1. Will a tunnell hull get worse gas milage. And if it does how much worse?
2. Will they not turn very well, or is it only in reverse?
3. Do they ride rougher? How much worse.

Ive been looking at a G3,1860 CCT. Im not going to be fishing in salt water. I just like the looks of a tunnell hull. I will be fishing in rivers. I just dont know how often. Im going to fish for crappie, cats, bass, bow fish. What do yall thinks guys.
Give me ur opinions guys.

Thanks guys

Im also looking at the 1966CCT because of the bigger motor.

Thanks

1. Will a tunnell hull get worse gas milage. And if it does how much worse? Yes, unsure

2. Will they not turn very well, or is it only in reverse? terrible in reverse slips some in corners at high speed but no real problem.

3. Do they ride rougher? How much worse. Yes, but not a lot worse than a modified vee.

I have fished out of a 2004 Xpress 18x70 tunnel for the past four years. You suffer with 20 MPH wind, beat&wet,but the shallow water capabilities are wonderful. They are excellent in rivers the tunnel protects the prop from logs and rocks. A hydraulic jackplate is a nice addition. My boat runs on plane in 6-8 inches of water and gets on plane in 12 inches.

A tunnel with a very wide bow will do you go in the rivers. Lots of surface area to keep you shallow.

I've had both. You will notice steering effort, especially when crossing someone's wake from behind them. It will be harder to back up, but it can be done, just don't expect quick response.

But, all that said, it will run and sit shallow. For the river, thatz what the doctor ordered!

Definitely get the hydraulic jackplate if you go with the tunnel. Some tunnels actually run more efficiently and handle better, especially in reverse, at lower motor positions. I know mine does. I only raise it when running or getting up extremely shallow. You can also have water pressure issues at higher settings but it's nice to have the capability when you need it. Kinda like 4 wheel drive.

22' Bluewave tunnel (mine) runs 45 with a 200 Yamaha. That engine will push a 21' bass hull at 68mph. Maybe it's the difference in weight or maybe the tunnel hull is way less efficient...I don't know. Interpret that into fuel consumption as you will.

A tunnel hull without a hydraulic jackplate is a colossal waste of good tunnel. You use the jackplate and engine tilt to tune your ride at high speed. It makes a substantial difference (~300 rpm) when it's right. When you completely raise the engine, the bottom of the prop is level with the bottom of the boat. If the boat floats in 10" of water then that's how shallow you can run at low idle. You can't set an engine that shallow and run at high speed without cavitating to a stop. The prop sucks air and looses it's bite altogether. Same thing goes for turning. If the engine's too shallow, the prop sucks air. Put enough prop in the water and it turns just fine. Lower the engine to back up or water comes over the transom.

I can't really say one way or t'other about ride difference. The Bluewave has a massive tunnel radius at the stern but is so darned heavy that it can't help but ride smooth. A lighter boat would get bounced around with or without a tunnel. Just my observations. YMMV...

The only steering difference I have seen is in reverse, and then it is significant. Moving forward I haven't noticed any problems. I believe the hull is also less efficient and gas mileage is less. I have a 19 foot Kenner with a tunnel hull, 10" jackplate, and 150 HP.

I can't imagine running a boat in a river on plane in 10 inches of water. Seems like a recipe for a new lower unit, submerged logs, rocks, sand bars. A salt water bay is at least predictable once you figure it out. If your always going to be in fresh water, I would recomend going without the tunnel hull.

There are two resons i would like to have a tunnel hull. One is the looks, the motor siting high looks pretty cool.
Two, just like MrG said above, its nice to have it when u need it, kind of like having four wheel drive. If its going to affect the ride, and the quality of the boat on the water, ide rather not get it. Its only about $500 more for the tunnel hull, thats not a heck of alot for a cooler looking boat and having something that will get me out of a tight spot. Another Q, does a tunell hull with a jack plate require more maintenance of some sort.
Thanks guys u all have been very helpfull, i still dont know if i should or should not get one.

Looks cool??

If I really wanted to fish shallow rivers, forget the tunnel, get a jet...only an airboat runs in less water.

Most of the comments were correct, but you need to heed a few things to make your cool rig actually function.

The comment on the hydraulic plate is dead on, don't even consider a tunnel without it, along with a compression plate and the right four blade stainless prop, you can now get up and run in much less water without losing your water pressure. Every aluminum tunnel I've rigged without sponsons also needed a set of step n trims, that'll get you where you want to be.

And the painful truth, who ever you're talking to about that rig probably won't have much experience rigging a tunnel, and if not, then I'd highly suggest you getting rigging tips here or somewhere with somone who does have a clue. Most of the negative comments come from ill propped and ill rigged tunnels, they aren't bass boats, and won't take the same equipment.

Ditto what pat says.. It would be an absolute waste of $$$$$$$ if the dealer that rigs your boat is'nt a flats fisherman. There is a lot of "I know" people out there that is more than willing to take your money but don't have a clue on how to rig the tunnel style boat. Fact is several years back, a highly respectable marina, rigged several boats for TPWD using a jet drive engine and put them on Hydralic jack plates because they stuck to far below the boat. You should have seen the water spray come out the back of those rigs..LOL...LOL...LOL

Oh man...
Jets are a whole different breed, NOTHING you know about setting up a prop boat equates to a squirt motor.

Speaking of rigging, one other thing to make sure of is throttle/shifter/steering cable length. If you add a jackplate after the motor has been mounted conventionally they may be too short. You have to have enough extra to allow for the up and down travel plus the setback of the plate.

I'd certainly have the conversation with you dealer as to how they were planning on setting up your rig, you'll know really quick if his clue ticket is punched or not.