Guys, My boat is a Silver Nitro with a blue and dark gray metal flake on the deck. The previous owner apparently let the boat sit out unprotected because the top deck all the way around has a yellowing tint to it.

I took the boat to a boat fiberglass shop where they hit a spot with a sanding DA machine, compounded and buff it and the yellowing is still there.

The fiberglass shop tells me the oxidation is actually inside the gel coat. They say what happens with metal flake is the sun actually cooks the gel coat, then the metal flake reflects the rays back out, cooking the gel coat again and as result there is no way to get the yellowing out unless we re-shoot the gel coat....which I AM NOT DOING.

Does anyone else have any similar history and proven solutions?I am hoping there is a chemical or process out there that can safely penetrate the gel coat and remove the oxidation.

help help
E

Unfourtunately he's right. If it's already yellow your too late to save it. When one is just oxidized you can wet sand with fine grit sandpaper and use a buffer and rubbing compound and get it back.That's the difference in different manufacturer's clear coat is how thick it is,quality,protective qualities etc..everyone's is different. Nitro being a entry level boat(most models) they cut corners and don't use the best clear coat formula. I used to have a Nitro and mine done the same. My advice would be to wrap it if it bothers you that much.

Most metalflake boats with oxidized gel coat can be restored through wet-sanding, compound, polishing, and waxing. Follow this guide. You can do a small test spot and see if you can restore the shine.

http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=311487

I just bought a boat that I was REALLY worried about (gel-coat). The gel-coat wasn't yellowing, but it was some pretty bad oxidation. I followed the instructions Blu-Ranger posted and I'll be danged if it didn't fix the problem.

It's ONE HELLUVA LOT of elbo-grease, but who cares when you've got more time than money!

Step 1 - wash the boat very well and let dry
step 2 - rub every single inch w/ 1000 grit wet-sandpaper

Hint #1 - keep a water bottle w/ soapy water their to constantly spray the area you are sanding and don't bother buying one of those contraptions w/ a handle that holds the sandpaper.

You'll rub, and rub, and rub, and rub until it starts to shine. I used the water bottle to constantly spray the area I'm sanding. I sanded a certain area and then washed it off w/ the water hose. Do the whole boat in 1000 grit and it'll look alot better.

step 4 - RPEAT THE PROCESS w/ 1500 grit sandpaper. It may not look like it needs it, but it will help tremendously w/ the upcoming steps. During this step, you'll find, HOPEFULLY, that as you sand, you'l get LESS and LESS of the milky white oxidation being released.

step 5 - I used a 3M product #P91341 Rubbing Compound on a buffer to work over the whole boat. I finally gave up on the buffer and used a terry cloth towel and did it by hand. I may have had the wrong bonnets or the wrong buffer, but hand application worked better. Work it in REAL GOOD, then wipe it off.

Even if it doesn't get all of the yellowing out, it will still make your boat look alot better.

When I post some pics, you guys are gonna be amazed at the before and after pics.

This ain't no 2 hour project on a Sunday afternoon. It took me 2 whole weekends, about a case of beer, 10 packs of sandpapaper, and an infinite amount of elbow grease.

It's alot of work, but VERY satisfying.

Good luck,

-Alton

I'm in the middle of this process and it is a lot of work, but the results are worth it in my opinion.

Alton, I was wondering when you were going to do that job. Glad you did it without me That's an azz beatin, huh?

Post some pics man.

As far as using the buffer, the convoluted face foam pads are the way to go on the compounding. I suppose they allow just enough surface contact to get the right amount of heat generated for the compound to work best. I wouldn't have wanted to try and do that part of the job by hand.

Etrain, I know your pain, had a 92 Nitro gray,black with silver metallic flake. Flake turned green, was told exact same thing. I did the wet sanding and compound. Unfortunately I was a little over zealous. 1st mistake sanded a very large in plain view area. 2nd didnt' feel was making enough progress and broke out the power sander. 3rd disregarded the metal flake that appeared. Needless to say went through the clear coat. My 02....start in a small inconspicuous place, be patient and know when to stop.

thanks guys. All is much appreciated. The test area that the fiberglass shop(NW Fiberglass in Spring...they are the $hit when it come to glass work) already did was using the wetsanding process. I did not see them test the spot but trust they hit it pretty well.

I am very familar with wetsanding and can certainly start the painful process but feeling the fiberglass shop already attempted that technique I was hoping there might be some magic chemical out there.

My projects start out much like Ranger487VS...in an effort to make a step forward I end up going three steps back

The boat still has its shine....just with a yellowish tint to it. I may go ahead and try a spot anyway.

thanks to everyone
E

If the sun stain(yellowish) is in the clearcoat it will not come out until you wetsand into the fiberglass...