I can't seem to get the hang of casting lures. I get no distance at all when I cast. I am not certain if the I am using enough weight but I don't want to use too much. 17lb test with a 7'6" Gx2 Ugly Stick and a H20 reel. any help anyone can give me if greatly appreciated. I am fishing for specks by the way.

First off, is it a baitcaster or spinning reel? Second look at your pole. It should have a lure weight on it. Make sure your bait is in range of it. 3rd maybe look at some casting videos. For example try to throw like your throwing a baseball or football, from the hips and core as opposed to "arming" the ball. Also try to put some line lube like real magic. Depending on which reel you have we can narrow in down somemore.

Also sometimes overlooked, is your spool full with line or maybe low.. cause if its low that will lower your casting distance. A lot of guys I know also use spider wire or power pro (braided line) for extra casting distance but had mono for backing for the stretch in the line after the cast.

Adjust your cast control knob on side of the reel. Slowly loosen it until lure slowly drops and stops when it hits the water. Also if I'm not mistaking the H2O reels have a brake system inside the side plate. If so Take some of the brakes off. Look at the manual.

17 lb mono is pretty stout. I use 10 lb mono for trout and 14 lbs for reds but either works for either.

Another thing, does your reel have "antibacklash" adjustment? Try setting that to a minimum and using your thumb for better control.

I have been using 20# power pro for years with no problems of rotting. When I use mono nothing more than 10#. Do the adjustments and you should do fine.

When not using braid, I use 12, at most 15 pound mono. I have never had any issues of braid rotting due to salt water.

Casting distance with lures on a bait caster is about 2 things, reel settings and rod tip speed.

First as said above put your thumb on the spool and disengage the reel, tighten the cast control knob (also known as the spool tension knob) tighten it so the lure does not fall when the thumb is released. Slowly loosen it until the lure just barely starts to fall...the spool should stop when it hits the ground or water. If your reel has centrifugal brakes I'd start with only one engaged...as the commenter above stated... You should be able to throw the lure at this point without getting overrun as long as you put your thumb back on the spool when the lure hits the water.

Next is the casting movement... it's all in the wrists and use 2 hands... like above if you just ease it out there with one arm in a big swooping casting motion you won't generate enough rod tip speed. It's sort of like a pole vaulters pole, the rod has to be 'loaded' quickly to allow the energy in the rod to be stored and then it will release. The 2 handed method works best for that. Try casting a little harder, but not your HARDEST... after this adjust your tension knob either tighter or looser but at this point id not recommend letting it get too loose... you should have it tight enough that you're not getting overruns...and loose enough to where it's still getting out there pretty good with that harder cast. Practice practice practice. As you practice casting harder you can slowly loosen the reel up and as the other mentioned start managing the spool speed by just lightly touching the line during the cast...we call this 'feathering' the spool during the cast... touch is lite as a feather, just enough to keep the spool from over running (going faster than the bait). Casting down wind in a nice breeze helps learn how to get distance and will give you confidence.

(as mentioned above) You can cast any weight lure on any rod, however you won't maximize casting distance unless you're throwing a lure that is within the rated capacity of the rod. if over or under that you can cast it, just not as far . Try working with something in the 1/2 oz range like a zara spook or one knocker or super spook junior range. Those cast nicely. Another is a spinner bait with a 5/16 head and a saltwater assasin body.

Like the others said, braids don't rot in saltwater. I have found that Suffix Performance is the easiest to get a backlash out of and has good casting distance...However, i'd stick with mono for the time being, braid can be frustrating to learn with. Use 10 -15 lb mono and it will help you get a little distance over the 17. New fresh line helps as well since the old mono may have that curl memory in it.

If your reel has magnetic brakes set it after the spool tension knob adjustment. Set it also a little heavier (more resistance) at first and then as you practice slowly loosen it and slowly casting harder and harder.

Have fun with it and set the adjustments for each different lure weight you use. It won't be a big adjustment but if you methodically do it, you'll have less backlashes. I can tell you that the newest bait casters from Lews' are awesome and do a lot of the feathering of the spool for you. I have a BB1 Pro and it's been a dream of a caster...great distance with very few backlashes. it has a new design of anti backlash centrifugal brakes and gives a lot more adjustment room to get the distance that you want and give more control over 'over runs'.

hope that helps
tobin

17# is a bit heavy; the thickness and the wind resistance.

one handed casting a baitcaster is a similar action to tennis or raquetball.

H2O, is that the Academy brand? never used it but looked at it in the store when they had them on sale for around $25-30 a few years ago, i think the description said it uses a bunch of ball bearings. felt really smooth. but i already had a bunch of Abu's and Penns.

Then you are using the wrong braid. Spectra (or Dynemma) doesn't rot, saltwater or no saltwater. You must have been using the old Dacron which is much larger (and cheaper) than Spectra. About the only thing to affect Spectra is heat.

I cannot remember what the brand was but I do remember losing a large croaker and a red and when I lost the red I could break the braid with my hands.