Ran into a problem this past weekend while flipping grass mats, I broke off 6 to 7 times either on on hook set or while pulling the fish up. Saturday I was using 20lb fluoro, Sunday I switched to 65lb braid. I started looking at my line on Sunday and noticed the weight is fraying the lines. I am using a bobber stopper to peg the weight down. Left a lot of tungsten in the lake this weekend Wondering if anyone else has run into this? And I definately need to change how I am rigging up my heavy flipping rig. Any Ideas?

The brand of weight you are using can make a big difference. Stick to Tru-tungsten if you can find them. Strike King are a close second. The edges a bevelled. Some tungsten weights do not do this and will cut your line like a knife, braid or not.

When I use bigger than 15lb Fluro, the bobber stoppers always fray the line. I just go to Braid which I prefer for reeds or grass anyway.

I have thought about using a pegging system, but dont know if this would hold the weight down.

Is there a specific type of Bobber Stopper that is a little bigger I.D. for the heavier flouro?

My issues were mostly with tru tungsten weights, I did this also with an XPS tungsten too. I am thinking about changing to the rubber pegs, cause the bobber stopper does move.

I do use bobber stoppers on a lot of my rigs, cr rigs with heavy weight, never had an issue like I did this weekend.

Agree with bullet on the inspection. Check the entrance and exit points for the line on the weights. Use insert free weights, Fish-Strong weights are also bevelled and insert free.

The rubber peg-its work better than anything. You can also use skirt strands by looping some line and pulling the strands back through the weight. Both work excellent and will not fray your line.

I don't know then. I've flipped alot of grass using a 1 to 1 1/4 oz tru-tungsten and not had any issues with 65 lb braid. Are you using Power-Pro?

Could be your guides on your rod fraying your line also. I would check each one close.

Guess that is possible that I may have a bad guide, I'll check that tonight. But it was breaking an inch after the hook. I just got back from flipping grass beds in the basin on that same rod and setup, caught a lot on that setup using the fluro. I was not using power pro this time, I usually use it, I think I was using some excel braid.

Why play around when you're punching hydrilla anyways? I'd go with at least 65 lb braid -- looking for reaction bites so I'm not worried about visibility.

This^^ all it takes is a small Sharp edge.

You can tell if your line is breaking from your guides or closer to your bait because of the knot or the weight. When you set the hook do you have line still in the water or is your line in the rod?

Every once in a while you will find a bad weight. I mainly use tru tungstend and started to use strike king and vike weights. 90% of the time you dont have a problem but you will get one every once in a while that has a bad finish or a nick that roughs up the line. The only pegging system that i have found that messes up your line is the rubber pieces that you run in between the line and the weight like a tooth pick.

Aaron Martens has a cure for the tungsten he runs a piece of heat shrink tube in them. Says it wont crack, break or rough up.

Real question bmcd is where did u find grass to punch at? Raven?

I thought most of the companies making tungsten were claiming the holes were bored smooth