Got an email from a TFF bud about bluegill looking patterns. Got me started on a bream pattern binge. Trying different things to get the vertical bars on bream patterns to look more like reference pictures. Waves, dots, lines, mesh, art sponges...never ending . The photo is of a test bluegill pattern on a lure blank another TFF member paints and was kind enough to share his source. They are a lot like a DT 10 but have textured details and a smaller diving bill...guessing it'll get down to about 6-7 foot. Haven't fished one yet so this one is going into my lure box for some on the lake testing. The paint is mostly Createx Custom Airbrush Color...plus a couple of hand mixed colors. There's gold-ish glitter over the back...doesn't show up in the photo. Haven't applied the D2T finish yet.

That's really nice.

Thinking I missed the mark a little on this one but it'll do for starters. Had a chance to fish it yesterday...dives to about 8 foot and has a tight wiggle. Didn't catch anything on it but it does look like a baby bluegill when its just below the surface. Opaque Olive green back and vertical bars show up better than I thought they would. Down side is the bait helicopters when cast into the wind. You gotta' really whip it out there to make it stop tumbling. Casts fine otherwise.

As this post implies it takes practice to create a paint schedule that does the reference species justice. The first attempt at painting our reference image is in the books and we have a good starting point. After considering the colors selected in the first attempt changes and adjustments to the color scheme follow. In this photo colors have been added and removed resulting in the selection shown...all Createx Wicked colors.

A selection of stencils that are to be used for creating the scale effects, verticle bars and markings found on the reference species has been made. The stencils in the photo are a combination of custom made and retail offerings.

Before layering paint on the lure blanks our colors have been applied to a piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe. Attention to detail is not necessary here as this is only a test of the colors that will be overlayed on the lure blanks. Occasionally the color in mind isn't what we see when sprayed in layers over other colors...so it's best to test before getting too far along. The photos below show the color pattern as its intended, so its time to proceed with the second attempt at creating our reference image on a lure blank.

Here we begin with our four lure blanks already base coated with Opaque White. Its not necessary to use White in all cases...at times Black, or no base at all, will result in some very nice patterns. Almost any color can be used as a base, but again its best to test first as the results can be unexpected.

I tend to do things the exact opposite of this. I prep a bait with a base coat and get to paintin'. The bait is nothing but a blank canvas, and I try to reproduce a reference photo onto it. I have a pretty solid understanding of color, so getting the color I'm after is somewhat second nature. Years of watercolor painting is a huge help here. You way makes for much more consistent patterns. My way...well...who knows. I just keep painting until I like it. This is what keeps it interesting for me.

Thanks or your input. Pretty sure everyone who airbrushes lures has a technique all their own and that's what keeps it interesting. This post is just one of many methods to create and refine a paint schedule. Thought it might be interesting and maybe helpful, to those who are just beginning or thinking about trying to airbrush lures, to go thru the steps. More to come on this bream paint schedule...but for now heading to Florida for some R&R! Keep thinking good thoughts.

Sorry Boisarc, I found this thread VERY helpful, as i know many others have as well. I just found the stark contrast in approaches interesting. I've learned a great deal from all the TFFers who are willing to post their processes. Thanks.

Wow. That looks great. Good job.

I've never had much success with "natural forage" crank baits, but I really haven't spent much time throwing them. Hard to put down the SX Shad variants.

Is that a Rapala/DT blank?

I use bream pattern lures in areas where I know bream are abundant, and in their spawning areas. I even go to the trouble to try and match the species in the areas...bluegill, redear, redbreast...whatever is most abundant. It seems to pay off pretty well. However, during the warmer seasons, day in and day out, a shad pattern is hard to beat. The blank in the opening picture is a KO of the Rapala/DT. I have a few LC style lures on the bench ready to be painted in the same bream pattern. I'll post the painting process and results when I get a bit of free time.

Looks great to me. Stripes look spot on.

One of the places I regularly fish (and test patterns) has few shad (if any). The predominant forage is bluegill. I've caught fish on shad patterns there, but, by far, the most productive patterns are bluegill or craw patterns.

Picking up where we left off...a base coat of yellow is sprayed over the top part of the blank and around the gill and eye areas.

The bottom 1/3 of the blank is left with the white base showing from tail to bill. We'll come back later with the belly colors.

Small mesh is stretched over the blank and a wash of color is sprayed thru the mesh and over the yellow base to create a scale effect. Sometimes its necessary to change the mesh size to create smaller or larger scale in a particular area, like the small scale found on some species belly or gill plates.

Next step is putting some color around the gill plates and breast area. A light coat of yellow is sprayed over the breast area, avoiding the lower gill plate, followed by tightly stretching fine mesh over the breast area. An over-thinned Orange color is then misted over the mesh covered area. Its best to spray this area with a smaller tip size and in several light coats building up to the color depth you want. Using a freehand stencil to mask overspray the bluish area of the lower gill and mouth can be applied as needed. The depth of the blueish gill color is your choice...at times its darker blue and at other times its almost white...depends on the reference picture.

I mixed up a custom Green color for the back and vertial bars. I spray the bars first. Using a custom stencil and the custom color mix, very lightly spray the bars. Go lightly here and use low pressure...the slightly un-atomized paint looks realistic in the bar area. Once the bars are done add a little shade to the color mix and spray the back and upper head area. Carefully blend the bars into the back...color fade from the center back to the top of the bars. Pay some attention to the upper gill plate and around the eyes. A light spray of color around the eyes and upper gills makes a big difference after the eyes are put into place.

Now's as good a time as any to do a little detail work. Using a freehand stencil lightly spray some color on the gills to highlight the segments of the head and gills...look at your reference picture for ideas on where and how much to spray. Use the stencil to mask off an area and spray the very edge of the stencil, not the blank, for best results. This type of detail work requires using low air pressure and perfectly thinned paint...practice, practice. Be patient, don't get in a rush, and know you're going to mess up a few times before you get it right. The PVC pipe used earlier to fine tune colors will be you best buddy while you practice detail work.

So, now I need your help. I've posted two photo's of the blank painted with vertical bars and details. One photo is with vertical wavey stripes and the other is with wavey stripes and spots. I kinda' like both of them...can't make up my mind which way to go?? Let me know which you like best, please, so I can finish this pattern.

Great looking work as always, bois

Thanks Brad...which one do you favor wavey lines or spots and wavey lines?

They are both really nice to much so I couldn't pick a favorite. I'm revisiting the gill patterns tonight.