Got a question…What would be best size to go with? It’ll be for my cranking, electronics, power poles, basically everything besides my trolling motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Was thinking maybe 12v 100ah or should I just get one for my electronics only?

Ionic 125 Ah
I would also recommend a separate Ionic for the Electronics to!

Be sure you are looking at a "cranking" or "dual purpose" battery. A standard 100Ah "lithium" is not intended for cranking and you will very likely run into issues using it as such. It'd also be good to know what your "electronics" look like. That could be one graph or five big ones.



I've had pretty good luck with this 140 Ah dual purpose so far

https://youtu.be/VCwavUKtb6A

I have a Relion RB100HP that I am looking to sell. I am upgrading from 12V TM batts to 36V, so went ahead and got a good deal on a new cranking battery as well. Bought in 2021, weekend warrior lifestyle (if when my 2 HS aged sons baseball schedule allows....so that'll tell you how much use its had lol) and has never NOT gone green when charged. Always stored inside boat, which stays inside garage. If I had to guess, you'll probably get another 6 years out of it at a minimum. Am also selling the charger as the current setup is 12V. It's a Dual Pro (charging systems Int'l) 3 bank 15 amp Lithium charger.

Batt- $350
Charger- $300

PM for pics if you're interested.

An Ionic125 is what you need.

What motor and electronics do you have? That's the first thing to look at before selecting a battery.
Several people on here jumped in and said get an Ionic 125a, heck I have one myself but if my electronics were a little different then it may not be enough.

I run four Lowrance Lives, an AT2, sonic hub, separate livewells, lights, power poles, and my SHO off of one Ionic 125. It never gets below 60% in an 8 hour tournament. I also seldom put screens in standby and I usually forget to turn off my nav lights till around 9-10am.

Two 12" Helix's, a 15" Helix, Garmin 1222, Mega 360, Livescope, along with everything else in the boat. Our lakes out here are a bit small so not a lot of running around to keep the charge up and at end of day I'm usually around 50%. I imagine if I had Solex or Apex units in leu of the Helix's I'd be danger low and those units suck some serious juice.

I have an Ionic 125 AH on my 225 Pro XS (2 stroke) #1B243409 and i'm not getting that good snap the Pro XS should be giving at start up. Battery is running a Garmin/GLS10, Helix 12 and Helix 10. Battery is in good health and is charging normal and not over loaded. My dealer states to use a AGM or Lead with the correct cranking amps.

I have 250 merc, one hummingbird at console, one hds pro 10 at front with at2 and 2 power poles

Lakes I fish ain’t very big either and I don’t do a lot of running around usually

Same motor and battery, my ionic was “snappy” up until it got cold. My lead acid was always weaker sounding than the ionic. I think it was in the 40’s last time out and i didn’t think the ionic was going to fire the motor off, got better once it warmed up during the day. I have wondered if it’s something in my motor or thickening of the oil residue in the cylinders. Interesting that you are experiencing the same thing.


I have the ionic and a big lead acid (napa7234) on a battery selector switch, so it’s easy for me to compare the start up of each.

I’ve had my Ionic 3 years now and never noticed that cranking my SHO in the cold.

Must be a Merc thing. My SHO fires off quick

ionic 125 for graphs will still give you fuzzy picture towards the end of the day due to lower voltage if you run 4 graphs (it would show that it still was 40-60% charged but my volts would go on my garmin from 13.2 to 12.9 and it would destort the picture.) I went 100 amp hour 16 volt from power house lithium for all 4 graphs, livescope and 360 and it solved all my problems.