Kelly,
Looking at the last picture you posted, I would do as Don suggested and hang the pipe under the seat. It will be down lower, and more out of the way. A cleaner look, and less to get hung up on. You can get galvanized water heater straps at the hardware store to anchor the pipe to the bottom of the seat. Water heater straps have holes in them every couple of inches. It also should be pretty cheap.
When the boat is on the trailer, the pipe will slope down at one end, so holding water shouldn't be a big problem. To help prevent water getting in, fill the ends with silicone sealer after you get all the wires connected

As for the seat brackets, bolt them on top of the carpet. It would be a real PITA to try and cut the carpet around the brackets.

I know, I know, more money, but you also need to get a battery box. A cheap plastic one from wally world will do fine. That will keep spilled acid out of the bottom of the boat. Acid and aluminum is not a good idea. Also makes the battery easier to carry.

The boat is looking great. It's a long process, but it'll be worth it in the long run. As I remember it, most of my problems where engine and fuel related. You're ahead of the game.

Kirk

Kelkay,

There is a way build confidence in your project by a partial test of the water tightness right there in the yard. When you are ready to allow things inside to get wet pull the boat to a hose convenient location, off the road is best, and where you want the water to irrigate the lawn or garden when you are done. Try to find a level place port to starboard. Tie the boat down to the trailer bow and stern.

Your need to put the plug(s) in. By adjusting the tongue jack get the keel about level with a slight slope toward the stern drain. The water we are going to put in the boat can shift very easily toward the front or back. It would be best to have the trailer hitched to the truck so you have firm control of that end, by even letting the tongue jack push the trunk bumper up, if necessary to get the boat keel slightly sloped toward the stern. Note the trailer tire inflation condition. Have a grease pencil or pencil ready to mark places that leak (if any). Now start filling the boat with water using the hose. Watching the tire bulge was you add the water weight to the boat. Watch for boat bottom flexing inward above the trailer bunks. Most trailers are not built to hold a boat full of water so you have to be careful here and add weight cautiously. Your trailer information might tell you how much weight it can handle. For your reference a one foot by one foot by one foot cube of water weighs just over 60 lbs.

Try to fill boat to above at least what was the old water line. One of your early pictures can probably show where that was. Places that leak draw a circle around it on the outside. Try tighten up on any bolts that are leaking while the water is stii in the boat. Later add a rubber washer with some silicon under any bolt hole that will not stop leaking. You might need to drive a cotton caulk into any big crack, from the outside after the boat is drained out. Silicon that caulk cloth before you drive it in. Silicon the leak site surface from the outside. After you decide the trailer cannot handle any more weight mark the inside water line, and pull the plug, or siphon most of it out where ever you want the water to go.

With the detailed job you have done I'm betting it proves to be leak proof.

When you are ready, with all the work you have done this is a rebirth for her, she deserves a bottle broken over her bow. I'm betting you can get a few TFFers to cheer you on.

Thanks guys for the thoughts, and ideas. I do not know if the pvc pipe will be able to fit much lower, but I will check that out. The carpet would be better to put in before the brackets. I bought a sealer to do the carriage bolt heads...so I will put that on before the carpet. I am thinking of trying Liquid Nails to attach the carpet...it is waterproof. I will ask about that on the boat section as well.

Well the boat carpet is in. I put the drain in as well. However I broke one of the brass screws when tightening it up...so back to the hardware store. I put the pvc pipe in the boat to see what it would look like...not thrilled with the elbow look on the ends...so I guess I will get another 10ft piece of pvc, and cut it to fit. I need to figure out how much wire I will need...that needs to be put through the pvc before it is bolted in.

The pipe would not fit at the side of the bottom of the seats...there was not enough width on the bow seat to make it possible. Any ideas on a lacquer or sally's to use to keep the edges from fraying? There was not enough width to staple underneath the seats.

marine sillacone sealant.You can get it at Academy.

I have a little bit left in that tube...but not nearly enough. That is a good idea. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44869____SearchResults

I wonder how this would work...I think you are on the right track...if I can use it with a caulk gun, that would be even better. I would like it to be flexible, and not yellow. (stay clear)

Never mind, it doesn't look like it would work for carpet..I will keep searching.

+1 on Grey Electrical Flex Tubing, seal both ends with silicone. You can route it any way you want. Flexible, resistant to oil/gas, easy to trim.

Well that is a relief...at least I picked out something good...hehehe...thank you.

Well I have been looking this up, but so far haven't found another person who has dealt with this exact problem. Guess that is what I get for trying to be cheap and using the bunk carpet to do the seats...well, live and learn. Derik, it looks like your idea might be the best, but I am still open to any more suggestions. I plan to get this done tomorrow if possible.

Well I got the spare tire holder in...that was a chore because it had to go upside down, and on the side of the trailer in order to fit. I also finished the drain today...putting that last screw in, and silicone...looks like it was just in the nick of time, because rain seems to be heading our way...possibly even tonight. I did not do the silicone on the edges of the carpet...I was gonna see first if anyone came up with a better idea. I went to the fabric store today, they didn't have anything that would work. I asked at Home Depot about it too...they thought the marine silicone might work best too. I bought another piece of the pvc...and had them to cut three foot off of it, and I attached the coupler. Now I am good to go. I just need the wiring, the circuit breakers, and the battery...that kind of stuff. I plan to order the wiring...since Home Depot did not seem to have what I needed. Also I went to Academy today and bought a shrink tape kit. That should keep my wiring practically new for a very long time. Last I will buy the battery and battery box. The wiring will set me back a bit...so I hope the wiring and circuit breakers aren't too much...ha.

fish finder? just re-wired the bass hunter

note-dont let a cat "help" you wrap the wires...

I had two fish finders given to me. I cannot wait to try them out. My cats would probably love to play with the wiring, but it will never come inside.

So where is it at now.