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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984110
02/10/24 06:16 PM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,844
kennerdude
TFF Celebrity
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TFF Celebrity
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,844 |
I really like the layout. Bob, can you move that walk door a little closer to your large door? Maybe give you a little room in that corner to add a bench or something, maybe a sink. I’ve got a sink and a 6 gallon water heater.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984115
02/10/24 06:19 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121,182
hopalong
Pescador Loco
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Pescador Loco
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121,182 |
Things I've learned with my shop Bob. The roofs' ridge allows leaves and bugs in. When the rain is blowing, rain gets in there too. Ask about a way to seal that up. Knowing what I know now, I would 100% spray foam the entire damn thing. I had a white roof put on and in the summer, it's like a freakin easy bake oven in there. I open the doors for the nice breeze, but the radiated heat from the sun on the metal is ridiculous. If you're having this put up, I ask your contractor to put screws in the rib of the roof, not the flats. I can't for the life of me, understand why anyone would put the screw hole in the flat where the water actually runs. Kind of on that note, make sure your panels run vertical and not horizontal, to permit maximum water run off. Make sure the drainage around your building can handle the amount of rain outflow for when we have these 10" of rain in a week monsoons. (one corner of my building pad floods with heavy rain) Also ask your builder if he will run a compactor over the crushed concrete or just track it in? It will make a difference in how long before it starts degrading.
Mostly...once it's done, get out and enjoy it! Hope you get to go out and strum that Dobro on a peaceful summer night and just listen to the nature and pic some good tunes.
Dave, Great points to consider! Thanks. The "dirt" guy and the contractor both said they need to bring in a red dirt (clayish I suppose) base about 3 or 4 " then bring in the Crushed concrete around 3 or 4 inches as well. The contractor said he has a site with the crushed concrete and he has heavy equipment and 18 wheelers driving across it. I will ask the contractor about these items. previous owner brought in 6 end dump loads of crushed concrete, one of his companies hauls a lot of it, it is now most of our parking area out front. like dave said, have them run a compactor over it a few times, it will help.
" Hop, set the hook"! hopalong 99,999 TexDawg 99,999 FJB! not my president by a long shot!
lake fork FISHERMANS COVE MARINA/reservations - 903 474 7479
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984122
02/10/24 06:25 PM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121,182
hopalong
Pescador Loco
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Pescador Loco
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121,182 |
one suggestion I would make, put in a couple of passive vents in the gable or put in one with a thermostat controlled fan.
summertime you will thank me and so will any stuff stored there.
even a couple of 2/0x30 windows on the north/south exposures would be good. you can put up hardware cloth on the inside for security.
even with the insulation it will get outrageously hot in summer.
" Hop, set the hook"! hopalong 99,999 TexDawg 99,999 FJB! not my president by a long shot!
lake fork FISHERMANS COVE MARINA/reservations - 903 474 7479
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984127
02/10/24 06:34 PM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,844
kennerdude
TFF Celebrity
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TFF Celebrity
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,844 |
This is what we put on ours. ![[Linked Image]](https://texasfishingforum.com/forums/pics/userpics/2024/02/full-94939-213755-img_4665.jpeg)
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: hopalong]
#14984158
02/10/24 07:09 PM
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 97,622
Bob Davis
OP
Bunkeroid Bob
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OP
Bunkeroid Bob
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 97,622 |
Things I've learned with my shop Bob. The roofs' ridge allows leaves and bugs in. When the rain is blowing, rain gets in there too. Ask about a way to seal that up. Knowing what I know now, I would 100% spray foam the entire damn thing. I had a white roof put on and in the summer, it's like a freakin easy bake oven in there. I open the doors for the nice breeze, but the radiated heat from the sun on the metal is ridiculous. If you're having this put up, I ask your contractor to put screws in the rib of the roof, not the flats. I can't for the life of me, understand why anyone would put the screw hole in the flat where the water actually runs. Kind of on that note, make sure your panels run vertical and not horizontal, to permit maximum water run off. Make sure the drainage around your building can handle the amount of rain outflow for when we have these 10" of rain in a week monsoons. (one corner of my building pad floods with heavy rain) Also ask your builder if he will run a compactor over the crushed concrete or just track it in? It will make a difference in how long before it starts degrading.
Mostly...once it's done, get out and enjoy it! Hope you get to go out and strum that Dobro on a peaceful summer night and just listen to the nature and pic some good tunes.
Dave, Great points to consider! Thanks. The "dirt" guy and the contractor both said they need to bring in a red dirt (clayish I suppose) base about 3 or 4 " then bring in the Crushed concrete around 3 or 4 inches as well. The contractor said he has a site with the crushed concrete and he has heavy equipment and 18 wheelers driving across it. I will ask the contractor about these items. previous owner brought in 6 end dump loads of crushed concrete, one of his companies hauls a lot of it, it is now most of our parking area out front. like dave said, have them run a compactor over it a few times, it will help. 
![[Linked Image]](https://texasfishingforum.com/forums/pics/userpics/2025/01/full-1606-257096-f106langleyuse2.jpg)
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: hopalong]
#14984160
02/10/24 07:11 PM
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 97,622
Bob Davis
OP
Bunkeroid Bob
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OP
Bunkeroid Bob
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 97,622 |
one suggestion I would make, put in a couple of passive vents in the gable or put in one with a thermostat controlled fan.
summertime you will thank me and so will any stuff stored there.
even a couple of 2/0x30 windows on the north/south exposures would be good. you can put up hardware cloth on the inside for security.
even with the insulation it will get outrageously hot in summer. I will certainly bring this up as well. 
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984177
02/10/24 07:35 PM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 10,715
Space
TFF Guru
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TFF Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 10,715 |
Insulate the entire building and no ridge vent maybe windows for cross ventilation.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984181
02/10/24 07:45 PM
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,178
Leonardo1
TFF Team Angler
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TFF Team Angler
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,178 |
Turn the building. Have two roll up doors. I have that exact design and have not been happy with it.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984213
02/10/24 08:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 280
tangledup3
Angler
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Angler
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 280 |
You mentioned the peak is 16’. Actually the sidewalls should be 16 minimum for your Rv to fit in the center of the lean to. I would do a 2:12 pitch on the roof and a 1:12 pitch on the lean to.also consider the purlins will be hanging down an additional 6 or 8 inches under the lean to.hope this makes sense.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Leonardo1]
#14984216
02/10/24 08:30 PM
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Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 22,817
YEE_YEE
TFF Guru
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TFF Guru
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 22,817 |
Turn the building. Have two roll up doors. I have that exact design and have not been happy with it. Two twenty foot bay doors on each end.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984247
02/10/24 09:12 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 17,896
bloo_rainger
TFF Guru
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TFF Guru
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 17,896 |
IMO you need that rear roll up door. Why go to the expense of building it and not going thru with making it right? Being able to pull thru is a game changer. I agree, but the backside slopes down into the woods. It would require hauling in a ton of dirt and shoring and additional concrete. The driveway will allow more than enough room to pull completely perpendicular to the door and back the boat in.  Don’t build it for the boat you have. Build it for your new boat that hasn’t been delivered yet. 
ALL HAIL TRUMP
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984363
02/10/24 11:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 410
angleiron
Angler
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Angler
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 410 |
Things I've learned with my shop Bob. The roofs' ridge allows leaves and bugs in. When the rain is blowing, rain gets in there too. Ask about a way to seal that up. Knowing what I know now, I would 100% spray foam the entire damn thing. I had a white roof put on and in the summer, it's like a freakin easy bake oven in there. I open the doors for the nice breeze, but the radiated heat from the sun on the metal is ridiculous. If you're having this put up, I ask your contractor to put screws in the rib of the roof, not the flats. I can't for the life of me, understand why anyone would put the screw hole in the flat where the water actually runs. Kind of on that note, make sure your panels run vertical and not horizontal, to permit maximum water run off. Make sure the drainage around your building can handle the amount of rain outflow for when we have these 10" of rain in a week monsoons. (one corner of my building pad floods with heavy rain) Also ask your builder if he will run a compactor over the crushed concrete or just track it in? It will make a difference in how long before it starts degrading.
Mostly...once it's done, get out and enjoy it! Hope you get to go out and strum that Dobro on a peaceful summer night and just listen to the nature and pic some good tunes.
Dave, Great points to consider! Thanks. The "dirt" guy and the contractor both said they need to bring in a red dirt (clayish I suppose) base about 3 or 4 " then bring in the Crushed concrete around 3 or 4 inches as well. The contractor said he has a site with the crushed concrete and he has heavy equipment and 18 wheelers driving across it. I will ask the contractor about these items. If they install peak sheets correctly, there is no way for leaves to blow in. Even if ridge roll and foam closures are used correctly, you will not have a leak or leaves. The screws are designed to go in the flats. If you have leaks, someone didnt install them correctly.
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: kennerdude]
#14984367
02/10/24 11:54 PM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,074
bronco71
TFF Team Angler
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TFF Team Angler
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,074 |
This is what we put on ours. ![[Linked Image]](https://texasfishingforum.com/forums/pics/userpics/2024/02/full-94939-213755-img_4665.jpeg) Those flow a LOT of air! I have several to put on my shop when I get the roof on.
1987 Nitro MX185/Mercury Black Max 150 (needs lots of work, put motor on nephew's boat) 1994 XSC-2200 "Jaguar" AKA Shadow 22 Magnum (restoring w/Mercury 200 XRI) 1994 Pantera II (restoring w/Mercury 200 EFI) 1999 Triton TX21/225 Mercury Optimax
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984386
02/11/24 12:14 AM
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 58,218
RayBob
Super Freak
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Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 58,218 |
That is cool, you can slide the boat around then right? Yes
Advice? Wise men don't need it. Fools won't heed it !
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Re: Metal building advice
[Re: Bob Davis]
#14984404
02/11/24 12:33 AM
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 27,774
ReelBusy
TFF Guru
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TFF Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 27,774 |
Are you going with 15-16ft side walls? You'll need to if you want 14ft clearance on that lean-to. You might consider running the main roof over the open lean-to area, basically a single roof line. That would move your rollup door more to center anyway and be inline with your driveway. That way if you decide to close it in later it would be easy.
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