In over 50 years of fishing, I've not found a better line than Mean Green Copolymer. There just is no reason to use anything else IMO. You don't have to "baby it" like you do fluorocarbon.

+1

COPOLY

P-line flouroclear is not a 100% Fluoro. It is a Fluoro coated Co-polymer. And it has a ton of stretch.

Mean Green is the worst line I have ever used. You get hung up with their 15lb test and barely pull on it and it will break like 6lb test.

I agree Brooks++++++
Earnie Cella

I'll be the first to admit I have never used fluro, growing up on the coast using 12lbs stren original pulling red fish over oyster reefs and the only reason I broke em is when I would get lazy and not retie. Until fluro passes an oyster reef test its mono and braid for me. O yea I did finally switch off of stren to sufix and I am never going back sufix is the best line on the market.

Well said and very true. The big companies have to have ways to get more money out of you and some of the ways they do is is introducing the "newer and better and improved"---they catch a lot and don't even have to use a hook.

QUALITY mono with a Palomar knot - check the line and retie when needed - change the line on the reel ever so often and you will be fine....and a lot richer.

LOL see i told you alot of people gave up on it.its ok...more flouro for me!!I love it.seaguar is expensive but worth every penny IMO

I post this every once in a while. Here it is again.....

Fluorocarbon Line: Observations, Tricks and Tips

I have been using InvizX and Berkley 100% fluorocarbon almost exclusively for over two years and this is what I have found while fishing 75 or more days a year on Fork. I realize that lakes are different and require diverse line applications.

Brands
You get what you pay for in Fluoro. I use both the Invisx and the Berkley 100%. I like the Invisx for the lighter applications and Berkley for the heavier stuff. 25 lb Berkley for heavy flipping, 20 lb. InvizX, 17 lb. Berkley 100% and 15 InvisX for lighter flipping. Both have proven strong for me with the edge to the Berkley for heavy stuff. IMO, The InvisX is the better finesse line because it is more pliable. I use 15lb InvisX for finesse applications on Fork. I can get away with lighter InvisX (8-10-12 lb.) when fishing out of the cover.

Line Stretch and Rod Stiffness
Fluoro does not have as much initial stretch as mono thus creating one of the issues with break-offs on the hookset. For a power hookset, I need to make sure that I use a rod that is appropriate with the specific size fluoro I am using. I can snap the 15 and 17 lb. fluoro on the hookset with a rod that is too stiff, but it takes a towel on the hand to break the 17 lb. when hung up. The 20 or 25 lb Berkley 100% is better suited for stained water flipping and close range hook sets with a broomstick type rod. I don�t use 17 lb. and under Fluoro with broomstick rods. I can use the 15 and 17 lb. Fluoro for flipping, but the rod stiffness is the key there. Less initial stretch equates to better hook penetration. I like to jam the hookset on plastics and jigs so I have to have the correct rod in my hand to keep from breaking the line.

If you ever have a rod tip broken off, just junk the rod. They turn into instant broomsticks. They will never be the same an inch or so shorter. If I fix the tips I then designate those rods to the cat fishing rack or loaner rods;)

Knot
Bottom line for me is using the San Diego Jam knot, and having the correct rod stiffness as it relates to the size of fluoro being used. The SDJ knot is hard to tie incorrectly once you get it down. The SDJ knot also incurs minimal friction when tightening the knot which is important with Fluoro. I use the Palomar knot for dropshotting with Fluoro and braid applications and the SDJ for most everything else including most Mono setups. If you are using lead as a weight, make sure that they are of high quality and have smooth finishes on the top and bottom holes especially if pegging the weights.

Matching the Line to the Rod:
For the folks just getting started with fluoro, here are a few examples of rods with the lightest fluoro I think I can get away with in order to use the same "close range" power hookset for most plastic/jig fishing. This of course will vary depending on how many amps you heave into the hookset.

Castaway Heavy WRH66 20 InvizX
Powell Med-Hvy 633CEF 17 Berkely 100%
BP Qual Med-Hvy PRQ66MHT 17 Berkley 100%
Powell Med-Hvy 683CEF 17 Berkley 100%
Allstar Med-Hvy SE66MH 15 InvizX
Powell Medium 702CEF 15 InvisX
JMorris Medium JX60MT 12 or 15 InvizX
Powell Medium 684CBMF 10 or 12 InvisX


Durability and Maintenance
Fishing line may be my most costly consumable over the course of the year. I attain more usage out of high-quality fluoro than other lines. Before a trip, I stretch the line out in the back yard (30-40 yards) while the line is hooked to a screw sticking out of a tree. I stretch the line out by pulling on it with the rod or by hand. This removes most of the memory right away. I then run a thin cloth down the line that is soaked in KVD line and lure conditioner to check for nicks. If no nicks, the line stays on the reel. I may leave it stretched out for an hour or two before reeling it up. After it is reeled up I add several shots of KVD to the spool before heading out. After fishing, I bring all the rods in the house for temperature control on the line.

This process ensures dependable line without re-spooling continually, while the line casts and feels nearly like new line. You can sure get into some good sawing contests on Fluoro with a good knot and the correct rod. It�s nice to know that when they pull across cover, I can pull back with confidence in the line.

Sensitivity and Initial Stretch
Once I got used to the increased sensitivity and �reduced initial stretch� that Fluoro provides, I never looked back to mono. IMO, fluoro is much more sensitive than mono and the �reduced initial stretch� which fluoro provides, allows me to drive the hook all the way in or through their head much of the time.

I believe that I need to use the lightest and least detectible line I think I can get away with in slightly stained or clear water. Fluoro provides the thin diameter I prefer, along with sensitivity that IMO, is only exceeded by braid.


Back Lashing
One of the other problems anglers incur is controlling back lash with Fluoro. It does seem a bit trickier to get the spool tension and brakes set correctly. If the wind changes or I cast into the wind, I adjust the breaks immediately. Also the KVD line and lure conditioner helps. I spray it on thick and it helps keep the line together on the spool while trying to get all the distance I can out of a cast. I find that the lower quality reels have more of a problem with the spool tension and brake settings. The quality of the reel can equate to the number and complexity of the back lashes.


Like anything new, fluorocarbon takes some getting used to. I hope this helps anyone experimenting with fluorocarbon.
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I use Vanish and havent had 1 problem, then again I only use spinning gear if that matters. Im going to stick with it until it lets me down.

+1

It appears that only the most sophisticated Bass Fishermen on this forum can appreciate and handle Flourocarbon.

P.S. I was just stirring the pot with my previous post. Always use the line you prefer.

It appears that only the fisherman who want to land fish use mono or braid.