Is this normal, a lesser rod and reel combo for cranking because feel is less important? I've started trying to crank more and find myself looking for a cheaper setup for this. Thoughts? Also, for draggin, I cannot use a Daiwa with the TWS. Just doesn't work for laying the line across my finger, but Daiwas are so smooth. Thought they may work for cranking. Anyone use em for that and enjoy them? Thanks all

I got a 6:3 tatula I medium depth crank with with medium hvy fast rod.A good rod helps it get through the timber

I prefer 300 size reels for deeper cranking. The large capacity is nice for long strolls; and a 1-4oz swimbait rod with nice parabolic action for throwing bigger/heavier/deeper diving crankbaits.

I buy the best quality I can afford on all my setups. I think a good reel is especially needed in cranking. You're working the heck out of that reel cast after cast. Much more so than on a reel you are flipping or dragging with. And feel is important as well. Sometimes figuring out the difference in a fish and a tree or a brush pile quickly makes the difference in hooking a fish well, or losing a fish. Don't skimp Frank

Yeah my cranking setups are on the lower end. Spend a little more for nicer bottom contact rods
For a deep crank reel, I’d highly recommend to give the Lews BB1 Pro a look. That thing is a tank and absolutely slings a 6XD a mile. Find one used, I got mine for in excellent condition for $120 shipped off BBC Boards

All depends on how far you down the rabbit hole…

If your a cranker then why wouldn’t you pair up a good rod/reel combo to match the style of bait your throwing
It can only benefit you if your using the right flex and action rod

Price doesn't matter if the action is unforgiving and too stiff. You will lose just as many fish on a $20 rod as you will on a $500 rod throwing trebles.

All good points, The reel is likely worth investing more in, because it will do harder work.

As for the rods, you just have to find what works best works and the baits you like to throw most. To me, casting distance is really important, so I want a long rod. "Give" is also important, for a few reasons, Its easier to "walk" a crankbait through hard cover with the right rod. Also, especially this time of year, sometimes just barely react to crankbaits. I don't know how many fish I've caught just barely hooked, this time of year, it can definetly be the difference between a good day of catching a few big ones, and nothing. A proper cranking rod loads enough to enable the hooks to catch.

Some prefer fiberglass, others blend or composites, others again all graphite. Fiberglass is kind of the traditional/old school rod for crankin that tends to be more economical.

I don't think you need to go out and spend $500 on a cranking rod, but I don't skimp or necessarily spend less on them than a bottom contact type rod. You can get a nice rod for less than $200.

If cranking is something you are wanting to get into more like you said, you won't realize the techniques full potential until you are set up with combos that work the best for the baits you're throwing.

All my rod / reel combinations are around the same price points and brand. I don't feel I need to go lower / higher on any setup as they have proven to me to be the best fit for how I fish and spend my money.

My favorite cranking rods are the old copper colored G. Loomis for everything up to XD6 or DD22. All of them have Curado reels some I series and K series. For 8xds and above I use Dobyns Champion in 805 or 806 depending on bait size. I have Lews heavy duty wide spools on them. I like 12 lb. Big Game on smaller baits and 15 or 20 for the big ones. Yes all those combos are less than my bottom contact ones. My first cranking rods that I've had 20 yrs. And still use them walleye fishing are St.Croix premiers that cost $90. I think you can still get them for around $110.

Well, it's complicated. Do some research on David Fritz.

https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...99CF4853B4B06D7705942230&FORM=VRDGAR

He says feel is the most important thing. He also stresses gear ratio which helps with feel. I find this to be very true. He also stresses the right rod action to not pull the bait away from the fish before they eat it. Way back in the day, he strongly recommended the Lew's BB1 that had 3 bearings. Before that, people got around on horses so take it for what it's worth.

As a general rule, I spend much less on crankbait and topwater equipment.

I don't feel the need to feel a minnow fart with any of the rods I use a moving bait on....... I want decent backbone for setting the hook and a decent tip to load and shoot the bait.
I do use quality reels on all my rods.

I have daiwa for everything but cranking. Old school chronarchs and one unicorn curado for my deeper cranking. Really enjoy the TFO tactical elite cranking rods and also the Halo HFX and Canterbury cranking rods. The TFO are great rods from a not awesome rod line 🤘