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Fly Fishing Gear Tips for New and Experienced Anglers

my biggest heartburn with fly fishing is the equipment is too light, and the rod designed to absorb the "fight" so the light tippets don't break... but what this causes is fatiguing the fish to exhausting levels to be able to land the fish, as everybody knows lactic acid builds in the muscles when taken to this level of exertion and increases high stress mortality rates if you plan on releasing the fish, if your a meat eater no big deal... in my long catch and release career I prefer to use heavy gear to quickly land the fish, so they can be released quicker reducing this lactic acid build up...I know to each their own, fly guys enjoy your sport to the fullest, I was just passing through...

Nothing preventing a person from using heavier (higher line weight rating rods) and higher weight rating tippets. Fly fishing isn’t bound by some rule a person must use light tippets and light rods. With Heavy enough tippet, a person can horse in a fish as fast as any other gear.

But, I’m going to disagree with this characterization of fly fishing of yours as stated in the quote as far too narrow and not really informed with all the facts. I do agree some styles use very light relatively fragile tippets on relatively large fish and so I would see that could present the problem of extended fights with the fish.

If someone wants to go about fly fishing with heavier gear to get fish in more quickly, there are certainly viable paths such as streamer fishing. Fly fishing isn’t all about trout sipping in tiny midges, nymphs and dry flies on 7X tippets. Take a look a Kelly Galloup meaty patterns articulated and big streamer gear.

It doesn’t take me any longer getting in LMB or redfish on my 7/8 weight CGR than it does a low profile baitcasting rig. But, I’m running with 15-20# test tippet. If I don’t put the fish on the reel, i can probably bring it in faster than someone reeling on a 6:1, 7:1 type of reel.

the only facts I can go on is all the fly fisherman I have come across over the years, having lived some time in an area full of streams and rivers that had the spring and fall runs of salmon and trout, not to mention the year round smallmouth bass that I was interested in...they all were rigged about the same - light... but I get your point, because I have seen the tuff guy's banging 100+ pound Tarpon in the Key's on salt water fly tackle, that gear is stout !...sorry didn't mean to ruffle any feathers...

Just a few comments on rod weights, species and fly sizes. Yes, a good graphite 5 weight will serve for tossing small flies to trout on fine tippet, and that's the challenge. In rivers like the San Juan (highly recommended), you usually need to drift size 24 midges on essentially 2 lb. tippet.. But sometimes, you can change to an 8 wt. on the Juan, and strip streamers on no less than 10 lb. line because they'll slam it. Which rod you chose depends on the size, weight, and resistance in air of the fly you're tossing. Here in TX, the 5 wt. works here for white bass, crappie, and gills. The 8 wt for stripers/bass. Fiberglass is cheaper and sturdier...I saw someone above mention Cabela's CGR. I've bought these for $40, but I haven't seen them go on sale for a few years, but this is a great 8 wt. Most fiberglass rods are "noodles"...they'll bend in a tight arc when fighting a big fish. I cheat a little, and use corn to catch big carp on my CGR 5/6 weight, and it's a great rod too and has a fighting butt. Hook a 10 lb carp using a 15 lb leader, and you can get that rod tip just above your ear while fighting it. Back to the 5 wt., fun throwing jigs with yarn indicators for spawning crappie...similar to slip/cork method using spinning gear. I think water temperature plays a large role with trout if you're concerned about releasing them. So, which rod to buy first? In trout states, the 5. In "freshwater" and coastal areas, you might start with an 8.

No, there’s definitely an obsession with some folks going as light as you can and then some. I see that happen with the other gear, spinning and baitcasting, too, though.

I think that the concern for going too light is legitimate, certainly with fragile type fish like cold water trout and salmon in high pressure catch and release waters.

All of it starts getting weird with these movements like in Europe in some countries where they have banned catch and release fishing, period. You still can fish, but must stop when you have caught the limit. Or the fish without hooks, just a fly on a straight piece of metal.

I’m glad I fish where the fish are abundant and robust.

Fly rods and equipment are not "light." Sure, if your only experience is trout/panfish setups, then I can see where you are coming from. However, there are lot's of "meat chuckers" who throw large streamers and bugs, even for trout, that use stout equipment. I fly fish for Muskies with an 8 Wt and 11 Wt, and regularly throw flies in the 2-5 oz range that are 12"-15" long. Offshore salt sticks can go way heavier. For Bass, that 11 Wt will be put to use all day long, and I've already gotten Bass in the 5# range with zero issues with the 8 wt since moving down here.

Here's a 50# class Muskie on the fly
https://youtu.be/Tzt2OYe889s

Too light?? For what? 200-pound class tarpon, 100-pound class sails, 100-pound class GT's , 50-pound class Roosters are just a few examples of my saltwater experiences with fly fishing equipment.

Light tippets? I've used straight 130-pound test mono tippets on GT's...so strong you better have someone helping hold you on the sand or risk being pulled in. LOL.

Freshwater? 50-pound class king salmon, 20-pound class rainbows, and so on.

No, no the equipment isn't too light. There is ample opportunity for matching fly equipment to the intended species. Its the anglers choice.

HAHAHA... instead of pulling out one line out of my statement and building your case that you use your fly rod to pull trucks out of ditches in the winter time, read the entire thing... there is a point there, i'm not just trying to call y'all a bunch of limp wristed fisherman... heck I've landed several 30lb+ carp in Lake Erie on an ultra light spinning rod with 4lb test fishing for perch, they all took over an 1hr and a half to get in because as soon as I got them close they would strip 100 yards off the reel...but, to my point when they were finally released they could barely swim off they were that wore out - it was a carp I didn't care...why I'm even arguing this I don't know...but your missing the point, the point is on average - "average", a fly rod setup is such that it's "method" of landing fish is to wear them out to land them, since light tippets and small hooks are used so to avoid breaking the tippet or pulling the hook free, the loooong rod is a noodle to help absorb the stress of the run and help wear the fish down, and low reel drag with feathering the reel with light pressure from the fingers is the norm to help not break the line or pull the little hook free... to say this is not the case is to call all your brothers who came before you and made videos showcasing this past time in detail liars and fakes... exhibit A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_MS9K7e5-o listen to what your people say, Orvis guys - would you agree they know what they are talking about ? or this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afN9i6gEhec note what he says over and over - " tire the fish out ", on average the fly fishing method is to tire the fish out to land it - tire out: To exhaust, fatigue, or deplete the energy...so to my point, I don't have to say it again do I... thanks for playing guys, it was fun...have a great evening.

I can understand what you are saying and partially agree. Far too many "pros" (they are not really pros or are dated comments) preach just what you have mentioned. Yet the point other responders want to get across to the readers is that the tippet and rod weight are a choice for the angler. Most of my associates utilize heavier tippets in order to land decent size fish quickly, and small fish in a few moments. This minimizes damage and wear/tear on the fish. A 3# fish on 10 lb tippet, 8 wt rod is way more fun than the same fish on 10# line and a light spinning rod or baitcaster, IMO. In my opinion I use fly gear because 1. I enjoy casting 2. I feel the fight more. 3. You feel the tug/fight better especially when hand stripping. If you do opt for fly gear, choose rod weight and tippet strength appropriately. And for the fishes' sake, learn how to fight the fish correctly. Most fisherman landing a fish that is worn out do not apply nearly enough pressure. Do a dry land test of your rod using 6 lb, 10 lb and 16 lb tippet and 2 lb to 10 lb weights BUIT avoid the high stick error (no Orvis look alike 180 degree poses) Keep rod to fish angles at 90 degrees or less.

I can understand what you are saying and partially agree. Far too many "pros" (they are not really pros or are dated comments) preach just what you have mentioned. Yet the point other responders want to get across to the readers is that the tippet and rod weight are a choice for the angler. Most of my associates utilize heavier tippets in order to land decent size fish quickly, and small fish in a few moments. This minimizes damage and wear/tear on the fish. A 3# fish on 10 lb tippet, 8 wt rod is way more fun than the same fish on 10# line and a light spinning rod or baitcaster, IMO. In my opinion I use fly gear because 1. I enjoy casting 2. I feel the fight more. 3. You feel the tug/fight better especially when hand stripping. If you do opt for fly gear, choose rod weight and tippet strength appropriately. And for the fishes' sake, learn how to fight the fish correctly. Most fisherman landing a fish that is worn out do not apply nearly enough pressure. Do a dry land test of your rod using 6 lb, 10 lb and 16 lb tippet and 2 lb to 10 lb weights BUIT avoid the high stick error (no Orvis look alike 180 degree poses) Keep rod to fish angles at 90 degrees or less.

Great discussion gents. Moral of the story? Use what you want, no need to keep things light.