Thanks Dennis for the shad response. I guess I'll have to downsize until the little buggers get out of elementary school.

Pat, I assume you are putting [img] before and [/img] after. also delete everything after jpg in the address. on photobucket i think you just have to delete the ?
Mike

Mike,

It worked like a charm. Thanks for your assistance.

Patt

Anytime. Glad I could help

re...screen shot a few posts back. I had those this wkend. I think they may be bubbles from the rotting bottom or turtles. I was damn near sitting still.

Goes up as you approach but never go back down as you leave?

Yep those Screen shots a few post back - that is NOT enough fish to worry about one way or the other (I think the 2nd screen shot is some kind of interfernce).

You are looking for TONS & TONS of fish - not just a few - either on SI or 2D - (on SI you can see the whole school (you're looking at 100 plus yards)) and you can determine exactly where they are (and not just see 10 feet wide under the boat like with 2d). But even with 2d don't stop until you see the bottom (or some where in the water colume) covered with fish.

Those pictures are WEAK (no FISH) - and not worth fishing.

lets not let this thread die... too much good info.. Mark, we are ready for the next lesson... etc....

another Q (dont mean to hijack but since we are on the topic of sonar images)....i have a cuda300 on my kayak, sometimes the screen while sort of black out.....no fish id being used...then awhile later it'll clear up and show a fish here and there!? another Q what do the black O means on the FF? i figured it was bait? let me add i have seen CATFISH on it and caught several when i read catfish FF.....just the whole black out thing is weird, just curious

The key to catching quantities of white bass by structure fishing (as opposed to looking for schooling fish on the surface) are 1st to be able to locate fish using your graph and second knowing how to catch them once you have found them. Those who report trying to catch fish with Mepps seem to have problems in both categories.

Let's address locating fish. The pattern, at least on CC, this year is finding a concentration of fish just off the bottom in water anywhere from 10 ft to 18 ft deep. I have identified a lot of structures at these ideal depths where the bottom drops off into 25+ ft right next to the 10 to 18 ft water. Fish like to hang out right on the edges where water depth starts to plunge deeper. So, what I do is criss cross my boat back and forth over the edge moving over a little from where I just crossed each time. I work my way like that along a drop-off, or hump, or ridge of a point. When I find fish, I mark them with a marker tossed over board. Then I search around the marker to see where the most fish are relative to the marker. Finally, I prefer anchoring so I go up wind of where I want to cast and drop anchor. Mepps work best most of the time pulling up at an angle rather than straight up. I also believe that in really clear water at 10 to 13 ft depths you can spook fish if you park right over them - so another reason to park off to the side and cast to fish.

If you have a good, detailed topo map of the lake you are fishing, you can see the humps, points and drop-offs on the map. Go to these places and start looking. Stay focused. Don't let suspended fish sidetrack you. The fish you are looking for are just off the bottom. In my experience, it is very difficult to catch suspended fish, AND they are not relating to structure necessarily like I want. The structure pinpoints the fish for you - just go there and search for them. The more structures you know the better. At present on CC I'm finding fish on most of the structures I fish. This is how I locate fish. I don't look for birds or boats - just go to the structures chosen for the day.

The most common mistakes I find people making: not locating a concentration of fish on the bottom before starting to fish, using too heavy line, using #2 or #3 without adding weight, not expecting a very subtle bite a lot of times, not keeping the bait on the bottom when beginning retrieve, not checking the Mepps regularly to make sure wire is not bent or line is not twisted around blade. One more tip: I have found that I can feel the soft bite a lot better if I have the rod pointing almost directly at the line during retrieve - say at a 10 degree angle to the line direction. I can't explain why but it makes a difference. Good luck!

Great tip Dennis. How much weight do you put on your Mepps? The first time I tried that I got hung up and lost it, so I have been reluctant to try it again.

Thanks again Dennis and Mark and the other posters who contribute solely for the benefit of others.

1/8 OZ works best for me with the 10 lb fluorocarbon line. Sometimes use 1/4 OZ when fishing deeper water to get it down faster, but to me the feel is a little better w/ 1/8 OZ.

Thanks Dennis pertty sure you nailed it Ive got to slow down and FIND bunches of fish on the bottom. Pretty sure he uses 1/4 oz pinch on weights Ive, already learned YOUR GONNA LOOSE SOME best thing ive found is the old spark plug most of the time it comes loose. another thing Ive keep a bleach bottle with a D ring on it when mepps gets hung untie anchor rope clamp bottle on anchor rope loop on end of rope troll over where hung get right over it drop sparkie down jig it most of the time comes loose troll back to jug tie anchor back and keep on fishin(sure beats up and down with anchor)

Good tip opus. 30 years ago, my dad would tell me to use a spark plug, but I never really understood the technique. I'll give it a try.
Thanks.

I put a swivel on mine little easier I also use 2oz bass sinkers with a snap (I make my own) yep at $4 apiece cant afford to loose many of them Mepps. Ebay has every color but silver

Hey guys,
don't know who all got the Cabela's ad today but ALL in-line spinners are 25% off from Aug 26 -Sept 6. Yes, Mepps too.