I know that there are some very different opinions on this stuff. But after lot's of reading I decided I'm going to use it instead of wood. For one, it's not much more than wood (for my 17ft boat). My two gallons was only about $156 shipped. And two, I can do it myself. And since I don't have thousands of dollars just laying around, it's really my only option.

If anyone has used Seacast before and has any quick tips, or helpful opinions, please put them here. Especially if it pertains to the gel coat. I will probably try to start this weekend.

Thanks

not sure about what seacast is but if you are really interested and can give me some info on what type boat you're talking about I think I could lead you in the right direction for a real fix.

Nick, seacast certainly is cheaper and easier than fully replacing the transom. One major problem with it is that is does not flex. Transoms need to flex a little under load, when you hit a stump, whatever. Just be aware of its drawbacks before you use it.

rb, I haven't heard yet that you need some flex. Are you talking about visible flex? I have had two people tell me I had about a year left on it. One was on my hydrofoil using the motor as a pogo stick, and there was very little noticeable flex. I have noticed it maybe getting worse though, maybe? When I put the motor down on the transom saver, I have noticed the piece of metal over the top will move back and forth a bit under pressure. I don't know.....

fixing boats can get rediculous expensive - i hope you can find a cheap way out! let us know if it works or what you decided to do and maybe itll help someone with a decision down the road.. best of luck!

Thanks Evan. I plan on taking pictures throughout the steps. So if it doesn't turn out to be a complete disaster, I'll post them here.

Going to get the motor taken off tomorrow.

I used it last year, Bought 5 gallons but could of used 6 gallons for a old 16 ft runabout.. I did a rush job because i had family coming in from out of state and they wanted to do some tubing.

I did the method of cutting out the outer transom, was easier than trying to dig out the rotten wood from the top. I really liked the stuff and would use it again, get a good mixing paddle.

Nick - I am not talking about excessive flex when a wood transom rots. Even a new transom needs to be able to torque a little when it is under load. When you accelerate, the prop is trying to rotate the motor around the transom. The transom must be strong enough to transfer that rotational load into forward motion. Doing this involves a balance between stiffness and flexibility. If it cannot flex, it will crack.

I am neutral on seacast. It is an inexpensive alternative to a full transom replacement (which will run several thousand dollars if done correctly). Just be aware of what may happen if you hit a stump or something similar.

Ron

i had my skeeter transom replaced with a product from rj industries by north west fiberglass in houston and i love it

its like sea cast

xxtexx - That does sound like a much easier way to go. Would you have done a bass boat the same way, since the transom is slightly different? How was it re-doing all of the gel coat?

Yes i probably would on a bass boat but you can try it from the top first. If you don't make much headway then you could cut out the back.

When i got the cutout fiber glassed back on the transom i just painted the back end gray and rolled some riesen over that. It is an old boat that didn't have much gel-coat left on it anyway.


I didn't mix as much fibers in the seacast as i would have liked because i didn't want it too thick. i wanted it to get down and around all the nooks and crannies.

It turned out very strong, i still should do some cosmetic work on the cap (it was a rush job). I would rather strip the hull and build up a center console but my wife loves that little boat.

So you cut the back off....take the old wood out...put the cut out back on, and secure it with a piece of wood...then pour...is that about right?

Little more to it than that. Cut it out like they show you on their web page. Remove the wood, as much as you can. I didn't get all the wood out of mine.

seacast

Look at Repair Technique 4

Bevel the edges of the cutout and the cutout hole.
You might have to clamp a board or brace across it to keep the right shape then fiberglass the cutout on. Remove board then fiberglass the area the board covered up.

Your just fiberglassing the cutout to install it not to make it look good at this time. make sure all holes on transom are filled in, both sides. This stuff will leak out, even through thin newly laid glass.

Clamp or screw that board back on so everything looks cool and flush it will hold the shape right while you pour. Dont remove it untill seacast sets up. It wont take long that stuff heats up fast.

Ok thats pretty much it if your inner transom wall is in good shape. Mine wasent had to make one with fiberglassed 3/4 in plywood.

Post a pic of your transom if you can.

I'll take a pic once I get the motor off.