Back in the 80s when I was a young man and reading various articles on rod set ups, I soon learned that the lightest rod and reel combo we put together would be the most sensitive. That’s when I started reading the actual weight of the rod or reel before settling on a purchase.

I know that for specific techniques heavier rods are needed for their backbone or stiffness. However when shopping for a new rod for a specific technique the weight of the rod is still a big consideration for me today. Having the lightest rod and reel possible for your particular technique is going to enhance your ability to feel the slightest tinge of the line. This is the very reason rod builders start using lighter material like boron or carbon graphite to construct their rods.

Today many anglers still swear by glass rods for cranking but I personally prefer using the much lighter graphite cranking rods. When cranking you’re not looking for the slightest little bite but the sudden weight of the fish when the rod loads up. The lighter graphite cranking rod will be less strenuous on you over the coarse of the day and hundreds of casts because of its lighter weight.

For a finesse rod set up you won’t be looking for distance so a shorter rod will work and it will be lighter than a longer version of the same rod. Something to consider when so many are pushing the idea that longer rods are better. For me it all depends on preference and what you get used to but for sensitivity lighter is better.

The same goes for the reel you choose and the weight of reels produced has been geared towards making them as light as possible without compromising reliability. When I’m shopping for reels I’m not only considering spool width and gear ratio but also looking at the actual weight of the reel. If I’m comparing two reels in the same price range I’m going with the lighter one if there’s considerable difference of a few ounces. This may not seem like much but by the end of the day a heavier rod and reel will wear you down more. If you’re a competitive angler like I then you’re always looking for an edge.

Now for my line I like fluorocarbon because of its lack of stretch like monofilament. Keep your line tight helps to feel bites along with rod angle. Pair this with the lightest rod and reel for your technique and you have your ultimate setup. Lots of anglers prefer braid because of it’s lack of stretch and strength but I shy away from it unless I’m fishing heavy cover.

When possible I’m going to fish a heavier weight on the end of my line rather it’s a jig or Texas or Carolina rig. This allows me to keep my line tighter without moving my bait and feel everything it comes in contact on the bottom. With the heavier weight it allows for a faster fall and to cover more water by not having to wait as long for it to fall. Once on bottom I can drag it faster than with a lighter weight and keep it in contact with the bottom. On windy days a heavier weight will be easier to cast and allow you to keep your line tighter without your bait being moved by the wind. I use lighter weights when the fish are wanting a slower fall but you’re not going to cover as much water.

If you’re in a store you can read the weight of the rod on it but not usually at online stores. I’m not trying to get anyone to change brands or buy a cheaper or more expensive brand just trying to help those that might not be aware of any of this already. Hopefully this helps someone catch more bass. Tight lines!

The part about fluorocarbon lines lack of stretch is a myth. They stretch, some less than mono and some more.

Sure explains why that old Ugly Stick and 5600C wore my a** out way back in the day.

One of these days. I'm going to buy a Penn 10500 and Ill stick it on a 6' medium heavy.

If fluorocarbon stretches it doesn’t recover it reduces in size where it stretches. These reduced spots will cause it to be weaker and possibly break. It doesn’t stretch like monofilament which has a springy feel on hook sets while fluorocarbon is solid. This comes from the way the two lines are made. Mono under a microscope looks like a fish net and fluorocarbon is much more dense. I agree to disagree

My rod was way more sensitive in my 20's than in my 50's.


Probably just me though and not the equipment.

I see what ya did there!

It happens to the best of us...

Went from a punching rod to a drop shot rig...

My most sensitive rods are the NRX, the Shimano Adrena, and the Megabass Destroyer. Way above the others in sensitivity when you need it for the technique you are using.

Just because a rod is light in weight doesn't actually make it more sensitive. The sensitivity comes from what the rod is made from and the components on it. Many very sensitive rods are light in weight but it is because of of the quality of the graphite and the light components on it.

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