Anyone here smart enough to tell someone how much different the voltage used would be between a 24v system and a 36v system? I can’t see how 24v 50ah would be enough. I used 10amps in 1.5 hours yesterday.

So you recommend LESS run time for MORE money? Hmmmm

I am lost on the battery discussion! I have ran acid batteries for over 60 years, but since I now run a live scope and two birds on my cranking battery, I see my cranking battery voltage decrease during the day, I fish hard!!! I have a Minnkota Ultrex 24v and By end of day batteries struggling. I am looking for information on what batteries I need for t/m? and what AMP battery do I need for my cranking battery since all electronics run off that battery. I do not have room in back of boat for four batteries, (Ranger 188 aluminum). Will buy Lithumn batteries but want to make sure I am spending Money wisely.!!!

wild bill

I like the timer idea. What model timer did you get ? Some the ones I am looking at are only rated for 20amps . I have a 4x15 charger.

Bill, bigger AH is always going to be better. Sometimes lithium on the cranker is questionable, but that’s with older motors. But if you do decide to run a lithium on the cranker, it MUST be cranking approved. You can buy cheap lithium’s for the TM, but the cranker will be a name brand. Monster Marine has the largest cranking battery available, it is a beast and it’s expensive, but you won’t kill it.


I have a 125 ionic for my graphs and as a backup to my lead acid cranker. Then I bought 2 off brand (PowerUrUs) 100ah lithiums for my TM. I wanted to have an app available for all of my lithiums, so my choices were limited. If you don’t care about an app, get the LiTime (or Chins or Weize) 100ah lithiums for your TM.

If you want an app for your lithiums, you can get: SOK, RoyPow, PowerUrUs, Monster, Ionic, PowerHouse.


Price is always a factor. Don’t forget that you’ll probably need a new charger for the lithiums and make sure you get the measurements of the lithiums, some are different sizes.


Watch Will Prowse on YouTube and he breaks the batteries apart and will show you what brands are good and which are junk.

I don't think they are worth the extra cost unless you have a need to get rid of the weight and already have a charger that will work with lithiums. I also wonder about the warranty issues. Easy to get warranty service even on a weekend for a lead acid if you buy it from the right place. But I just accept that I will get only 2-3 years on a TM battery and get mine from WM or Auto Zone. I do have issues with my current boat planing and porpoising and may make the change with the next set to reduce back end weight. My charger will do lithiums. If I do I will probably get 3 100ah batteries.

home depot, set and forget

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Interma...y-Timer-Black-HB11KD89/205478787#overlay

the output amperage on our chargers is dc, normal amperage on ac breakers is 15 or 20 amps.

my champion had to go on a crash diet when this got hung on it.

took out 3 grp 27 and one grp 24 flooded and put the ionics in, saved about 125# and added about 150# engine/new jackplate. worth every penny in my case.

Compared to what? I run 3 50ah ionics and only charge about every 3rd time out, unless I’m fighting a 20 to 25 mph wind all day.

50 amps are LESS expensive then 100 amps.
I know many guys from my bass club that run 3 50 amp Ionics and never run them down, even in 2 day events.

Remember this:

Nothing in bass fishing is worth the money. It's just a sport we all choose to play, and we all choose to spend our, hopefully surplus, money on.

If someone will buy rods and reels for $500 plus just to have the best, then they (we?) will spend a lot of money of lithium batteries just to have the best.

I just went that way because I wanted to. I believe it was not a sound financial decision, but I wanted the best and am well enough off I could afford them.

I'm 76 years old. I've fished all my life in various kinds of boats. I started out sitting on the bow of 14' aluminum jon boat, sculling with a paddle. Actually started in the back of the boat, paddling my Dad around.

I've spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on boats, motors, electronics, rods, reels, lures. You name it. I've bought it. Probably had just as much fun with the old jon boat sculling around small lakes and creeks. Probably caught more fish.

I've been in big bass boats for over 25 years. Until now always ran lead acid batteries. Just put $1700 worth of lithiums in the Skeeter, like I said, because I wanted to. It ran just fine last year on lead acids, and probably would again this year. Every 3 - 4 years, head for Wal - Mart, buy some group 29's at $120 per and fish the rest of my life. Yes, I tournament fish.

I can't make the dollars add up for lithiums, but I've got them and am glad I squandered the money.

My elementary school math is pretty outdated if three interstate series 27 batteries ($140.00ea) with average 7 year life is less cost effective than three 50 amp/hr lithium (~$700.00ea) with average 7 year life span.

There are no 50ah for $700, I’ve seen them for $150ea.

Fuzzy math but if you fished more often then 2-3 use years is more realistic for for those cr@ppy interstates. Also 50a Lithium's can be had for $200-350 ea and last 10 plus years.

I am currently looking into upgrading my TM Batteries.
Where are $200 50A Lithium's?