If you decide to fish deeper then you must learn to be more focused in your approach. I use structure markers and throw them to mark creek channel bends or channel junctions and the breaklines associated with them. I make my own out of flat styrofoam blocks so the wave action will not unravel all the line and I paint them a greyish color so they cannot be seen from a distance. For a creek channel junction where two creeks join I use 3 markers and thoroughly fish the bars that are formed. For a point sometimes I will mark the crown and the tip down where a creek channel may wrap around the point. From there I look for the steepest dropoff into the deepest water in the area.

To visualize what to expect downstairs go walk a creek bottom through a pasture. Take note of how the creek bends will form a bar or how and where two creeks come together. Ask yourself what is it that caused the water flow to change directions. Notice how the outside bends are steeper or have a sharper break and the inside bends have a bar. Then take note of the sun and how shade shadows are cast into the creek. Also notice how water runoff will cut drainage ditches off a hill or point or into a creek channel. Then imagine there being 25 foot of water on top of all this and you will have a mental picture what it looks like down there. The drainage cuts or creek bends are irregular features that bass will hold on. We had a large bend in the creek at Lake of the Pines years ago that we fished and along that bend we always caught bass on the shady side where the sun cast a shadow.

Todays graphs are a lot easier than using the flasher units from the 70s and GPS is very convenient but learn how to triangulate your location by lining up landmarks on the shoreline. Keep a log book of your observations for future reference. Good luck.

I still am not great at it but what I have been doing lately is learning one deep water technique at a time. For Example one day I wanted to deep crank all I did was rig Deep Cranks and left everything else at home. It seems to keep me focused on that specific bait.

right im no pro but,sat,sun,and today had to fish real slow in 26 to 28' water with c-rig to catch fish.I found that a shorter c-rig has been working better for me 12".just take your time. the main thing to is go by yourself that way your not rushed by a buddy to move on cause he dont catch one on first cast.

i love this place. all the input is great guys! i have thought about getting a guide, but i didn't think it would be a good idea to go in there asking for specific techniques, but i guess i'm the one paying so i don't know. i am going to take this info and get started this weekend.

Thank you for the great advise. You always see the Pro's throw bouys but I have only fished with one person in my club that has used them.

Talk to the guide up front and explain what you are looking to learn. 99% of the guides will be glad to assist you. I have been with 7 different guides on various lakes in the past couple of years and all have been very helpful. I do not think that if guides did not help their customers they would not be guides very long. All of the ones that I have dealt with have been A+

i heard one of the big deals is learning to use your electronics. Anyone have any internet links that give some good guides to setting the fish finder up so that you can really utilize it? I've heard the auto way is no good and that you have to tweak stuff so that you get the best read out and can find the bait fish and underwater structure better..

any thoughts on that?

Set the depth range manually instead of auto depth. If your fishing a fairly shallow lake like Falcon, 40 feet works great. It allows you to gauge the bottom better. Whether it's hard or soft, rocky or muddy. Besides that, the factory settings work well enough for me.

good info, thanks. What about the sensitivity level? I've read that you want it higher in deeper waters but lower in shallow waters.. Or is it usually at a good mid range with factory settings?

Drop the boat in the water, idle away from the ramp, and watch your electronics to see the depth the bait fish are . That will lead you to the depth you should start your search.

Deep water is relative to the area a fish is located. Fifteen feet is shallow to a lot of offshore fish. Get out there, learn to read the electronics, and use a lure that will allow you to efficiently cover a depth. Look for the sweet spots, that is where you will find the better fish. It could be a stump or a rock pile out off to one side of a river ledge or hump. It takes a lot of time and effort out in the deeper water. You may fish a dozen ledges or humps and not get a bite, but when you find the right one it can be a 20 lb. sack in a matter of minutes.

The general rule of thumb is to turn the FishID off right?

Yes, that to me is about useless.

If you are considering hiring a guide, I would suggest Lance Vick on Lake Fork. He is an expert at fishing deep and has been on some excellent deep fish lately. He will also explain how to read your electronics, which is a technique that must be understood to have success out deep... You can call Lance at 903-312-0609 or visit his website www.LAKEFORKBASS.COM

Yes, and I take all of my units off automatic. Every situation is different so I want to setup to my specs and read only the info I want. I hate all the clutter you can get on auto so I adjust the gain to clear it up and pinpoint only the info for the area I am concentrating on at that time. Today's units will do so much more than you can see by running them out of the box. Get to know it and it will become second nature to you.

Here is a good starting point for setting sensitivity.

At the ramp, you will have a hard concrete bottom. Move out to 15 feet or so where your boat is still over the hard bottom of the ramp. Then set your manual depth to twice the depth of the water plus 10 feet. So if your boat is in 15 foot of water, set your manual depth to 40 foot. Now watch as the graph begins to draw the bottom. Turn the sensitivity up until the graph begins to draw two bottoms--one at 15 feet and the other (echo bottom) at 30 feet. Where ever this setting is at is a good first reference. Now, reset your depth to whatever you want, and go fish. And yes, turn fish ID off immediately if not sooner.