You dudes are killin it. I can’t even boogie board.

I've surfed some amazing spots while living on the W Coast. My largest day of surfing was 12-15' waves on Camp Del Mar Beach. The Southwest was humming and producing some epic waves. It was a bear to paddle out, so when you hit the outer break, you rested. After making it out and resting for several minutes, I watched as my friends would drop in, disappear as the wave crest began, then you'd see them pop up in glory or in disappointment. We had a buddy with us, never really big into surfing, but went with us to hang. He decided to drop in on one around 10'. As he went to pull in right, the wave broke early and slammed him hard. We immediately rushed to his aid, pulled him to shore, and told him no more. He gladly agreed and sat and watched.

So I start my journey back out after the first thrashing, then the rescue, and the paddle back out. I'm spent, easily an hour worth of cardio. As I make my way to the resting zone, I see a crest, I'm like yep, that's the one. I line myself up, start paddling, drop in and slide into the line. The barrel starts to form this perfect almond delight. The barrel was big enough to drive a VW bug through it. I'm deep in this barrel and know if I don't get speed I'm going to be pummeled. So I lean into my board, pick up speed, and come shooting out in the mist / foam of the barrel. Little did I know that several folks on the beach had stopped to watch. As I poked out, I could hear cheering and whistling. I pull a couple quick slashes to end the ride. I looked back out to the ocean and said, you know what, I'm good for today. Rode into the shore break rode a few smaller waves and called it a day.

One thing that kills me, we didn't have cell phones then, so there was no evidence of this other than mine and my friends who were there.


One surf spot that I did once and never again...THE WEDGE!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3K2y8cgATA

Took those dudes a few sets to get the ski to him there! That was wild.

Great thread. Some cool videos and stories here.

Avid basser, that’s a cool story. You should be glad there weren’t any cell phone vids. It’s way better living in your head. Thanks for sharing with us.

Thanks! We were in our HS (teenage) years living in So California. Spent most of my time on a board of some sort. Skateboard, body board, surf board, or snow board. Looking back, I truly miss those days of only working to have enough to pay rent, eat, and surf. AHAHAHAHAH

If you guys want to watch some massive waves and some cool story lines...HBO / MAX has a series called "100 Foot Wave." It follows some of the most prolific big wave surfers and their journey's to catch the next world record.

I've met Garrett McNamara and he's quite a guy, quiet at first until he feels you out.

Those extreme surfers/skiers/snowboards all have had mild traumatic brain injuries or worse. They are permanently different.

Nah, you can just "walk it off".

That's what everybody used to say back in the day right after we just got our sh** rocked. Walk it off.

We're all probably a little bit dumber for all the times we "walked it off".

Not only walk it off, but walk it off and get back in there.

Terrible, terrible advice.

Rub some dirt on it....that's what I've heard several times in my childhood. I know I've lost a few braincells due to BMX riding, surfing, skateboarding, aggressive skating, etc. After a few jolts to the ole noggin' I wore a helmet.