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Trolling Motor Switch Problem #3516645 05/28/09 08:13 PM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Posted this in the equipment section this morning; no responses so here we go....

Just replaced the foot pedal switch and second trip out, the ole motor guide quit again. It's a Brute 767.

Anyways, I have 12 or 24 volts going to the foot pedal switch. How do I test that switch? What does that switch do? Just has a hot and ground coming in with 12 or 24 and no wires going out.



Last edited by tommyc; 05/28/09 08:14 PM.

Tom Cornelius

Romans 10:9-11



Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3516670 05/28/09 08:20 PM
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BassSAT Offline
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Tommy,

I had the same problem 2-weeks ago with my 767, I tested the swith with a voltage tester, and i had 12/24 volts to the switch, still the motor would not work.
Finally I un-screwed the plastic cover on top of the trolling motor, there were two wires from the switch that were not making contact!
Give it a try!

Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: BassSAT] #3516721 05/28/09 08:33 PM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Will do, headed out there now.


Tom Cornelius

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Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3516790 05/28/09 08:49 PM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Everything is solid in the top. I held the button down from the foot control and tested the top and have no power coming to the top.


Tom Cornelius

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Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3517256 05/28/09 10:34 PM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Well, anyone else think it's the foot pedal switch, AGAIN ??? That is what I am leaning towards since I am not getting power to the head and I am thinking that's a bad thing.

Is there another switch that I need to check in the foot pedal?



Tom Cornelius

Romans 10:9-11



Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3517864 05/29/09 01:28 AM
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Bazztex Offline
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Tommy

I know you probably checked it .. the Mode Switch on the front of the foot pedal has 3 positions.. set it to Hi Bypass and see if it runs.. if so the speed selector is inop. The Hi Bypass mode goes directly to the motor.

You can also select Constant which Bypasses the Foot Switch and that will let you know if the foot switch is faulty.





Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3517937 05/29/09 01:48 AM
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Tommy,

I have the Motorguide Energy 76 and just replaced the rubber cap on top of the switch. Not sure if that's your problem but if it's not there the switch will not be engaged when you step on it.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, take the wire's off of the switch. Set the meter to ohms and you should have continuity (needle should move to 0) when the switch is closed and the needle will not move when it's open. SO, if it dosn't move after activating the switch a couple of times, it's a bad switch.
Hope this helps and is not too confusing.
who_knows

Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: sack5basser] #3518045 05/29/09 02:15 AM
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Brian Muirhead Offline
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Take the switch loose and manualy press the button down with your finger the plastic foot switch may not be pressing the button down on the electric switch. mine did that and to correct the problem i filled the round hole in the bottom of the foot switch with hot glue and it worked fine.


WEAR YOUR FLIPPIN LIFE JACKET
Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: sack5basser] #3518060 05/29/09 02:19 AM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Charlie,
This one only has 12/off/24 as far as I can tell, Nothing on the front. No high-by-pass for heavy cruisin. Must be one of the old models





Quote:
If you have a volt/ohm meter, take the wire's off of the switch. Set the meter to ohms and you should have continuity (needle should move to 0) when the switch is closed and the needle will not move when it's open. SO, if it dosn't move after activating the switch a couple of times, it's a bad switch.
Hope this helps and is not too confusing.



Sack5basser,
I checked it as you stated, No continuity when the switch is engaged. I take it that the new switch I installed crapped out? I dont think it clicks like it did when I put it in. Possibly I just bought a POS switch?
Anyone want to explain what this switch does when it has 12/24 coming into it and no other wires going out? I am strictly amateur when it comes to these types of switches.

Dumb-A question but I had to ask.... bang


Tom Cornelius

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Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3518148 05/29/09 02:40 AM
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tommyc Offline OP
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Charlie just called me at the house and helped out. Thanks Bro!

I am thinking I bought a POS switch. More as I know it. Will check back in the morning if anyone else has advice.

Thanks you all.



Tom Cornelius

Romans 10:9-11



Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3521973 05/30/09 01:26 AM
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tommyc Offline OP
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The new switch went bad. No clicky on and off. Picked up a new one today. I thought it odd that All-Star would not replace the switch that lasted 1 trip and went out on the 2nd trip. Less than 2 weeks. Is this standard on electrical? That is what they told me. I guess I will just keep a jumper in the boat to quick fix in case it goes again. (2 switches in 3 trips)

I made this a lot harder than it was. What was throwing me was that there was a black and red coming into the switch and I have 12/off/24 at the switch. Thought the switch did more than it does. Bottom line is, its just a switch.



Tom Cornelius

Romans 10:9-11



Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3521988 05/30/09 01:30 AM
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Yes T/M electrical parts have never had a warranty.. it's odd but the only warranty is from the MFG when the whole T/M is new.

Glad you got the problem resolved! cheers

Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: Bazztex] #3522159 05/30/09 02:17 AM
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yamaha runner Offline
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It sounds like the boot that goes over the switch might be worn out

Re: Trolling Motor Switch Problem [Re: tommyc] #3523046 05/30/09 02:16 PM
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If the switch is not clicking when you press it is shorted. If you just replaced it you may have some other problem causing the motor to pull too many amps. Make sure none of the wires in the head or the foot pedal are melted together. May also have water in lower unit.


Service Manager G&S Trolling Motor http://www.gstrollingmotors.com
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