lots of good tips...here are a few of mine...
I like stren super braid or suffix braid better than powerpro...they have a teflon coating where power pro has a wax coating, ive never had a problem with it digging in and I use it on spinning reels. I used powerpro before them and liked it, but now having tried all three powerpro is my last choice.
for backing, mono works or you can also just put a layer of black electricians tape on the bottom of your spool, does the same thing.
lastly, I recommend the palomar knot, easy to tie, and that not has NEVER failed me.
set you drag a bit looser than you did with mono, no stretch means all the stress will be on your rod and reel now...that braid just WONT BREAK unless it gets frayed by something sharp.
as for the heavy stuff being hard to break if you snag, often you can either straighten the hook, or pull the whole dang stump in with braid!
good luck, I think your gonna like braid! no twist, no coils, no breaking!

investing in a good pair of braid scissors(found at the gvine bps next to the braid, can someone say product placement...) they make life much easier and leave a clean cut. But as far as my guides being cut it hasnt happened.
Snags can really piss you off when you spend the money for braid but have to cut 20yrds or so off, i try to straighten the hook if possible but if im in an area where snags are prevelent, i use a lighter pound leader as mentioned

That is the only knot I use!

One more thing. How will a bobber stop knot work with braid? I use floss as the stop.

for a bobber stop i tie a slip bobber knot using light braided nylon fishing line ... it works just fine with braided spectra, slides easy

Caney you seen my cats I use 20 lb leader sometimes 25 LOL. And I do lose some in timber but that is only when I dont retie after catching a few. Bobber stop wont be a problem with power pro.

here's how i tie my bobber stop ... loop the line around & along side the maniline ... go around both lines 6 times & then pull both ends to cinch the knot down ... check & see if the knot is too loose before you trim the tag ends

Thanks guys. That is how I tie my bobber stop knot too.

I just got done spooling up my 209's and 7000's and wanted to post a few things that might help others that are spooling up those reels with 65 lb powerpro. With a 150 yard spool of 65 lb braid and 25 lb big game as backing it took 200 cranks of the reel handle on my Abu 7000's to get the right amount of backing and 250 cranks on the Penn 209's. Can't wait to hook up with a big cat! Thanks for the help!

if you have the same reels put the braid on first then your backin to fill reel then transfer to another reel much easier to get right amount on reeel

I agree with opus. But when ya go to do the second reel, what ya can do is run all your braid on first, then add a mono top-shot. Transfer to another spool of line, then another...and it gets the mono on top again to put on the reel. Alot of trouble but it works.

Couple of other notes. I've found that using mono for tying stop knots works GREAT...it stays in place really well but can be slid w/o damage to the braid (takes some doing though). Also, if you're running 65 lb. braid mainline...tie all of your leaders w/ 50 lb. Big Game (unless you want lighter than that). It's plenty strong (if you are undertackled with 50 lb., 65 lb. isn't gonna help you much more). That way, when you get hung, you only break the leader and don't lose the expensive power pro (learned this fishing Denison Dam). As far as your drag goes...don't set it like you're using 65 lb. test. You'll cause the line to dig into itself. Set it like you're using about 30 lb. test. You can crank it up if need be when fighting something really big, but keeping it @ 30 will work for most situations.