I'm debating this (the process where you basically melt your line to itself, using heat shrink tubing). It's either that or the braided mono style. I like the welded loops on my RIO lines. I've used some braided loops in the past and wasn't liking how they absorbed water (tip would sink). But this is on a larger weight line: 7wt SA Master SW line, no built-in loop.

Wondered if anybody's ever done this and whether all fly lines will work. It seems like it could compromise the properties of the line and eventually crack. Anybody have luck with this?

I have caught a fly line on fire trying to do that. it was not pretty...

Did you use tubing? I think that's what it's supposed to prevent.

I put the braided loops on my rods recently. The one on my 5 wt slipped off and I had to recover my leader and fly with my 7 wt. Good practice for precision casting with the 7 wt, but not a real confidence builder for the 5 wt. The loops came with heat shrink to secure it to the line. Not sure if I did something wrong or if the braid was just too big for the 5 wt line, but I put it back on and tied a couple nail knots on it using 10# test. Seems to have done the trick.

Before trying the braided loops, I just tied a perfection loop into some 20# test mono and nail knotted it to the end of my line. Seemed to work alright, but it was a bit unorthodox.

Use the mono loops. They are stronger and will last longer.
Grease the mono loop and it will float better than any welded loop out there.

Also do not use the shrink tubing to attach the mono loop to the line, they suck and will slip off ever time. Not sure why the manufactures even came up with that idea.

To install them correctly, get some braided line and put 3, 7 wrap nail nots at the top of the mono loop. Where the shrink tube would go. You want these nail knots to slightly overlap each other. Use leather gloves so you can really pull the nail knot tight. Cut excess the excess mono and tag ends of the the nail knots. the 3 nail knots should be about a quater to a tHird of an inch long. Then coat the nail knots with some glue. I use loctite. This process takes alittle bit of time but after testing it you will break you flyline before the loop will slip.

Clouser I agree. I tried those pre-made braided loops once years and years ago and they don't hold. I'll be making my own if I go that route.

But I'm interested in whether anyone has ever tested homemade welded loops and how they compare. The factory ones work fine.

Personally, I'd find out what what some one like ScottEvil or Long Haired Dave or BassBug is doing,

then,

depending on their suggestion, I ponder a bit on whether to follow or contradict their advice.


Clouser Minnow looks like he is on to something good too.

Braided mono loops homemade or loop with two nail knots

I whip finish loops if they aren't welded from the factory. I've done the mono loop thing and find the whipped loops is just as reliable

I'm currently experimenting with a new glue. E-6000. Available in the boating section at Adcademy. Looks promising. Tight bond. Stays flexible. Clear. Might be a winner.

Appreciate the feedback and agreed they all work, but I'm really looking for specific feedback. It doesn't really sound like folks have tried this--maybe that's a bad sign but I'm gonna give it a shot. Heck it might be a bust. I'm wondering about the strength of it since it's only welding the coating together. I have looked closely at the factory welded loops and I just can't tell if the core is incorporated into the weld.

Thanks.

Well the reason I brought up the double nail knot is because it works is strong and gives you a fly line loop, as does the whipped loop. I have had whipped loops fail but then I have had everything fail. Advantage of factory welds is no thread, glue, or mono bumps to hang up in the guides when playing a fish in closer than your leader.

My point being if it were my experiment I'd probably do the shrinktube over an inherently strong connection rathe than just weld line coating. Line coating is not strong and I would guess would tear easily but I'm too far from home to try it In the nex couple weeks. I would double nail knot with 10 pound mono and then shrink the tube over the knots if I were trying it.

Another thing I might try is core bonding first; strip 1/4 in of core from the tip and exacto a matching section back where your loop and line meet and bond those then cover that up with shrink tube to simulate fly line. Question is gonna be how sticky is the shrink tube? Like basketball shoes on a gym floor? And I can tell you from experience that core bonding, even with a flexible glue tends to be pretty stiff. If you keep the section short though you might not be any stiffer than a factory weld-- I have done this before but back in he head as a splice and wasn't real happy wih the stiff and stickiness- but you might forgive some level of that at the tip-- and my experiments there were before welds came out, which you have to admit are bit stiff and bulky themselves but still very useful.

I think you're right about having some other way to hold it. Just to clarify, the shrink tubing comes off after. It's just put on there so you can heat up the line to melt while holding it in a tube shape. Probably even more of a reason to whip it. I'm thinking it would be better to whip after the heat.

why bother going to all that trouble just to end up with a whipped loop then? What would you gain?