I've broke 20# Invisix many times on a short line. Don't think I have broke it on a medium or long cast. It's a terrible line to flip with. 25# Invisix will not brake! Thus I use this...

Yep

I tied the SD jam knot a couple tournaments ago and it popped the first hookset. Went back to the palomar and no more troubles. Tie it carefully with lots of lube. Make sure no crossing at the eye. Big game is good ole fashioned tough but I think I get more bites with the invisix, which is good in a tournament.

Tried mono and fluoro, but braid is the deal for C-rigs. I use 50# Power Pro, but know guys that use 65# and 80#. The feel is so much better.

Whew! Here goes....

(I�ll get to knots in a bit.)

Big Game, and InvizX are quite different lines. Big Game is formulated for fishing for Big Game fish in saltwater. SURPRISE!

So, because of this Big Game has a lot of stretch to it. When a true big game fish hits a lure/bait it tends to be really hauling. This requires a line that handles shock very well. One way of handling this shock is for the line to be highly elastic, and act as a long bungie cord which slows down the big game fish as it stretches. Big Game has earned a solid reputation as a tough line in part because of it�s high elasticity.

Fluorocarbon was originally used only as a leader. So in salt water big game fishing it relied on the elasticity of the main line as a shock absorber. The bass fishing market really only opened up after fluorocarbon became less stiff, thus allowing it to be used as an angler�s main line rather than just as a leader. This means that there is no stretchy main line to absorb the shock of a stump pullin� hook set. Folks that have HARD hook sets likely need to go with a rod with less power so that the rod will flex on their HARD hook set. This flexibility of the rod will then act as the shock absorber.

The reason that folks use braids in 50 pound test rather than 20 pound test is that braid has hardly any stretch, and is thus highly prone to snap under a high speed loading (high impact loading).

The stiffness of fluoro is also problematic when it comes to knots. Knots that work excellently with mono, or copolymer lines don�t necessarily work so good with fluoros because they are not as limber/limp as monos/copolys. You have to alter you knot tying with fluoros in order to get maximum knot strength.

There�s a modified version of the double Heiliger* Knot that Shaw Grigsby uses that looks to be good. I�m in the process of examining the use of the double Heiligar Knot with only three wraps to see if it will solve my knot issues with fluorocarbon line.

*The Heiligar knot also is known as the San Diego Jam knot, or the reverse clinch knot.


TFP

Seaguar is no longer making Carbon Pro. InvizX is it�s replacement.


TFP

I had just the opposite, palomar broke jam never breaks.

My 2 cents. I am a Seaguar Red lable guy, I bought some of the invisx, I am now going back to Academy to get the red lable. While fishing the last two times, I have had some really bad spots in the line. Seagua has the best carbon line made!

I got some 20 red label line too. have not spooled it on yet tho. Is the red label still invisible since its floro? I really have a hard time breaking my 20 lb seaguar, getting hung up its a battle to break the line. I like the invizx but its so darn expensive thats why Im trying out the red label.

I will for sure stick to the red lable! It is invisible in the water and yes very hard to break!

Change to 100% trilene, its better, Invisx likes to get the chalky look very quick. Also use the correct know, I use the improved cinch, and spit all over it before u cinch down-SLOWLY