Dan, sent you a PM

I have 2 solutions to help with the kayak sliding I use when loading a kayak on the roof of my vehicle from the side.
1) put rope from back of kayak to door at middle of vehicle This keeps the back from sliding away from the vehicle.
2)make big loop with strap and put around front and back cross pieces, other side hangs down side of car. when I lift the bow of the kayak up, slip the loop over it and tighten the loop down but not so tight I can not lift back up and push onto the roof.
This keeps the bow from sliding to the front or rear of the vehicle as I am lifting. It is not possible to stop the slide once you see if without the strap. My kayak slipped of 2 times before I figured this trick out and the second time cost me the drivers side mirror.

This is a skill I need to learn. I usually beach my Native Slayer Propel by the ramp and make a couple of trips to carry the heaviest stuff to the truck. Then, I use a paddle to hit the actual ramp. I pull the kayak out of the water, put it at a pretty good angle, and lift it onto the CTug. I put a towel behind the wheels of the cart so it doesn’t roll back. Sometimes it works great, sometimes it works good enough to get out of the way and then reposition the kayak. Sometimes, it’s a total failure and I have to reset.

Easy. Put the bow up on the ramp and remove anything in the way behind the point where you want it. I generally have two Scotty fly rod holders on 6" extensions behind the seat; I remove extensions and all. With the strap cinched tight on its loosest setting slide the C-Tug up under the stern. Holding the strap, guide it up to your mounting point and cinch it down. Very easy. Much easier than my homemade PVC kayak cart, which wanted to float and made centering it under the hull a hassle.

Proper lifting technique will eliminate back pain, lift with your legs not your back

I took a couple of pictures that will hopefully help you with the buckle on the ctug.
Below is a picture of the buckle. My thumb is on the top of the buckle on the lever you push down to open the jaws just to the right of my thumb


Next shows the strap going under the buckle, up through the jaws and out the top.


Finally you have the strap through the buckle and would want to pull it back to the side it came from, to the right in the picture below.


The strap without the buckle comes over to the buckle, up through the jaws from the bottom and then is pulled back to the side it started on to tighten.

I tried loading the kayak onto the submerged ctug with the back of the kayak in the water so I did not have to lift it at all and it worked out pretty well.
Made sure to always be holding onto a strap so ctug did not roll further into water where I could loose it.


I like the idea about sliding the loosely buckled strap over the stern and then into place. Will try this next time and alleviates issue with ctug rolling down ramp under water.

Jim Ford,
I tried this Tuesday night and it worked very well I will switch over to doing this from now on.
Thanks for the great idea!

Thanks for the pics! I am going to try to make my C-tug work and try this.

My yak came with one, previous owner included it in the deal, but i never really used it as the buckle is not rigged right and for the life of me could not find any instructions on how to rig it up. Its for sure not intuitive.

this

Dan90210,
The end of the strap connected to the buckle(side towards palm in pictures above) goes around the end of buckle which does not open and is sewn together.
If you have questions about the ladder locks the end of the straps that go through the hull pads the following video clearly shows how to rig these up. You can make adjustments at the ladder locks to adjust the length of the straps.
I have my straps adjusted so the buckle is just a little over 1/2 way to the other side of the kayak. The other strap reaches most of the way to the other side of the kayak.
Important thing is you have plenty of length to get the end into the buckle then are able to get a good grab on it to pull tight. Also not so long that buckle is at other side of the kayak.

Sorry, forgot the link.
C-TUG Strap Adjustment

Just for the sake of clarification, the buckle in the video above, posted by Ocelot, is different than the buckle that came with my C-Tug several years ago. That original buckle was the source of a lot of frustration. The strap routing was not intended to work the way most folks instinctively did it, and the buckle would slip. If that's the case here, PM me and I will dig out my C-Tug on my days off, video the process, and text the video to whoever needs it.

I made something that could very well be what you are looking for. I originally made this for a Hobie Tandem Island. Imagine if what I am about to show you works for a TI how it will do with something much lighter. The wench is powered by a drill. You will not have to mount anything to your vehicle or operate from your vehicle's battery. If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call. 832-588-7091

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOqIIMVXSDw

That drill winch system is cool!
Nice!