WillieFindum here,
First off, I am not compensated by this company in any way. www.nonslipcoating.com Durabak website
I, like many of you, was tired of wet carpet that took days to dry, stained and had to be replaced every 3 or 4 years.
So, I took the plunge this Augest. I have a '89 17' cajun pro. 1 gal of light grey Durabak was enough for 2 coats on the lids, front and back decks and 3 coats on most of the cockpit floor. I removed all the lids and did them separate. Xylene is the thinner and all surfaces must be wiped down with it to remove any wax, oil or other residue. Glossy surfaces need to be scuffed. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to roll on the material, prep time is as long as it takes. 1 1/2 hours between 1st and 2nd coat.
The material seems to be self leveling. Regular foot traffic in about 4 hours, full cure in about 4 days. I did notice that I could still smell the xylene after 2 wks.
If anyone has any questions e mail, I will try to help.
P.S. No, I don't have pictures, and yes, we will all know that you are illiterate if you ask for pictures since I said I don't have any.

was that really "www.nonslipcoaring.com" or www.nonslipcoating.com? Couldn't get yours to come up.

I am in the process of prepping my deck and gunwales on my 18.5CC for white Durabak. Where do I get Xylene?

ranger3, WillieFindum here,
Thanks for the correction. It is "coating" not coaring. I guess I will have to fire my proof reader. I will make the correction.

Kat-man-do,
Xylene is available any where they sell paint. Home Depot, Loews, Sherman Williams, etc. Xylene does not leave a residue like other thinners.
Shipping time is about a week. Mine took about 2 weeks, it was on back order.
This job is easier with four hands, my fishing partner had "honey do's" the week I was preping and painting.

sounds pretty good did it turn out did it turn out good i wish you had pics but i know you said you did not how many gallons did it take you to do yours and have you tried it i the bed of a truck before was thinking of trying it in the wifes truck so much cheaper than taking some where and having it done did you spray it in or roll it sorry for all the questions it sounds so easy to do i wantto get all the info i can so i might try it thanks alot for the info

Hey Willie,

I have been prepping the deck yesterday and today. I have ordered 1 gallon of the white Durabak. My deck has alot of fiberglass patch type work on it where the seems have been reinforced. Will that affect the install? I have been sanding things level with an orbital sander and varying grit sizes. I also used Acetone to remove some glue. I can't really discern the glue from the fiberglass resin. The acetone doesn't seem to affect the resin, but it does soften the glue.

My hatch on the front deck used carpeting to make a tight seal. Will the Durabak make a tight seal as well, as far as not allowing the lid to bounce around?

Morning Guys, WillieFindum here,
I didn't take pics because they don't show the detail. There is a pic, if you do a search in Boat & Motors for Durabak there have been previous topics, click on the "Line-x or Durabak" there is a pic of a CC from San Antonio and I think you will see what I mean.

rnjsharp, read 1st post carefully
1) One gal
2) roll, in sharp corners, I used a brush to dab it where the roller would not reach.
3) In my area Auto Zone, Northern Tool & Supply and Tractor Supply carry a product called Herculiner. From the tech data, appears to to be about the same as Durabak but only comes in black. I am going to try this in the bilge of my boat. Should work in PU bed if black is Ok.

Kat-man-do,
1) I would feather the edges on the patches but not sand them down, may be re enforcemnt. I had some uneven edges on my cockpit floor where I had glass patched, can't tell their there.
2) Acetone won't affect the glass but will soften the glue, Xylene will work the same as acetone, but is a little slower drying, and since you will need to wipe everything down with Xylene, I would use that.
3) The Durabak two coats(29-39 mils)is not as thick as carpet. So if the tightness of the fit keeps the hatch from bouncing you may end up needing a latch on the hatch. I would wait and see the out come, just thinking about it I don't see that a hatch should bounce, then I could be wrong.