Okay guys here is what I got. I have been through 3 cranking batteries in the last month. Something on my boat is obviously draining my battery. Here is my set-up. I have an HDS 12 and HDS 9 in the console as well as an HDS 12 in the bow. I also have dual power poles. I just recently (last month) bought the 12 and moved my 9 to the console. Could the graphs and the aerator on automatic run the cranking battery down throughout the day. The only thing I have added over the last few years is the extra graph which again was last month. I have never had this problem until I put the extra graph on.

I am completely incompetent when it comes to this type of stuff. What are some trouble spots I need to look for?

Thanks

Try putting the 12" graph you are not using in power save mode so only one is running at a time. If that fixes it, then consider upping the size group of you battery, or just do that going forward!

3 graphs pull more than you think. Combine it with aerators it will definitely lose power. Upgrade your cranking battery and make sure it's charged before each trip

I have put an extra starting, graph, accessories, etc. battery in the boat to use if the attached battery loses power to start. Just change to connectors if necessary. I also make sure and charge all my batteries, daily, including the starting ones after every trip. Not enough driving time with the big motor to recharge them to peak performance.

Make sure your battery charger is good. Lead-acid batteries lose capacity if they sit around in an uncharged state.

The last two batteries are brand new. The boat sleeps inside and is hooked to a charger year round. Again this problem just started happening when I installed the new graph.

I think this is what I'm going to start doing. I don't have room where my crank battery is. How would you suggest I store it? Like do you think I need to wrap the battery or store it in an old box in one of my compartments?

Look into Deka Batteries they make a special cranking battery designed for cranking and multi units attached to it

yeah a dual purpose starting and deep cycle battery will work much better than trying to use that starting battery to run devices

What size is the starter battery? Make sure you have a good 31 series battery.The 24 and 27 series won't have near the reserve capacity that a 31 has. With that much drain you might look into a jump system that can be run off your trolling motor batteries also. That's a lot of draw off a single battery. Also how big is your charger and how long does it run between trips? It needs at least overnight and maybe longer on a low amp charger.

You never said what size (or capacity) battery you are using. With the electronics load I have (similar to yours) I use a Group 31 dual purpose battery. Gone are the days uf using low capacity Group 27 batteries if you want to survive those loads. Group 31 is typically the largest practical physical size available for boating. As noted, you need to put units you aren't looking at in low-power mode. This can easily cut their power consumption by more than 50%. Wake-up is almost instantaneous for HDS, so there's no aggravation with using this approach to save power. An HDS 12 can draw more power than an aerator pump, BTW.

New batteries are not best simply because they are new. One with insufficient capacity will fail, and replacing it will just get round 2 of the same. For starters, if you are using flooded cell lead acid technology (typical) you need a good hydrometer. This will allow you to insure that your charger is doing what it is supposed to in the first place. Here's an example of a good one:

Battery Hydrometer

To use it properly, let the charger run a couple of days. Then, unplug it overnight to let the battery rest at least 12 hours. Measuring the specific gravity after this rest gives the most accurate result. The hydrometer will have a chart of what to expect, or you can look at the detailed battery specs from the manufacturer. If the battery isn't at the proper specific gravity, you have a bad battery or a bad charger.

I know you said you keep the boat garaged with charger running. But, sometimes boats have unrealized loads that contribute to battery drain. Example: Navico radio wired to be energized anytime main +12V is present, even if you aren't listening to anything. I've encountered a number of boats that had things wired and consuming power when the owner was not aware. This can be checked easily using a small current ammeter (a function of most DVM tools) if you have a friend with a bit of electrical knowledge.

Do you have a master battery perko type switch? If you leave the master power on, the starting battery will run down from the gps antennas(s)continuously drawing power. At least that's the way it works on my boat.

I was having the same issue. I mounted rocker switches in battery compartment for 1. Depthfinder/Graphs/Ethernet power 2. Talons/power poles. The Shallowater anchors & Ethernet draw milliamperes constantly when not in use. Big graphs draw more than you'd think when in use.
A Perko power switch does the same. I rigged mine this way because it cost less & when getting boat ready to launch I would have to open lid to turn on a power switch anyway. Just flip the rockers on & go. I ran separate power wires to my new graphs( isolated power supply) to eliminate interference. Just put the positive lead thru the rocker switch. You can mount that switch at console if you want. I just put mine together in one place.
I run group 27 & it solved the issue. When that battery needs replaced I'll prolly upgrade to 29

No common toggle or rocker switch will support the amperage required by a single power pole, much less two of them. This is why J.L. Marine recommends a battery cut-off type switch. I'm going to guess Talons need just as much power. I hope you put a fuse on that isolated power lead for the electronics. (Having individual fuses for each electronic load doesn't protect the power wire feeding all of the individual units.)

I was having this issue with a group 31 that Inrterstate insisted was still perfect (under warranty). I bought a $50 jump pack at Walmart that is about the size of a paperback book. It is rechargeable and has started the boat 7 or 8 times now. I replaced the interstate battery with an Optima and am no longer having issues, but you can bet that jump pack will stay charged and in a zip-lock bag in the boat from now on. I know that the Interstate is faulty, but hooking it to a tester after it has been charging is not the same as it needing to work all day on the water.