-Blue Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Glitter Topcoat Colors* 25 mins @ 356
All Standard Glow Colors- 15 min @ 375
Transparent Candy Colors* 25 mins @ 356F
Standard Glow Colors 15 mins @ 375F
Super Glow Colors* 26 mins @ 356F

* These colors may also be cured for 10 mins @ 392F to 400F..............
Curing @ higher temperatures increase possibility of excess paint running off, especially in multi-coat applications

Rad what do you think about making this a sticky note of some sort?

Protects website states 15 min @ 350

Would be a good one....I dont have the powers here...Its an older formula,If skip has any updates ,I bet we can get it done......

I have talked to CSI (Pro Tec) many times about this and it has to do with a chemical reaction that happens at a certain temperature and time. It's not going to stay on very well at all without the curing it. It will chip off just being in a box riding around in the boat. The better or I should say closer to their recommendations of temp and time the harder it will be. Also the longer the paint is in the oven the darker the paint will get. Like I see it especially with FL Red and if it's in a little too long it's not near as bright, almost Orange looking, but a little too long and it's a dull reddish brown looking unexciting color.

I have got them to send me temps and time several times as they have changed it over the years.They do allow for if you have a weed guard then it has to be in a longer time at less heat. Not optimal, but works.

Most of their paint color last time gave 2 options with one applying to almost all of them except for Pearl was near 400 degrees, at least 392 for 10 minutes (this means the lead is at that temp for that long, not the jig has been in the oven that long so I add a couple minutes to allow warm up time) is magic as far as the chemical reaction.

Yes I posted the numbers above from a paper I got from them and from talking with them on the phone several times.

Give them a call and you will see they don't even mention the 350. Talk to their Tech guys.

Cure it you wont go wrong. Its hard as a rock.

i always cure mine.
If you forget to clean the eye out first, or if the paint melts down and covers the eye, use a dremel with a matching size drill bit to drill out the eyelet holes. much faster, safer and easier than any other method i have tried.

Bentley

Just wanted to get an idea/share knowledge of what else is everyone is doing to bake their jigs after applying paint. I made a fixture as seen in the photo to prevent nipples on the head. What do you use?



http://texasfishingforum.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/6534958/1

Them littl jig holder are nice, but costly and take a lot of room when I do a lot of heads.
So I don't care for them. I keep a little container of tooth picks already used for clearing eyes when I paint. I dip the head after heated and the stick a tooth pick in the eye. Some of them I have even whittled down to be sharper for small
Hooks. I usually wipe the side of the eye on the tooth pick after sticking it in the eye to get a little more off.
If by chance I still didn't get enough paint out and during the cure it fills again I keep a thin wire bodkin just for this handy as I tie. When I run into a eye that is too closed I heat my trusty bodkin with a bic lighter about 7 or 8 seconds and stick it in the eye from both sides and it will melt the paint out. Then I can clean it up with my thumb nail for a nice open eye!

Yes I take a little linger doing this, but I feel sure my customers appreciate it!

Forgot one little thing. If I have one that is being a pain cleaning after Ielt it mostly out I will use one of the little wire cleaners people use on a torch!

Skip

We do!

RTL, I used a roasting rack for a time, but at some point I went to Lowe's and found some wire gutter guards. I cut them to the length of a oven pan I use in the oven for painting. Then I just did a little re-shaping of the wire guard to it has somewhat a flat bottom and the sides that come up far enough so the heads don't touch the tray it's sitting on. I lean the side out just a little so the jig heads don't touch the wire. I also only use every other hole or space in the top of the wire sides to keep them from swinging into each other. I can put 3 of these racks on a metal cooking sheet I use that is covered with foil just incase. That means I can load both sides of the 3 and have something over 120 jigs in the oven at once. I have not counted lately so don't remember what a full load is.

Hope this helps and will try to get a pic today to post here.

Thanks Bobby!

Okay let me add a few things since I remembered when I looked at it again. I did bend the top of each side out so the jigs can hang right and I hang the hooks in the indent and not the outer hole. I also had some pieces of tile I kept from when I had some of replace carpet in my home. I just kept all the scraps as you never know when you have a use for something like this. I put the strips of tile in to add weight to keep each rack more stable.

To make it more clear looking at the side/top view I hang the hooks in the second row of holes from the outside. Hope that is clear.

Okay so here are the pics....

Side/top view


end view

Now this is what I use to hang jigs on after they are tied.

This first one is actually to my left and you can see my other 2 Vises in this picture. This is where I hang my jigs I take pics of or ones I tied to just see or give as samples. Sometimes if I tie the wrong size of color or what ever mistake.


This one you can see my main vise and part of my tying station. The big white rack on the left is where i hang jigs I am tying for an order. I also keep some of the bobbins I don't have room for in the normal spot and all these are FL Wool Yarn.

Always bake afterwards. Makes them very durable.

man skip thats a nice setup

I built a small upright like a goal post with curtain hooks that my girlfriend uses for tie back. And tied 60lb test from one to another. and hang my jigs on that to dry.

I've always cured mine.


Okay, dumb question here because I got my wrist slapped last time on this topic. What do you cure the jigs in? I used the oven at home but was told not to because of the possibility of lead poisoning. What do you guys/girls use?

I use a toaster Oven To cure mine, would never use the kitchen oven.

I use a toaster oven too.

Thanks! I'm glad I don't own that oven anymore....

I hold the head by the hook eye when dipping into the powder paint so there's no paint to clean out.

I am with Longhorn
I use forceps

I use to use a small toaster over. I make slabs so the toaster oven was to small. I pick up a used electric oven on carigs list for $50.00 works great. No I would not use the wife's oven that would result in the big D word.

I use a fluid base to dip the jigs and slab but still get paint in the eyes.

I baked my first jig heads tonight. I did it in the oven, muahahaha. I forgot to clean the eyes first, man those things were tough as nails to get out. I finally managed to gouge them out with an old x-acto knife I found. That worked pretty well.

Thanks for the info about curing the painted jigs. I did some painting this morning after going to Lowe's and buying a $2 paint can roller/brush thing-a-ma-jig. I bent the ends to fit onto my toaster oven pan and then started painting. After dipping and heating them, I placed them on the under side of the now, curing tray. When I was done, I just slid the whole thing into the oven. It seems to work quite well!

One question though. The blaze orange heads turned this awful burnt orange color....kinda making them useless. How do I avoid this?

Anyway, thought I'd share this "tray" deal (if the pics work).

looks good, should work well as a oven rack. How are you heating your jigheads. it looks like the blaze got too hot?

I heated them all over a heat gun, on low.

did they look good before you cured them? what was your oven temp/cure time?

Yep, they looked okay...nothing like what you can buy, though. I put all of 'em in the oven for 25 minutes at about 360...like the previous post suggested. Maybe too long. I'll have to experiment with the time/temp.

Possibly too long, try reducing your preheat time in 1/2 before painting, and see if that's makes a difference.

And you might lower that cure temp to 250 for 20-25 minutes. I think that will still work OK.

Okay, thanks guys. I went and took them outside in the sun and they aren't as bad as they looked in the garage.

Now, if my last order from Crazy will just get here....

When I stuck mine in the oven they started to drip and now the heads have little points on them from the paint. Should I just leave it or sand it off and re-dip it?

I haven't been doing this long, but I'm guessing you had too much paint on the heads. I had a couple do that and I just snipped them off, but they were pretty long. On the shorter ones, I left 'em as is cause they look like little fishies! As long as they don't look like they're related to Pinocchio where they get hung up more, I'd leave 'em with the nose.

If its just for you I say fish em...

Probably a little too much paint,but also a too hot or too long a bake will do it...

I still dip all my heads and know they are heavy,but dont get the drips with a little shorter bake period..

Thanks for the info

Finally got to tinker with a couple of new colors from the Rosey's purchase.First color I played with was their Red-Lilac...

Looks pretty good straight from the jar.


After an addition of some clear and glitter..


Just a couple of possibilities for some multi color:
Never could get the camera to capture the tru color of the tails...Not near this blue.






Next up was the Caribbean blue


Wish I had left the red glitter out of this one...Working on batch # 2


Still did ok as a multi..



No wise cracks about the cone heads,,I think they were poured that way

Nice ties & colors, where are you getting your Material?

Them last to Oh ya like the colors of the paint and all

RadTexan:
What jig mold is that? I have quite a few molds, but I don't have one with the recessed eyes...
Is it this one?

Nice

Nice

How do you do your two tone colors so well? I don't have a good technique for that.

Who carries the clear powder locally? So that I can run out and get it and not have to order online and wait for it?

Check out barlows. If not then crazy angler and you'll have it in a couple of days. Some of the fastest shipping I've ever had.

What is a good brand of clear coat I can use on my Slabs? I do use a stick on tape sometimes?
Thanks

TTT

What are you trying to clear coat Bernie.Most of us use a clear powder paint to thin our colors or use it to add glitter to the mix.

If just trying to top coat your slabs with a clear any brand will do fine,,,,,but keep in mind it does need to be heated and cured as any PP,so it could affect your tape or decals...

Be happy to send you some if you want to experiment with it.

Or, if you just want a clear, hard top-coat, you could try Sally Henson's Hard as Nails. I top coat all my jigs with eyes like that, mainly to seal the eyes.

A couple notes for you, first I wish I had told you sooner about if the eye is full of paint after baking, I use a bodkin with a skinny needle and I heat the point pretty good and stick that through the eye melting the paint to make a hole. Works great and clean a little after with my thumb nail or a small file like used to clean torch tips and such.
Also I finally took my toaster oven and check the tems with an over thermometer and found it was off to the low side so I started setting it at about 425 which in mine ends up being about 390 something so then I went back to 16 minutes which gives the oven time to heat up some before it gets to the 15 minutes I use now.

I do this when I am about to tie the jig, don't waste time doing al them separate before you are going to use it to tie.

Hope this helps everyone!

Only problem I find with this is on 2 colors, FL Yellow and FL Green Chart and that fingernail polish will change these 2 so I use Clear Vinly on these and no color change and actually works great, but doesn't dry as fast!

As for the eyes I have started glueing them on with Locktite brush on super glue and use the brush to just put a small amount on and seems to work great!

Here's what Pepop inspired me to make to keep from getting parrot nose.





I can cure 48 at a time. Works pretty good. Cost about $30, but I already had the stainless. Well, almost $50, since I went through about 6 jigsaw blades!

2 New Colors & a new Look!
Got an order from Rosey's yesterday with 2 new color's and some more of 1 I was low on. The new; Light Orchid Metallic I think will go good with Skip's new Rosey Red chenille and the Dark Green Metallic (sorry, just looks black in the picture)is just that, a REAL DARK green with a Metallic luster. I think it'll do better as a Transparent or "Candy" Dark Green with a little mixed with the new 200% Gloss Glass Clear I also got. The other color is Pearlescent White which I LOVE and I mixed some of Sac-Lait-Pat's "Firecracker" glitter with the new clear and used as an over-coat.

Pepop's Light Orchid Metalic mixed 1:1:1 with candy pink and clear.

For some reason can't get picture to post. [img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u654/jbersuch/DSC03775_zps70b84ba0.jpg?t=1383628359[/img]

Pearlescent White 1:1 with candy blue.

I've been having the same problem for a while and everytime I try and cure I get the same results.

I have learned to use as little paint as possible to make a good cover. I use a heat gun and keep testing where you keep the head in the heat just long enough to make the powder paint melt when dipped. On my heat gun it works best for me using 10 seconds each side and dip.

I also found using jig clamps like TJ's sells keeps the excess to run down the shaft and you can take a knife and cut right behind the head to cut off the excess. I am curing 60 jigs at a time now and usually only get 1 - 2 jigs with too much powder paint on them with a small run. It does take practice to get the right heat and paint amount. I preheat my toaster oven to 350 degrees and put the jigs in for 20 minutes which is what TJ's recommends and it seems to be a good combination.

I got some super glow green from Barlows,I thought it would turn out the same color as the powder but it came out super dark green.The powder is real light green.I heated my jigs with a candle.Does anyone know what happend?

Candle might have made it somewhat darker, but the glow green in protech is a deep hunter green and not the color of the powder.

Yep you can't go just by the color of the dry powder after heating it its going to be darker for the most part. Exception's would be the lighter colors such as white, pink and yellows.

How expensive is the powder coatings you guys use? I'm just curious because I am a paint chemist that formulates powder coatings and I am curious. Since seeing this forum I have been thinking I could help some of you guys out with powder coatings. In our factory we are on pace to produce about 18 million pounds of powder this year. We have samples of powder used for quality control that are probably 1/2 lb. or more and they often just get thrown away. I'm just wondering if anyone would be interested in getting some free powder to use for jig heads? I really don't want to charge anything for the samples but I'd be happy to pick some interesting colors and give them to someone to try. I live in the Denton area and would be happy to meet you somewhere to deliver some powder. If anyone is interested, just give me a pm and I will try to find some samples. I am not looking to make this a business venture so I will not be taking orders or charging for the powder, I just thought I could help some folks save a little money and maybe let them try some different colors without having to invest in untested colors.

Awesome offer man. Our pp runs from 7-8 bucks for 2 oz contIners with #'s between 10-20.00 $

1/2 # will go a long ways painting jig heads. Couple oz containers will last year or two, and I paint a lot. Im sure lots of folks here could use some samples. I'd sure be happy to pay any postage or costs if you have any florecent or candy type colors.

Ditto

Ditto for me, just PM me with details and I would be glad to pay for any shipping charges to get some.

Already sent pm. 2oz samples are more than enough. I have about 25 lbs of various colors, if anyone wants to trade colors.

Sorry, but I really don't want to mail or ship any powder. I don't want to deal with various safety and environmental issues involved. Even though it is only a small quantity, you can still get in trouble.

I have a question for you guy's. I just started and learning how to power paint jigs. The problem I am having is keeping the pain out of the eye's. I have tried poking it out with a wire after you dip it but the paint just pulls back into the eye when I pull the wire out. Help please what am I doing wrong. The jig heads look great it's just the eye problem. Thanks

Hold the jigeye with hemostats then dip...

Thanks but doesn't the paint get on your hemostats?

Yes it does, but can easily be removed. I just have a small pair of pliers that I open the hemostats, grab and end with the pliers and slighty twist. The paint comps right off since it is not cured. Easy peasy. Usually do this in between colors.

Handy Tool for at the home or on the boat.


Do A google on " Eye buster tool"

Or "Jig Buster Tool"

I think the easiest way is to hold by the hook, dip in fluid bed, and punch it out with a pair of cheap dentist tools from Harbour Freight before baking.

Well we all have our ways of doing this LOL and for me Id like to use the dentist tools but its like tying on the line I CANT SEE it lol. I have to put on readers to poke at them eyes. Thats why I use the forceps to cover the eye when dipping. If the paint is not in the eye for the first place then all good and that works for my 97% of the time.
I can dip a jig and go to baking with out digging out the eye.
Now after baking then I may have to brake out the eye.


OH WAIT I DONT BAKE MY own jigs. Have no need to I don't sell them and for the most part I lose them before the paint is gone and that is after days of use in a lake.
Now fishing a river for say sand bass yes the paint will chip but I find with paint or without the fish still hit it.

A Big Brown Truck left this at my front door Thursday.

I may fire it up this evening or tomorrow. Squeaky left a couple molds with me so I could break it in.

Nice pot Pepop. Did you get to use it yet?




I use the hemostats too and have found that I was getting stringers from around the eye area that would sometimes block the eye after baking. Process was clamp hemostats on eyelet, heat head, dip in paint and then reheat head to set the paint before baking and this was when I would get the stringers. Now after I dip in the powder paint I move the hemostats to the bend of the hook before I reheat the jig and I haven't had a stringer since. Also, less paint on the hemostats to break off. Hope this helps someone down the road.

No, not yet! The day after I got it, I found out a rehab hospital accepted my wife for inpatient therapy so I had to gut busy gathering & packing clothes & such. I don't know when I'll get to try it. I did just get my second mold off Ebay though.

Hey, Sqeaky, sound like you are quite busy. I'm back home as of late Saturday, been in FW for my Daughter"s back surgery. Them Hospital days get tough, but it's my Daughter and no problems. Surgery good and she is home recovering.

Saw your post about dropping out of the Jig swap #29. I am trying tonight to get jigs in the mail by Monday. Time permitting maybe we can fish Palestine when you are home.

Be safe while working on the Boat...

roy

Congrats!!! Knew I would not be long before you got a Lee. From my own experience with bass fishing, I got involved in all component making.. Enjoyed all of it. Best of luck and our prayers for You and Sue... Holler if I can help.

I left some powdered paint in my car. The powder turned into a smaller rock. Are they ruined, or do you think I can fix them with a mortar and pestal?

You can try it. I left a jar I bought on my lunch break in my car and it did the same thing. I tried breaking it all up, but mine didn't turn out too well. It was still pretty clumpy. I took it back.

Mortar and pestle actually worked! My wife insists that I tell everyone not to do this in the kitchen and also not to use your wife's flour sifter.

Before


After

Tx, just looking at the photo, it looks like you might want to continue the "pulverizing" process. Just MHO. If you look at new powder, it's just that, powder, like flour. I could be wrong because of monitor res or old eyes but yours looks more like cornmeal. You might also try cutting in some clear to help it "Flow" in your cup. It'll probably still work as is but it may go on pretty heavy.}

I do believe you are right. I was so happy to have "fixed" the problem I didn't realize it. That is clear powder in the picture. I found a local powder coating company that offered to trade me powder paint for a few jigs.

Would anyone care to tell me how to paint the two tone jig heads? I'm pretty sure you're not using a fluid bath for this style.

I have done a few. I just paint one color and tap a brush with the other.

And this is much easier

I cure whenever possible, It helps with gloss and durability just make sure your eyes are clear before curing else you will be cursing

what a great thread!!!!!!!

Quick question tho, for crappie jigs, cant i just buy the jig part, then paint it and decorate it like i want to?

Sure you can. There are many vendors on this site as well as ebay that sell raw jig heads.

I saw a guy paint a jig head and use a heat gun to dry the paint with. Is that a decent way of doing it?

He was probably powder coating the jig head. That's how most of the tyers paint their head.

Tx, the easiest way to get the "Blended" two tone look is by brush tapping a 2nd color over a solid color 1st coat. This YouTube video is the one I learned by
http://youtu.be/g1TPCZqXrRY
If you want a more "Crisp" division between 2 colors, I dip jig completely in 1 color then dip a portion of the jig in the 2nd color. This is the best example I could put my hand on..

I get my tying kit in tomorrow or so and am really excited about learning to tie jigs. Hopefully i can figure out how to post a pic on here when i get a few jigs made. I would love to have some of you pro's comment on what i need to do differently.

When adding glitter and/or micca powders to clear powder paint, can it still be oven cured?

yes

Search out Fluid Beds, I use them for many colors.

will Always cure just my pref

Can anyone give me any tips on the pumkin brown powder coat. It runs when I cure it in the oven. I've tried lower temp, shorter time, lighter coats on the jig head. I've baked around 10 colors and have had no problems with any other color.

QUESTION..I BOUGHT UV BLAST FROM CRAZY ANGLER, WOULD I ADD THIS TO THE COLOR I AM GOING TO POWDER COAT WITH OR DO THAT AS AN ADDITIONAL COAT AFTER DIP AND COAT

I always use it as a second coat, as its clear all it really adds in the visible range is a clear coat bit glows great in UV.

Has anyone used Spike-it brand powder coat. My local Academy had 2oz containers on clearance for .68 and I purchased all they had. I spent less than $10 so it is no biggie to me.

Reggie

When applying UV Blast as a top coat should the curing process be done for the final step and what is the cure time and temp for it?

Hey you just dip in that after the color and cure at same time and I cure at same temp as the color on mine. It's just like a clear coat.

Skip

I do not use that color, but I also know some colors seem not need the lead to have been in the fire as long as another one. So ones I know are prone to get too much paint on, I just hold in the fire a little less time and seems to work fine for me. I do not change my heat or time in over ever unless I am using Pearl White which demands a lower temp! I keep my temp between 390 and 400 and have actually put a thermometer in my toaster oven so I would know where it has to be set to reach the themes I want. If I use my large oven then I just use it's settings, but the small ovens are usually not accurate on temps. So I also know if I take a load out and put a new load in it's cooled and will take almost 2 minutes to reach temp so I cure for 17 minutes as I need 15 minutes with the lead at themes as that is what that means, the lead need to be at that temp to cure right.

So for that color I would just find how long I need leave it in the fire/heat to determine the right amount of paint so it downs drip! Way back when I started I seemed to always have trouble with Black dripping so finally I just adjusted the length of time in the fire and a 2 count. I count not by real seconds, but more just my cadence.

Skip

Thanks Skip I just now saw your reply.

do have to hang them in the oven, how do you do it?

I have always cured mine and I believe in it. I don't want to go through the process of heating lead and paint any more than I have to so may as well do it right the first time. If you bother to take enough time to use powder paint then use the extra time to help seal the deal with curing. It's worth it as others have said for dock shooting and bouncing off rocks, etc.

Toaster oven at a garage sale and around 350 for most just depends on the color and the manufacturer. I have used black from one manufacturer and it ran at 275 and anther I could get away with 350 in the same color. Get to know your toaster oven as Skip has said with a thermometer to know what is truly going on.

After trying nearly 10 different colors I have found that I actually prefer an unpainted jig head. I get more bites with it...or so I feel like I do. Maybe I should try silver and see if I like that. Anybody else just use an unpainted jig head?

Just saw this. I use unpainted heads 95% of the time and probably 80% of my sales are unpainted. I think it's a confidence thing more than anything else. That's just my opinion.