Hello everyone. I am new here, so please bare with me. A friend told me about this site, and suggested I join the forum to help with engine problems, or service questions. I'll help if I can, and may take in a few side jobs at home. I have over 10 years experiance.
Hope I can help ya'll keep those motors running well, cause the fish are starting to bite !!!
Please e-mail me for my phone number, if you need to speak to me.

Capjun,
Welcome
Thanks for the offer
We ALL need help at times

Hooker

Welcome to the best place in Texas to talk fishing, Capjun!! Also, go to the Open Freshwater Discussion area and introduce yourself. Many people will post their questions there, cause it gets more traffic..

Welcome Capjun, It's alway's nice to have someone like you around. Don't be shy, just jump right in there. Skip

Do you work on Nissan outboards? I have a 70 that needs a tune up and has a broken socket on the linkage rod to the carburators.
I live near Ridgmar. Shoot me an e-mail.

Capjun,

You are going to be very busy, indeed.

My question is about steering cables. I replaced mine about four years ago and it is becoming difficult to turn again. Do you think it would be worth the money to install a hydrolic unit this time? Are these units any more difficult to install than the cable types? The boat is an 17'aluminum with a 90 Mariner. Yes, I plan on keeping the boat several more years.

Thanks,
Don

I've got a 1995 Johnson 150 fastrike that runs well but looses prime when I stop to fish. I bought the motor used last year and I'm happy with everything but that. I've changed the bulb and fuel line from the tank to the motor. I put a new VRO in when I first got the motor, and I've changed the fuel filter. When out on the water if I pump the bulb after an hour of fishing it starts great. Any suggestions?
Accidentally put this on its own topic but really wanted it as a reply here.

Hey Dan, The worst thing you can do to a boat, is to let it set up without using it. That's in a perfect world, Right ! You must keep the cables clean and greased. You should also, At least twice a month, Move the cables, or steering wheel, from lock to lock several times. This action pumps the grease,(you just applied), up the to displace the water you picked up the last time it was on the lake. At least that's what I recommend, and have had alot less problems from cable failures.
Hydralic steering is expensive, but well worth it. The Seastar kit retails for about $800.00 to $900.00, and takes me about 3.0 to 4.0 hrs to remove the old system, and install the new system.Sometimes it takes more, or less time depending on how the boat is built, and set up. Filling, and bleeding the system, is sometimes a two man job.

By the way, Hydralic steering is safer, and is what all new boats come standard with.

Sounds like either the needles in the c arburetors are not seating properly, and may be leaking inside the intake, or you may be sucking air from one of the connections along the fuel line. Also if you tilt the engine up while fishing, this might cause the same thing

I have a 1999 nitro 882 and the steering is starting to get hard to turn, is there a way to grease the cables??

Hey Tom, No really good way to grease them. The best you can do, is turn the motor to the right, clean and grease the exposed shaft. Then remove the cables from the helm, under the dash, and grease that part.
The reason they get stiff, is when your on the water,starting and stoping, the cables tend get soaked. Then when you turn to the left, ANY water on the cables, gets forced up into the outter jacket. Then when you leave it sit until you use it again, it rusts. Over time that little rust builds making the cables stiff, and sooner or later, they lock up.
The only way I know to prevent this, is to clean and grease them regularly, and twice a month turn the wheel back and forth several times. However, there's no guaranty, It seems to work for me !

Here are all my post on my problem.

94 90hp Force by Merc. Its starts perfect. Runs as smooth as a new Lexus. I can drive it for 30 - 45 minutes. Kill it. Start it & troll for 30 minutes. Then when I go to take off BWAAAAAAAA it dies. Some times it does it right off the trailer. I can hit the choke when it starts to die and it picks up and runs good. I have rebuilt the fuel pump. Replaced everything from the tank fittings all the way to the pump. The bulb was good and hard when it was bogging down. It also has new plugs. CARB PROBLEM ? What do ya think ? This thing is either going to get fixed,drive me to drink, (never mind I already do) or end up at the bottom of some lake !!!! Any suggestions ?

OK ! I removed and cleaned all 3 carbs using berrymans carb cleaner. I didnt have a compressor for air so I couldnt really blow them out good. The top two looked fine. I got to the bottom one and there was some debris in it. Looked kinda like the inside of the rubber fuel line. Is this supposed to have the grey marine fuel line or just regular black fuel line ? Ive heard that regular automotive fuel line breaks down due to the mixture of 2 cycle oil and gas. Is that true ? I am going to replace it all with the good marine stuff. I sure hope this is the last time I have to work on it for a while.

It only does it on take off and like trying to run at low speeds like 3-10 mph. Once I hit the choke and get past the bogging it never has a problem.

I removed a jet from the top part of the carb and there is one more that is in the bottom comming up and there is a rod that runs down thru it. I couldnt remove this jet to check it due to the rod sticking thru it. Any suggestions ?

Welcome Capjun
I have a over heating problem on a inboard OMC chevy 4 cyl. only at idle it gets hot. I changed the thermostat and still gets hot I can run it all day above idle and it is fine..any Ideas?
Thanks DH

This guy is gonna need his own section!
But its great to have him on the TFF!