worth the money?

Does anyone use one of these?

I did this last year when I went to 3=Solix graphs and Mega 360.
Added a Perko disconnect after the battery and put in an X2 Group 31 AGM.
Best move I’ve ever made.

thanks for info

If you have the tools, talent and time, you can make a harness at least as good yourself.

If not, it's just money. High dollar game, anyway.

I have some reservation regarding some of these pre-made harness just from I've seen on the web. Not enough time to see if they will hold up or not.

I just ran a 8 ga. pair from the battery to the bow of my Skeeter, put a fused panel at the bow, ran direct from from the fuse panel to my graphs, etc No butt splices any where, just properly installed rings.

Couple hours work, but I have the tools and experience (and a little help).

good info

I went the diy route and built a harness for my Ranger RT178. I ordered marine tinned 8 ga wire, bought the same twist connectors SeaClear uses, tinned fuse pigtails and perko switch, etc. Watched several YT videos of their install to try and get the exact same components. At the end of the day, I may have saved $100 dollars.

If I were to do again, would most likely opt to buy their package harness system. I spent a fair amount of time researching and searching for the components to purchase online. Install was super easy. While I was doing all the work, I added Amped Outdoors Lithium batteries, one to just run my AT Module and one for all my other electronics. Very happy with the results.

Which ever way you choose to go, you will be glad you did.

Not picking on TGL, but reference to something he said and I read/hear it a lot. The AT/GLS10 modules, they don’t pull that much, the graphs pull more than the modules pull. Seems to be a lot of confusion with it and people think the modules are what’s draining the battery.

Grout-scout you are absolutely right about all the confusing information out there. We see a LOT of questions about what size/type battery for trolling motors, electronics, etc. Vendors or manufacturers of products making performance related claims, that in some cases are absolutely not accurate too.

With costs getting so high, folks like me (retired) want to make the right, or best decision possible and look to forums like this as a source for info to help make those decisions. Heck, I’ll surf the electronics section and see a post like “ does the HDS Carbon have this feature” and there are as many responses that say “yes” as those that say “no”.

With respect to my installation and the reason I went with two separate Lithium batteries, I had installed the SeaClear type harness months before I got Active Target. The location I chose for the module would have required additional wire to be ran. I decided to get a dedicated 19ah lithium instead thinking I could also use that battery in my kayak. I had a dedicated lead acid for the rest of my electronics (3 HDS 7s, one HDS 9, point one and Ethernet hub). My wife bought me a lithium for Christmas that I replaced the LA battery with. I am very happy with how the whole installation project came out. Took me about a year to get the setup I now have. NOW I need to learn how to be fluent at operating the whole system.

it can get confusing. I had guys saying that a 50ah lithium would be plenty for graphs, I had that sucker dead before the day was over. Best way I’ve found to learn, is by mistakes; but it sure isn’t good for the wallet!

Did the same. Just good 8ga wire to a fuse block and shortened all the factory wires on the ELECTRONICS to reach the fuse block without a lot of extra wire to loop up and crossing each other. Cost of fuse block wire and wire snake was under $70 total and might have taken 1-1.5 hrs. I forgot I also added a 3 way Perko 8501DPswitch at the battery to kill power to all electronics and also to jump in an extra battery if needed cost was around $42. So total cost $110