I am looking to go from traditional lead to lithium batteries to power my trolling motor. Does anyone know if there are any restrictions on installing the batteries in the sump? I have an older boat and my sump also has fuel tanks and an oil Reservoir along with my cranking battery.

Thanks for the help!

Ionic 12V 50 are what I put in my boat very impressed with them and glad I made the purchase.

What's the advantage or running a single 36v over 3 12v?

No restrictions just a sketchy warranty. Id stick with lead if I was you.jarrett coolness factor,.....weight and bilge pace I guess.

90 percent of lithium batters come from 2 plants but are assembled in the US. Just make sure to have good insurance and back up battery’s when fishing out of town. Some will get low and require a special jump to get started or short out internally

Serious question- Are the folks that have issues with lithium just not posting about it? I haven't seen or heard of a problem like those, nor experienced one myself in a couple years of ownership and heavy use. I have been blown away by my lithium set up and I had pretty high expectations to start with.

there hasent been many issues with lithium

I'd think the disadvantage is if your 36v goes out you have nothing. If one of the 12's goes out you can always run to Wally world and grab a lead acid. I'm about to install a Ghost and go to 24v with 2 12's. Taking off about 90 pounds of weight.



Walls what brand and size are you running? Where did you buy, etc? Thanks!!

Ionic 125AH starting battery from Andy (Drewtick on BBC) and three 60AH Amped Outdoor brand for my Troller. I would've gone all Ionic if I could've swung it because the bluetooth capability and app are awesome on the Ionic (And Andy has GREAT service), but I was able to get a nice discount on the Amped batteries (on their website) and honestly the extra 10ah over the Ionics was a factor.

Can’t jump the starter battery with a single 36v...make sure your phone stays charged so you can call for help.

Even if an angler has three separate Lithium batteries for the TM, the BMS module will "trip" (like a breaker) and not allow the amps that would likely be required to jump-start an outboard connected to a dead or near-dead battery. The best you could do is connect two in parallel (but not with 24 or 36V batteries), then hope the amps don't trip it while you let the Lithium dump charge into the starting battery. I would not risk doing this for fear of frying a Lithium battery.

The safest solution is to carry an adequate Lithium-based "jump-starter" that weighs only a few pounds and is portable. I carry mine in the truck, then move it into the boat when going fishing. I've started a 6.2L V8 with mine when all the starting battery would do is click the solenoid. Never trust the stated amps in the marketing blub for deciding size. I went with the alleged 2000A model (vs. smaller), and have never had any issue starting any motor so far.

There is less to explode with Lithium. Conventional lead-acid batteries can gas-off hydrogen, which is very explosive. Some will tell you the dangers of water and Lithium, but they would be outdated concerns. The "Lithium" cells used today use an Iron-Phosphate formulation, and that doesn't have the undesirable reaction to water as prior chemistry did.

Saved space is an advantage. One single battery can have less stored energy than is possible in THREE 12V batteries of the same physical case size, should you somehow consider that to be an advantage. Expect to run out of juice earlier with a single 36V battery. You need to compare total watts of energy stored in the one battery vs. three of whatever else you are considering. Batteries are essentially electrical fuel tanks; which solution do you think can hold more energy?

I have a portable NOCO battery charger I purchased for general use. It has an override button to disable the "smart charger" circuit's lack of being able to sense a connected battery if the battery is as low as 0V. Push the button, poof, the charger activates anyway. This should provide that "special jump" to go about my business should any issue occur. I'm not sure what "short out internally" you are referring to. Care to elaborate?

I'm running a Ghost with three 100AH Lithium batteries, so even if I have a battery issue out on the water, I can easily reconfigure to run a 24V system, leaving the problem battery out of the circuit. A voltmeter will easily allow for the isolation of a failing battery to know which one to disconnect.

PSA: Be aware if you use a Ghost and wish to change between 24V and 36V there is more required than just reprogramming the Ghost at the foot pedal. You must also change the series battery wiring to match the mode you program (24V or 36V).