Wax the top cap and sides, not the hull

High performance guys will actually sand their hulls lightly with the water flow. It makes air between the hull and water, the less water contact, the more speed.

If you have bad scratches you can use Marine-Tex epoxy to fill in the gouges and then wet sand the areas back smooth. This stuff dries really, realllllyyyyy hard! I spent about 5 hours sanding it down.

I filled this massive gouge in a few years ago with it and so far it looks just as good as the factory gel coat did. I have no idea what caused this and about had a heart attack when I saw it.

+1 on the Marine-Tex for gouges.

I have on gash that looks at little better than the one above, but the others are surface scratches. So marine tex for large gouge. And buff and wax the hull for the smaller scratches. Thanks guys!

I've had good success wet sanding the scratches with 1500 - 2000 grit wet sandpaper; then followed by rubbing compound and a buffer, followed by polishing compound, then some 3M Marine Finesse-It II. When using a buffer/polisher use the lowest speed and a foam or wool pad. If you don't have a buffer, you can use a random orbital polisher, but it will take longer. Be careful not to apply too much pressure to the buffer as the wool pad can damage the gel coat. Go slow and frequently check your progress.

+2 on the Marine Tex.

+3 Marine Tex fixed one like that three ft long from dragging over a T fence pole.

This is true. However, I would always wax a bassboat hull.

Although highly effective take caution on wet sanding, you shouldn't do that very often.

If it's not taking on water then I wouldn't worry about scratches myself. Bass boat made to be fished in... Not a boat show.

Agreed. If you use a sanding block and a light touch with 1500 - 2000 grit you should be OK for scratches that don't go through the gelcoat.

For scratches and scuffs use Meguiar's M6732 on a DA with a waffle pad. M6732 is a MARINE compound for fiberglass. Paint is not the same as fiberglass.