I have a new triton and a bad back. The drain plug is so far under the boat I have to get on my hands and knee with the motor all the way up to get to the plug. I seen a remote switch that can be install (look pretty simple) but are they and good. I know Ranger has them on their boat but when I was looking at them the dealer I was talking with didn't think they would continue to put them on. That was before it became mandatory to pull the plug every time. The only one I seen was flow rite are there others?
Thanks Larry

I put a flow rite in mine and it has worked great so far. The only issue I had with the installation was building up enough nerve to cut a hole that big in my boat. The instructions were clear and it was a fairly quick process.

Call TIGHTLINES PREMIUM FISHING TACKLE AND BOAT SERVICE for a qualified answer. 254-690-3474 (FISH). They are located in Killeen, TX.

Did you have to cut a new hole for the plug it self or did the factory one work.

Mine was a direct replacement for the stock drain plug assembly.

Bass Boat Solutions has a cheaper version. I think it was the Original. I do not see on their website.
However, tackle warehouse has it.

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Bass_Boat_Solutions_Drain_Plug_System/descpage-BBSDPS.html

I was thinking of one of these.
http://www.diggeranchor.com/Bail-R-Matic.html

I'd just need to find more reviews on them first. Kind of like the old ball and chain.

The Flow Rite plug works like a champ. I caught it on a Labor Day sale at TW to save a few bucks.

How about install? Is this a do it yourself project or pay dealer kind of deal?

I had the same problem. The 10" jackplate makes it a pain to be crawling under the boat just to mess with the drain plug. Here are the photos of the "tool" I made to tighten & loosen the drain plug. I used 1/2 pvc conduit found in the electrical dept. of Home Depot & a 3/4" pvc coupler found in the plumbing department. The 1/2" pipe is flared on one end. I used 1/2" because it is narrower than the "tab" on the drain plug. If you use 3/4" pipe, the "tab" barely reaches the edge of the pipe. I cut a couple of slits in the 1/2" pipe. The coupler will not fit over the pipe very easily, so I heated the coupler & pipe with a heat gun. I didn't quite heat the coupler up enough so it cracked slightly. That's why I have the hose clamp on it. It is such a tight fit that you will not have to use pvc cement. I pushed the coupler on far enough so that the plug fits inside. You want the plug to go inside just up to the o-ring. I cut my pipe a little over 3' long. I also have the type of plug that stays attached to the boat even when it is loosened. I have absolutely no problem tightening & loosening the plug. DO NOT over tighten the plug or you will have to drill out the plug. This "tool" creates a lot of torque. You only have to snug it up slightly. I NEVER have to crawl under the boat anymore. The photos should help clarify everything.
Good Luck,
Mike

The plug used the same hole as the factory plug on my Ranger although you do replace the plug and fitting with the one that comes with the kit. I mounted my remote "dial" under my livewell on the driver's side. It's the red one on the bottm.

Mike I like your tool !! will be making one..

I have reservations about the remote plug.

I'm sure it will work fine until it gets plugged with some kind of debris..
Way to often I fish grass and or brush---- no mater how hard we try, a lot of this stuff eventually makes it's way to the drain plug. I'm sure all of us have found weights -hooks--swivels any number of small road rocks that get washed out of the drain plug.. I have a feeling it would be more trouble for me than it's worth as it looks like most anything that finds it's way to the drain is going to get hung in it....JMO