I've got a 1995 P2 Classic with a 200 Merc EFI. I have dialed it in and it will run 72 on GPS. But, you must know how to drive a cat at that speed. Most people will not get more than 67-68 out of it.

It is one of the best performing 19 foot boats on the water. Just make sure it is a sound hull and doesn't have any cracking on the bottom. Their hulls are a little thinner due to the way they are built, and can crack if idled over a big stump.

Does that apply to all Bass Cat boats or just to the Classic? It seems to me that if they had thin hulls that were easy to crack then people wouldn't be so high on them.

Michael,

I don't speak from personal experience here, but from everything I've heard, the BassCat hull is one of the strongest and has the best integrity due to the process and resin they use. Similar in strength to Ranger.

One of the misconceptions of boat construction.

Thick=Strong...

What makes a hull strong isn't the thickness, it's the density. Steel plate isn't thick, but it's dense. Plywood is thicker, but less dense.

Pat and Michael,

Sorry for the vague post. I know the difference, as I've worked in composites before. I guess the question I should have asked is if the BassCat line is truly more prone to cracking due to stress points than other brands (i.e. stumps)? Also, what brands are good for this condition and which ones are bad? I've always heard the BassCats are great when it comes to the stresses imparted by stumps, but I would figure Michael working in the industry is going to know for sure. Can you guys provide a little more insight and give a reference point (i.e. another boat brand for comparison) if you could. It would certainly be appreciated. Thanks.

My experience with stumps and hulls.

I think hull design plays a big part, and your deeper v'd boats like champs and cats slide around them more than the flatter hulls which pound the stumps harder.

The rigity of the cat hull makes them much less prone to cracking under pressure than a hull which will flex when stressed.

i can dream, cant i?

I have a 150 on a 17' kingfisher. It runs about 60 or so with me in it all by my self, but as soon as anyone else hopps in everything that was good goes to worse. A bigger engine would be awsome.

I say if you can drive it then drive it, just know that the actual speed your friend is going is nothing close to real true speed(gps or radar).My boat will show 84 on the spedo. but gps ony 76. Big difference!

Shane - Do not under power or over power any boat you buy. If it calls for a 175hp max you can get away with a 150hp and be happy. The rule of thumb is to go with the max HP or 25hp below never lower than that. There is a minimum and maximum rating on the coast guard plate on the boat. If you overpower and run over somebody you may have more problems than being illegal fishing some T. I do not think insurance companies will honor a claim on an overpowered boat either. If you power it at the bottom end of the rating you will be disappointed with the performance but it will still work. 95mph (probably even 65mph)is too fast for Joe Q public to be going on the water. The lakes are to crowded and most can not even handle a car at those speeds. BTW cast doubt on anybody giving you speeds off a water pick up speedo. GPS is the only really reliable measure.

Just remember, if you get a boat that will go 60 mph, you will want to go 65 mph. If your boat will go 70 mph, you will want to go 75 mph. Not sure why, I think it is a "guy thing". Good luck with your purchase.