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C-Rig, please school me #12083581 02/08/17 03:10 PM
Joined: Oct 2014
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B-Deuces Offline OP
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I am just now getting into throwing a C-rig. I know how to tie it, so dont go into that part.

What im looking for is tips and tricks that you may have figured out or been told that you believe has made you a better C-rig fisherman. Thanks!


Gensis 27:3 "Go now, take your weapons, your quiver, and your bow, go out into the field and hunt game for me."

Bryley Doucet
Moritz Chevrolet - 9101 Camp Bowie W Blvd, Fort Worth, TX - Monte Coon (817) 696-2003
Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12083601 02/08/17 03:14 PM
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kellisag Offline
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Don't set the hook straight up like you are flipping, it's more of a sweeping action

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12083620 02/08/17 03:22 PM
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LinkLowrance Offline
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I mainly just use it as a search bait (since that's what I was taught). I vary the speed while dragging it until the fish tell me how fast they want it. I always keep contact with the bottom, but that's just me. Hook set is pretty similar to a crankbait, sweep to the side and use a light wire hook and it will stick them.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12083671 02/08/17 03:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2008
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One trick I use:
- My Trig. is always pegged.
- If I am on a point fishing bushes and decide to work the point out to deep water.
- Just slide the weight up the line about 18 inches and make your drag off the point.
- This is a short term application as a few of these drags will not twist the line during the day.
- If I find the fish off the point then out comes the real Crig.

I like a light Crig. in 1/4 oz. for fishing and dragging over and around heavy grass, timber and bushes. It just doesn't get hung and cause a break off as often.


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Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12083689 02/08/17 03:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
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The first thing I would recommend is to take a trip with Mark Pack in the summer if feasible. I wasn't a big C-rig fan until I fished with him a couple times and now it is my go to method.

2nd- I believe a good rod makes a ton of difference. I prefer the G-rod Pro Bass 7'6" MH. I've heard good things about the Dobyns 784 too but don't have any experience with it.

I generally always use a 1 oz weight because I like to maintain good bottom contact. I also will use a glass bead between the weight and swivel and shake my rod every once in a while to clack them together and let the fish know I'm there. You'll get differing opinions on weight size and leader length, but it comes down to personal preference for the most part. Plus with the 7'6" rod and 1 oz weight, you can sling that thing and get it way out there.

I prefer a 36"-48" leader but may go longer if the water temp is cold. I always throw 20 lb floro mainline and will change up my leader weight based on water clarity. A lot of people will use braid for the main line, but I prefer the floro.

3rd- learn how to use and read your electronics, and trust what they are telling you. I graph, graph, and then graph some more until I find a good school positioned on some structure. Just for an idea, I have 384 hours on my boat and as of a week ago, 274 of those are idling. I believe its also very important to be aware of your surroundings and use references on land to mark the school as opposed to a marker buoy. There's two main reasons I don't like buoy's. 1 is I feel like it spooks the fish when you drop that giant piece of lead on top of them, and 2, that buoy has a tendency to attract boats. If its pretty windy and I feel like I really need to drop one, I make sure its a good 40-50' away from the fish and just cast past the buoy. This will help keep a line on them any how. Just keep in mind, sometimes when you graph over a school, you can spook them and they will flee from the spot. Generally I will exercise a little patience and let things settle down and give the fish time to move back to the cover before I even think about moving due to not getting bit.

4th- I fish SLOW, and just when I think I'm fishing slow enough, I slow down more. My rule of thumb is 5 minutes from cast till its back to the boat. I've never had luck fishing a C-rig fast, and if the fish do want a faster presentation I grab something else (heavy t-rig, jig, 10XD) I'm not saying you can't catch them dragging it fast, I just don't do it.

5th- Location, Location, Location. Read and study what makes a spot productive and why it is. I can't remember what author said it, but I live by the rule structure, structure, cover, cover. This means I'm looking for something like a main lake point with a road bed on it, or point next to a channel swing. Then, on that overall piece of structure, I'm trying to find two means of cover next to each other. Something like some rocks next to a tree stump, or bushes around timber. When all these things fall into place, it's generally a sweet spot. Sometimes two forms of cover isn't feasible so then I'll target isolated cover. I'm looking for anything that will hold fish in the area for a while. I also prefer points that lead ALL THE WAY to deep water. I'm a deep water fisherman so I subscribe to the Buck Perry theory that the home of the fish is deep water. I want a piece of structure that acts as a highway from deep water to shallow water. I believe the fish will move along that highway and stage at different depths as conditions permit. I'll just graph until I find where they are holding. Generally, I'll also take the approach that the smaller fish always move ahead of the larger fish as they are less affected by weather patterns and other factors. That being said, if I'm catching tons of small fish in the 10'-12' range, I'll move out and fish a bit deeper to see if I can get a bigger bite. Another thing to keep in mind is sometimes the fish want a different angle when your dragging a bait. Sometimes they want it moving from shallow to deep, sometimes opposite. I'll continue to circle the school making casts from different directions until I figure out which way they want it.


I hope this helps you a little and I'm sure you will get a ton of different feedback. Right or wrong,this is just MY $.02 and what works best for me.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: KHumpert] #12083744 02/08/17 04:36 PM
Joined: Nov 2014
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Bassslayerr Offline
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Originally Posted By: KHumpert
The first thing I would recommend is to take a trip with Mark Pack in the summer if feasible. I wasn't a big C-rig fan until I fished with him a couple times and now it is my go to method.

2nd- I believe a good rod makes a ton of difference. I prefer the G-rod Pro Bass 7'6" MH. I've heard good things about the Dobyns 784 too but don't have any experience with it.

I generally always use a 1 oz weight because I like to maintain good bottom contact. I also will use a glass bead between the weight and swivel and shake my rod every once in a while to clack them together and let the fish know I'm there. You'll get differing opinions on weight size and leader length, but it comes down to personal preference for the most part. Plus with the 7'6" rod and 1 oz weight, you can sling that thing and get it way out there.

I prefer a 36"-48" leader but may go longer if the water temp is cold. I always throw 20 lb floro mainline and will change up my leader weight based on water clarity. A lot of people will use braid for the main line, but I prefer the floro.

3rd- learn how to use and read your electronics, and trust what they are telling you. I graph, graph, and then graph some more until I find a good school positioned on some structure. Just for an idea, I have 384 hours on my boat and as of a week ago, 274 of those are idling. I believe its also very important to be aware of your surroundings and use references on land to mark the school as opposed to a marker buoy. There's two main reasons I don't like buoy's. 1 is I feel like it spooks the fish when you drop that giant piece of lead on top of them, and 2, that buoy has a tendency to attract boats. If its pretty windy and I feel like I really need to drop one, I make sure its a good 40-50' away from the fish and just cast past the buoy. This will help keep a line on them any how. Just keep in mind, sometimes when you graph over a school, you can spook them and they will flee from the spot. Generally I will exercise a little patience and let things settle down and give the fish time to move back to the cover before I even think about moving due to not getting bit.

4th- I fish SLOW, and just when I think I'm fishing slow enough, I slow down more. My rule of thumb is 5 minutes from cast till its back to the boat. I've never had luck fishing a C-rig fast, and if the fish do want a faster presentation I grab something else (heavy t-rig, jig, 10XD) I'm not saying you can't catch them dragging it fast, I just don't do it.

5th- Location, Location, Location. Read and study what makes a spot productive and why it is. I can't remember what author said it, but I live by the rule structure, structure, cover, cover. This means I'm looking for something like a main lake point with a road bed on it, or point next to a channel swing. Then, on that overall piece of structure, I'm trying to find two means of cover next to each other. Something like some rocks next to a tree stump, or bushes around timber. When all these things fall into place, it's generally a sweet spot. Sometimes two forms of cover isn't feasible so then I'll target isolated cover. I'm looking for anything that will hold fish in the area for a while. I also prefer points that lead ALL THE WAY to deep water. I'm a deep water fisherman so I subscribe to the Buck Perry theory that the home of the fish is deep water. I want a piece of structure that acts as a highway from deep water to shallow water. I believe the fish will move along that highway and stage at different depths as conditions permit. I'll just graph until I find where they are holding. Generally, I'll also take the approach that the smaller fish always move ahead of the larger fish as they are less affected by weather patterns and other factors. That being said, if I'm catching tons of small fish in the 10'-12' range, I'll move out and fish a bit deeper to see if I can get a bigger bite. Another thing to keep in mind is sometimes the fish want a different angle when your dragging a bait. Sometimes they want it moving from shallow to deep, sometimes opposite. I'll continue to circle the school making casts from different directions until I figure out which way they want it.


I hope this helps you a little and I'm sure you will get a ton of different feedback. Right or wrong,this is just MY $.02 and what works best for me.


id listen to this guy, practically everything hes saying is spot on.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12083984 02/08/17 07:20 PM
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ezbassin Offline
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If I am fishing around a lot of timber and dragging the rig over it I will switch from a 1oz weight to a 3/4 because I find that it will crawl over it easier. I also use lead bullet weights. I follow Paul Elias advice on leader length and he reels the weight up to the tip of the rod and has the bait hang somewhere between the last two guides. I like to use Zoom super flukes, Zoom baby brush hogs, LFT ring frys, Rattle snakes and baby snakes. Favorite color ring fry--chartruce pepper and Trophy Hunter in the snake and baby snake.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: Bassslayerr] #12084025 02/08/17 07:54 PM
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id listen to this guy, practically everything hes saying is spot on. [/quote]

except the part about waiting until summer to go out with Mark Pack
here it is Feb 8th and if you wait until summer to go out with Mark you sure have missed a lot of fishing with the c-rig
if you haven't figured it out by summer, by all mewans contact Mark Pack,,,,,,,,,but in the meantime, GO FISH

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: DBFishing83] #12084075 02/08/17 08:24 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
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KHumpert Offline
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Originally Posted By: flukeman83


except the part about waiting until summer to go out with Mark Pack
here it is Feb 8th and if you wait until summer to go out with Mark you sure have missed a lot of fishing with the c-rig
if you haven't figured it out by summer, by all mewans contact Mark Pack,,,,,,,,,but in the meantime, GO FISH



Too clarify, I suggested the summer because if we know anything about Texas, it's that its gonna get hot and there will be a good population of deep fish. If he goes now, he will most likely be dragging a jig (with Pack). Obviously you can still fish deep during the spawn but the fish population is going to be scattered shallow to deep. I guess I could have been more specific and said post spawn, but my biggest numbers with the most quality fish on Fork have always been during the summer. The only thing better than catching fish on a C-rig is catching a lot of fish on a C-rig. That was my reasoning behind summer. But I do agree, the only way to learn is to get out and fish.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084077 02/08/17 08:26 PM
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B-Deuces Offline OP
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Do you keep a constant tight line or leave it slacked until your next drag? What kind of bites do you typically feel?


Gensis 27:3 "Go now, take your weapons, your quiver, and your bow, go out into the field and hunt game for me."

Bryley Doucet
Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084094 02/08/17 08:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
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KHumpert Offline
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I keep a semi slacked line. You will feel them pick it up and run with it usually. It will just be a steady pull. When that happens reel down and give a slow sweeping hookset. No need to jerk it like a T-rig. You will miss a lot of fish doing that.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084112 02/08/17 08:41 PM
Joined: Oct 2014
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B-Deuces Offline OP
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for cold dirty water like many of our lakes now, does color matter all that much?


Gensis 27:3 "Go now, take your weapons, your quiver, and your bow, go out into the field and hunt game for me."

Bryley Doucet
Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084122 02/08/17 08:47 PM
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KHumpert Offline
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I like to keep it simple. I'm a watermelon red, green pumpkin, black blue type guy most of the year. My summer go to is the Chartreuse pepper though. Experiment with it until you find one they like. The main thing for me is if I graph fish and know they are there, and don't get bit in a few tries I'll try a different color.

Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084142 02/08/17 08:59 PM
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Fish2222 Offline
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Lots of good advice above. The only thing I don't understand is why guys peg the weight????It makes no sense.
The c-rig is effective in most situations because the fish is able to pick up the bait without feeling the weight of your sinker, allowing line to glide through the sinker increases the effectiveness of your hookset. I like GP, Black, Watermelon here in East Texas.

Last edited by Fish2222; 02/08/17 09:00 PM.

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Re: C-Rig, please school me [Re: B-Deuces] #12084336 02/08/17 10:49 PM
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1oldbassguy Online Content
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I use a C -Rig all the time , my PB is 12.4lb on a 4.5" straight tail worm .
I think bass are attracted to the weightless movement of whatever you put on the end of the leader .
My tip is simple , I hate tying up C-rigs when on the water . Take a pool noodle , cut off one foot in length , tie up about 10 leaders , varying hooks length of leader etc... Use a 1/2 paper clip to secure the swivel side . Fast and easy .

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