So I have a 2001 18 ft. Bluewave, it's a great boat and I'm the third owner so there is quite a few wires running through the boat and to the battery directly. Things like my stern light is direct to the battery with an inline toggle. So I guess my question is how big of a project is this? I'm wanting to put new rockers and rewire the entire boat. Is there someone that y'all would recommend to do this, located in Stephenville.

It's a level 4 pain.
If you're gonna do it, do it right so you never have to do it over.
Spend the money on pre-tinned wire. It'll never corrode. Use saltwater connectors and hardware, dual wall heat shrink on all connections.

Not that difficult but to do it right and rig it cleanly it is very time consuming.

I rewired my Lund last year. The hardest part for me was working underneath the console. Not much space and almost no where to put a light. Replaced all the rocker switches and added some new ones as well.

If you have Carling rockers you can replace the switch covers. I ordered mine from OTTRW. They offer best prices and selection. The removal tool makes the job easy. Green upper is the most popular but they have other colors. I thought about blue but some people say they are too bright. They also have switch bodies if you have any that need to be replaced. Pics are after and before.

It's not a terrible job but it'll be time consuming

I know this is pricey, but whatever you do, USE ANCOR WIRE. I've wasted time using automotive wire on stuff in the past. Since then I've always used Ancor wire for repairs/new installs and I've NEVER had an issue.

A lot of guys will tell you to use Ancor butt connectors and ring terminals as well. I tend to disagree on that, I don't believe they're totally necessary. I just use the normal heat shrinkable butt connectors you get anywhere and heat shrink the connector, heat shrink tube on top of that, and electrical tape on top of that. To make that argument credible, I did this method on my trailer lights about 6-7 years ago. Never a problem whatsoever...If you want to spend the money on Ancor connectors, do it. Even then, I'd still double heat shrink and electrical tape them. That's what has proven to be effective for me.

Also, I agree with the above post. Working under the console is absolutely the worst part of the job. If I ever have to do any extensive electrical work under there, I'll likely remove the seats so I don't have to lay at an angle

I only use marine heat shrink tubing. It has an adhesive in it and shrinks up to 4x. Don't use the plastic [censored].

Elve's are required for all boat rigging/wiring work.

Or a Chinese kid.

That is absolutely not joke.