Thanks for the clarification. I am used to it taking quite awhile for the results to show and was surprised that it would work that quickly. I thought it was something new.

Always good to have folks clarify my clarity.

I sprayed MSMA three weeks ago and killed my Dallas Grass problem and Nutsedge, my Bermuda yellowed but is coming back. 2 oz. per gallon when it starts to yellow, hit it again.

That nut grass has a root system that looks like a backlash.
The roots are linked together.
I think that’s why it’s so hard to kill.

I’ve had great success with image.
I usually spray it early in the spring according to the temperature recommendation.
It will usually knock the grass back some but it will snap back pretty quickly.

I will be using my theory early next year.

Bloo I would tread very lightly with this approach. There is no temperature restrictions on it but when to apply it. Image is not a product you want to apply coming out of winter into spring.transition. The reason you saw it knock back grass is its a growth stopper for about a 2-3 week period. Granted like you mentioned it will bounce back for the most part but I have seen nice lawns ravaged by Image sprayed at the wrong time, late winter to early spring. Label states this too. Assuming you're hose end spraying. Better approach would be something like Sedge Ender early (sulfentrazone) and keep Image as your go to in summer for a follow up app. Nutsedge will be a never ending battle depending on your drainage. I have every chemical known to man and still get it. Sedge Ender has Prodiamine pre emergent in it. Which most of y'all forget to apply in winter for spring. So maybe that's a bonus?

Hi Derek

When you state "Which most of y'all forget to apply in winter for spring.", are you referring to the fall application of Prodiamine, or is there also a winter application needed?

THANKS
MAK

The winter/spring application in February.

Nutsedge still sucks...post count thing.

good drainage helps as nutsedge likes it wet