I have a 2014 Basstracker with 3 12V batteries. 2 12V batteries in series for my Fortrex Trolling Motor and 1 12V battery for my Garmins/Cranking/Starting. Typically when I take it out I manually attach the proper wires to the batteries and screw a wingnut back on when I'm running it.

It would be nice to be able to leave them screwed on and just have On/Off switches. I bought two of these off Amazon (see below) and realized they may not work. The gauge of wires from my trolling motor and boat are pretty big, so I can't just cut the wires and attach them. Would anyone know a solution to this?

I have a inline switch on my batteries that run my graphs and Mega Live. I have them wired straight to the batteries. When I get off the water, I flip the switch to off where no more juice can go back to those items, especially when charging those batteries.

I’d send it back and get one sized correctly. It’s probably have studs on it. I use one like you posted to kill my livescope only.

Copper cable cutters(harbor freight should have a cheap pair.) Solder, a torch, and the ends.

Shrink tube.



You need to figure out the wire gauge. That switch will list the wire gauge it can use.

Wire gauge is 6 AWG

Unplug you trolling motor when done for the day. That cuts power to that. Leave the motor hooked up. It shouldn't have a parasitic draw on your starting battery unless you have something wrong. Hook your switch into the wire going to your electronics and switch off at the end of the day. That is what I have and it works well. I also have two poles on a switch so I can shut those off at the end of the day.

In case it doesn't work. Look outside the boat section.



From mild to wild, money too. Some are automatic,




https://www.summitracing.com/search...fault&SortOrder=Ascending&page=2

I run 6 to those all the time. You can just drill a properly sized hole for the wire in the little removable plates on the side of the switch. Lay out your connectors in opposite directions so they fit in the boxes.

My boat unfortunately has a parasitic draw. The lights stay on and only turn off once I unhook the electronics from the battery.

I could be overthinking this. Could I leave my trolling motor in the OFF position and it not have a parasitic draw? Secondly, there are 2 wires for my crank/electronics battery. I'm wondering if only the electronic wire has the parasitic draw, and if I install the switch there (small gauge), then I can leave the cranking battery plugged in as well?

Got a test light? Pull the battery cable. Stick the light between them. It'll show a parasitic load. You can track it down.

Forgot to add, but Oreileys carries the big blue ring crimp connectors you will need for 6 guage. The ring just screw right down into your switch terminals

Just cut the cables and put ring terminals on. Do NOT use the cheap ones from oriellys. Bad idea. You need to use heavy gauge tinned copper ring terminals. Marine grade.

That switch can handle the load easily. It has a short term rating of 1500 amps for a few seconds. (For cranking the motor).

I'm glad you mentioned marine grade. It's only a couple bucks more and way less headaches in the long run. It's worth it.

The ones I’m getting are damn near $6 a terminal and have to be crimped with heavy crimp tool. We might be talking about different stuff.