I have a Humminbird Helix 9 (with DI, SONAR and GPS) and a Helix 7 (with DI and SONAR). I have been completely unsuccessful in finding the proper settings to allow me to see true arches for each fish. The best I can get is a dot or blob....never an arch. This is even when I am sitting over a school of stripers that are trying to tear the rods off the boat. I just don't get it. What am I doing wrong?

Also, I am considering upgrading to an Ultrex trolling motor. Do they link to these units at all?

I appreciate your feedback.

Depending on which helix 7 you but it will link with the Helix 9. Now the best way to see arches is 83kHz which gives you a wider cone angle meaning the object stays in the coverage area longer. The 200 has a smaller coverage area so it's harder to get the fish to show a complete arch in the smaller cone. You need to be moving as well. If you are sitting still or barely drifting the transducer continues to ping the same target over and over. About 2.5 -3 mph usually works good

Concerning the Ultrex, the iPilot LINK version connects to Humminbird units via Ethernet for the "Follow the Contour" with Lakemaster mapping, more waypoint storage, and more Track storage.
All versions of the Helix 9 can do that.

Only the G2N Helix 7 versions can do that and the G2N is the only ones that can connect to the Helix 9 models.

Both versions of the Ultrex (iPilot and iPilot LINK) have the US2 transducer that will work with any SONAR model. US2 has no Imaging capability.

Sent you a PM.

That's the only thing I hate about birds. I use mine strictly for si and gps. I can have my lowrance on and see all types of fish and Baitfish then look at my bird and it will be a desolate wasteland. Play with your sensitivity and it will get a little better

Send me what your settings are and I will see if anything stands out that you should try and change.

Check your transducer installation. I just discovered mine was around 15-20 degrees off. Long story short, I bought a Transducer Shield & Saver shield and wedge to install on my previous jack plate. When I got the Bob's jack plate, I just reinstalled the mount on the new hole shot plate. I kept wrestling with getting a good image and decided to check it.
There are several videos on YouTube on this but basically, the procedure is pretty simple using a torpedo level and some coins. I did not realize mine was as far off as it was. Certainly worthwhile if you are having imaging issues.

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This screen shot shows the difference between high and med CHIRP or 200/83 kHz with a Humminbird. As mentioned the wider coverage of the lower frequency is what produces the arches since there is more time and distance with its coverage.

Thank you for the very good info. I will get some screen shots of settings while I am dodging slab spoons with my daughters the next couple of days.

You've got good units. They're only as good as the install. Transducer angles are VERY important as the unit can only read the "return" signals. If its only getting half of the pings back that its sending out, then you will only get half as good quality on your screen. I was surprised at the difference it made on mine also. Torpedo level,coins,angle set "correctly" & it was a Whole new unit to me.
Then tweaking the settings REALLY made the imaging pop!!

Where can I find the correct way to level a bird transducer?. youtube?
Thank,s in advance.

I don't know if it is the "correct way" but I did mine this way.
Set a level in the floor of the boat and while at idle get a reading on the level. Load the boat and unhook it from the truck. Set the level back in the same spot in the floor and raise or lower the front of the boat until the level reads the same as it did at idle. Once you have the boat the same angle as it is when idling take the level and set it against the bottom of the transducer and set it level with the world.

If you have a scum line on the hull, you can use that to get an approx attitude for the transducer.

What you want is the face of the transducer level with the water's surface when at idle speed scanning.

Doing the "leveling" will not allow the transducer to give you high speed depth readings since the temp sensor end will be higher than the leading end.

Thank you sirs

The installations that come with the transducer has you adjust it to be on the same plane with the bottom of the hull. Since the bottom of the boat is never level in the water, that doesn't work. The easy method is:

With the boat loaded as you would have it fishing, and on a calm day, run the boat at the speed you will be scanning at. That's going to be between 2 & 6 MPH. I used 4MPH. Use a torpedo level and marking the placement of it so it will be set in the same position, use coins to get the bubble to show level. This can be on a gunwale or console, anywhere that is stable. Keep that batch of coins separate, you'll need them.
Once the boat is back on the trailer, put the level back in place and using the same coins under it. Raise the boat with the tongue jack so that the bubble slows level. This is the same attitude that the boat had when you were running at scanning speed.
Put the level on the bottom of the transducer and adjust it so that the bubble shows the transducer to be level. That puts the transducer level to the water when the boat is at that speed.
Tere are going to be variations depending on passer load, fuel, gear, etc. so you may have to adjust accordingly.
It sounds complicated but it's really pretty simple. There is also a video on Catfish Edge on how to do it.