I'm going to run a dedicated circuit directly from my cranking batter for my electronics. At the bow I need power for the Minn Kota puck, two Helix 10s, Mega 360 and Hydrowave plus maybe a couple wires for the future. I was planning on using a Blue Sea Systems fuse block mounted in the rear of a rod locker so I can easily get to the fuses and then run 12 gauge wires for each component to the bow, each run about 10'. However, for the negative wire, I was thinking of running one wire to the bow and use a buss bar for the negative connection for the individual components. That would seem to be cleaner and easier. Does anyone have an opinion on that set up, good or bad? Also, to power that fuse block I was thinking about using 8 gauge wire, it's about 13' to where I want to mount the block. I think at 13', 8 gauge wire has about 50-60 amps which seems to be 4 or 5 times the amount of power needed for all the electronics I have listed. I could probably even back off to 10 guage but I'd rather have too much versus not enough.

It all sounds good to me with you over sized wire. I have always over engineered things and kept the expense out of the project when possible. The one thing I would do, your ground wire, I would run it in at the least size of 10ga. The ground side of our electronics is a bigger concern since we have no chassis frame to ground things.

The hot wire bringing power to your bow, 10ga hot wire would put lots of divided power for different circuits. I would also look for a place to mount the P panel under the dash, as it's more protected there. Just how I have done this. Put you some of the dielectric Grease in all your connections.

I also twist my new wires that I run. Twisting up a red and black 10ga pair to your new P panel, you get several benefits, one being they help uncouple RF interference another benefit is the two wires twisted run better through areas under the gunnel. I use my drill to twist up lengths of wire pairs I plan to run. Hold the other end in my vice, but a buddy holding the other end clamped tight works also. Just make sure you make the length longer, as you twist these two up they get shorter. This is a great project you will have benefits from...

Run 8ga make sure it OFC fine wire. Braiding the wire is also a good idea for log runs.

The biggest thing is terminating ends! Use the correct size they should fit snug and not fall off if you flip it upside down.
Use the correct crimping tool and solder them in if at all possible.
Always use epoxy lined heat shrink on all connections.
Also I recommend using circuit breakers over fuses in marine applications.

this is the best wire you can run and it is super easy to pull, tinned marine wire.

https://www.amazon.com/Lawrence-Marine-Duplex-Tinned-Cable/dp/B00MI5NOCG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3JXC5MAMKLQWV&keywords=tinned+marine+wire+8+awg&qid=1681840524&sprefix=tinned+marine+wire%2Caps%2C1367&sr=8-3



I did what you are planning on doing, fuse block in bilge, ground buss bar in bilge, used 12ga. tinned to power 2 9" garmins and livescope, plenty of power.

Thank you for your feedback, that is helpful. I like the duplex wire idea or twisting it to make the initial pull easier. Having done some electrical connections in the past, I'd already invested in some nice crimpers and a heatgun. The right tools make all jobs easier and more enjoyable.