#1 - The A/C stop working at first then I added in 3 can of freon work for one day then stop, then Added 1 can of stop leak with 4 cans freon 134a working good for 3 week and now it dead again, IS there the way can I checking for the leak?

#2 - Any Advice how to replace brake power booster, I look under dash there is no room. Do I have to remove steering wheel to get to it?

Thanks in advance

There is a dye you can add to system to find leaks! I have had to best of luck with Soapy water! Spray refrigerant lines hoses etc. I sure you will see bubbles!

No you don't have to take steering out to remove. after master cylinder off. you have 4bolt and pull out!

compressor is most likely the problem, the housing has seals at each end that always go bad. cheapest place i found was on ebay from some place in mansfield tx.but no local pickup.

Ditto on looking at the compressor for the refrigerant leak. The front seal in the comp is usually the culprit. And FYI, the stop leak stuff rarely works. It usually only succeeds in separating the buyer from a little more of his/her money.

As for the brake booster, it should be mounted on the firewall in the engine bay just above the steering shaft. Easily accessible. Like said above; Remove the master Cylinder, then unbolt the booster. Reverse steps to install, bleed brakes, and go on down the road. While you're there, look for signs of any brake fluid in the booster itself. If so, you need a master cylinder too.


Jay

i agree front shaft seal on the compressor. buy a/c delco on ebay. after market compressors will not last..

I had to replace the compressor in my Suburban about every other year because of the seal leaking. Good luck finding a compressor that isn't rebuilt.

the compressor is the most likely source of the leak, the r-4 compressors are notorious for leaking. as far as the brake booster goes, simple job. i use a long extension with a wobble and 15 mm socket to remove the 4 15mm nuts under the dash. don't remove the brake lines from the master cylinder, just unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and pull it out of the way. the worst part of the job is removing the clip that atatches the booster rod to the brake pedal.

The service ports are also common to leak. Still have the original compressor on my 95 C1500. Had to replace the service valves (they screw on) last year due to a leak.

TampC- it sure sounds like you're putting a LOT of refrigerant in that system, so I can only assume it has rear A/C.
If this is the case, Ck. for a leak @ rear evaporator connections, or a rubbed liquid line along the right rear frame-rail. this is/was the most typical issue I've found on rear-air suburbans.
other than that, ck for leaks @ o-ring connections or comp. shaft seal.
good luck
-Brian

Flush the system, replace the accumulator and orifice when you doing the compressor. Stop leak = No Good!

Oreilly sells the Delphi Compressor, reasonably priced. I totally agree with the compressor body seal going bad. One way to check that is an accumulation of oil residue around the compressor.

Also very true what lite-liner said about the lines on Suburbans.

The power brake booster is under the hood. But I have to ask, do you trust yourself doing brake work? It'd obvious you are not experienced, and if you don't know what you are doing do you really want to do it yourself?

Bill....

Update
Thanks to all
Brake: finaly I did replace brake power booster *Brake good like new again*

A/C: I found the leak on one of the aluminum tube, I will replace it when I can fine the use vacuum pump then will do that.