when flipping docks, tighten the knob by the crank just enough to where you get a tiny bit of side to side spool movement. On the other side, take the side plate off, push all of the weights in towards the center, then turn the brake knob to zero, use you thumb for control and let that baby sling! If this isn't the way you have your reel set when flipping docks, then your doing it wrong.

That's how I keep mine.

So pushing all the weights to the center is a "faster" setting? I try to offset my weights so that the opposite sides match...either at center or outer setting. Would it matter if I had two side-by-side weights close to the center with the rest out?

Offset is not needed. Think about a figure skater - arms out = slow; arms in = fast.

Did you ever lean back on a merri-go-round and then pull up to centerline to increase speed?

Yep, not a brake at all. It is simply tightening the spool, which affects how freely the spool can spin during the entire cast.

The only difference I know is if you backlash on the start of your cast adjust the knob on the right side or under the handle of the reel. If you backlash at the end of your cast then adjust the brakes on the left side or opposite the handle of your reel.


Jody

Now THIS makes sense ^^^^^^ thanks Jody

Except it's just the opposite..

And now we know why I’m confused

My first baitcaster was pretty easy to adjust:



I hadn't used it for decades, but I got it out last summer and used it several times fishing a pond with a topwater and caught several on it. Then one hit it as I was about to lift the lure into the boat and it surprised enough that I forgot there is no anti reverse and I got a horrendous backlash. I picked it out and was a little more careful after that.

My father gave me his old Ambassador 5000 after I became reasonably good with the Plueger and then bought himself a new one. I still have both of the old reels and still use them at times. I've owned baitcaster from every era since then, and they do keep improving them. I have some with magnetic brakes, some centrifugal, and some have both.

I haven't really figured out much of an advantage to having both on a reel. I usually turn on a couple of the centrifugal levers opposite each other and then fine tune it with the magnetic brake. Is that the way most of you guys do it, or is there a better way? I don't fish tournaments and get to talk to the folks that really know about such things; most of my fishing partners know less than I do. Thanks

Chris G and Rayzor explain it well in there posts above.

They answered the OPs question very well and explained how to set the tension knob and then the brake, whether centrifugal or magnetic. That basic design hasn't really changed since the Ambassador 5000 became available back in 1950s. But what I was asking about is the newer and more expensive reels that have both centrifugal and magnetic brakes. The design of the one I have requires you to remove the side plate and set the centrifugal brake, then put the plate back on and set that magnetic brake. I was just saying that I haven't seen any real advantage to having both, but maybe there is something I don't understand.

The one reel I have that has both works very well, but so do the others that have just one type.

I can only comment on what I have found and what works for me. I use right handed reels and what I said works just fine for me.

Jody Kea

Both of these are correct in stating just how each knob is used for adjusting your reel correctly.

On the knob away from the reel handle it either uses some type of centrifugal brake system, some use magnets, and Lews makes ones that uses both weights and magnets. The knob by the reel handle works the same on every reel. As you crank it down it applies more pressure on the shaft of the spool which makes it harder to rotate, thus slowing down whatever it is you have tied on. How tight you make this knob depends on the weight of the bait you are throwing and you have to adjust it according to that. The other knob also slows down the rotation of the spool depending on how you set the magnets or the brakes or both depending on the reel you have. Its really not that hard to adjust your reel correctly. Another thing that is important is to balance your rod action to the technique you are going to use. I often see people using too stiff a rod for the light weight bait or too heavy line for the light weight bait they are trying to throw. Also you don't need to try and bomb a cast, especially if you are still learning how to use a bait caster.

If you keep having backlashes then I would suggest you get a Daiwa Tatula SV TW. Tie on your bait and turn the tension knob by the reel handle to the point when you are holding out your rod and press the button your bait falls to the ground and you have a very slight over run, very slight... Now turn the magnets on the other knob to full on. #20 You can now make a long cast without even thumbing the spool.
As you practice you will be improving so you can then start backing down on it, lower the number 1-2 clicks at a time and so on as you get better. I have my final setting on my SV reels at 10 on the magnets.