Guys, Have a problem ... maybe some opinions, please.

I am looking at a 2001 Tracker Pro Deep V (riveted) thats in mint condition. The price is right but the owner is very much less than willing to let me "water test" or take to OB shop for the ole "once over". He says all riveted boats leak somewhat and thats what bilge pumps are for and that he has a compression gauge that I can measure with, etc. I want to trust the old guy and think that he just doesnt want to be bothered with these things but am scared crapless of getting screwed over!

Should I walk away from the thing or is there anything anybody can offer me to help persuade the guy to let me due my diligence on the boat? I have had some people say that this water test and trip to OB shop is pretty standard operating procedure, opinions?

What to do ? I'd like the boat, its in good shape and in my price range.


Thanks for anything anyone can provide.

FishByte
McKinney
new member

FishByte, if the guy doesn't want to take you out in it, then something is fishy somewhere. Perhaps he doesn't want to bother with getting it out and getting to the lake, and he thinks that is a hassle. However, if he really wants to sell the boat, then that is what has to be done. Maybe offer to help fill the tank if he is worried about the cost.

I wish I would have taken my boat I bought to the lake. I trusted the guy that I bought my boat from too. WRONG!!!

The owner I bought my boat from never had the boat out in the water ever. He just told me it ran fine, and I believed him. No reason not to, he was my neighbor.

Point is, if it is worth buying, then it is worth getting it out on the water. You may not want the headache of repairing something minor on the boat that it may need.

By the way, that is NOT what bilge pumps are for. They are not for boat leaks. They are for water spray and water that gets in the boat from normal use. Not to bail you out because your boat is leaking. That is how people sink boats right there.

If I were you I would NOT buy it unless he took me out on the water with it to see how it performs. That at least, is the very minimum he should do. I can see not wanting to let the boat out of his site, but in order to sell a boat, that is what you have to do now days.

Put it this way, would you buy a car without a test drive on it?
Taking the word of a used car salesman? (No offense to any used car salesman here).

Good luck on it.

Walk away if he is firm on that. I have often thought that if I were buying or selling that it would only be fair to offer or require a fee for on water testing, with that "fee" being applied to the price if bought or sold. This would also weedout the tirekickers. I do not feel it is out of line to ask for $50.00. It takes me 30-35 minutes to get to a lake and my time is money the same as anyone elses. Factor in fuel for boat and tow vehicle and to me it would seem fair.
Maybe if you offered him $20-$25 for the test, he may see you as a serious buyer. He may have had numerous people already "try" it out and is agitated. I don't know. One thing I do know is if he is reluctant for you to test it then just walk away.

All riveted boats do _not_ leak ...
My 11 yr old smokercraft has been pulled all over texas and fished hard .. and doesnt leak a drop.

Unless, the seller is willing to let you lake test... I wouldn't walk, Id run away from that priced right "mint condition" rig.

JMHO

good luck with your boat search

tight lines

Tha BassRustler

no lake test, value drops by 50%, that's just my opinion - not any kind of generally accepted rule of thumb or anything.

FishByte,

We have offered free courtesy checks for years. We will do a compression test, test run the engine, and look for any defects in the hull. Aluminum is a little different, but you can generally find out about the boat by inserting the drain plug and filling the boat with some water. If it leaks, you will see what rivets it is coming out of.

No boat check? I wouldn't touch it if the seller wouldn't let you take it somewhere. Even if you have to spend an hour's labor ($70-100) with someone, it will be some of the best money you ever spent.

I , too would run like hell from that deal, something is rotten in Denmark about that deal! Buying a boat is a major purchase to me, I would sure 'nuff wanna test it out in everyway possible before I layed my money down! Too many crooks now days to trust the stranger!

There are some instances where the seller may have no or little knowledge about the boat. For instance death in the family, owner died and executor had no knowledge of boats. (value, operation of , condition....)

Most people should allow a mechanic's inspection. If not a water test. If neither is allowed walk to the back of the boat with a pencil and a piece of paper, on the right side of the transom for the serial number. (it should end in 01) Take it down and spend 2 bucks for a TP&W research. TX numbers help as well as the SN of the boat motor.

There are plenty of up standing people out there, but there are several that are not.

Do not get you mind set on one particular boat. IMO you answered your own question. If you are in question of the boat you probably know the answer that is in your head.

THANKS SO MUCH you guys for all your response!

Kingfisher82, Turns out the guy is a used car sales man!! LOL How about that!?

However, J. Steve hit the nail on the head. He was just concerned that I was a "tirekicker" as he put it.

Ultimately he WILL let me take to lake AND OB shop so I feel much better about it.

HOWEVER, this Tracker has hit a stump near the front of the bottom just before the V hull starts to rise. Am going to start a new thread on that one. Please see (North Texas Fiberglass).

Again, MUCH THANKS for all responses. I love this site, great source of gaining and sharing info!!

JUST FOR KICKS RE: SELLING A USED BOAT.....

When I blew the head, (and other parts) of my 85 Suzuki (total loss), I parted out the kicker and put a $600 sale price on the Kingfisher hull and trailer.

I had several folks say they would consider the boat if they could water test it.

I suggested all they had to do was put in the drain plug and run a hose inside to see if it leaked. They said NO...It had to be launched and checked out by a mechanic.

Note please they were standing next to the boat and trailer when hey wanted to have a mechanic 'check it out'.

Either they weren't too serious about the purchase, or couldn't understand what my laughter meant.

I repriced the rig down to $550, and am ready to drop $50, but I still think the trailer alone is worth $500.

Anyway, it serves me a great laughter generator when they claim I should have a motor atached if I was charging the great sum of $550.

Anyone need a Kingfisher hull and good trailer? Sure it's a 1978 hull, but it's a great starter rig.

Ross

Ross is that the tri-hull or a padV? What length/width? My old tri-hull beats me to death in rough water - wonder if my 70 would be adequate?

I kinda think I can make a decision on a $500 hull without floating it. But I wouldn't necessarily laugh at somebody wanting a second opinion on the transom...

As far as checking a fiberglass boat to see if it is any count, all one has to do is get in it & walk the floor to see if there are any soft, spongy places, then take a pocket knife & tap firmly on the transom to see if it sounds hollow anywhere, if it does, it is rotted inside, stay away from it unless you wanna spend a couple grand to have it fixed!If the floor stringers are rotted, it will have a soft, spongy floor! it is very simple to check a boat out without all the hassle of a mechanic checking it or filling it full of water.

IMO--I'm speaking of my 16-foot 1978 tri-hull. I didn't find anything wrong with it when I was using it, and sure don't mind if someone used a pocketknife and the old 'dance on the deck' test to see if it's worth $500 to the buyer.

I had an 85 Suzuki and it did more than I needed. Before tripping over the Astro I have now, I considered picking up a friend's 50 horse E-rude. Can't comment on how it would lift the kingfisher hull, but I do know that I normally backed off on the throttle when I was running with that 85 Suzy.

I know that any time in the past I bought a used boat (many, many hulls)without an existing motor, I would take along a friend to point out all the bad points to me. A good pessimist is wonderful when you start drooling over fishing gear, especially boats.

Justs to start a buyer off properly, I have 25 ft.lb.
trolling motor that needs a control cable. I was handed the trolling motor gratis by a friend who was moving out of state and already sold his boat. I demand the exact same price I paid for the trolling motor as I paid for it.

Bilge pump is fairly new and works good. There's a live well under the console seat to which I atached a pump and control switch. Big Deal, but that's a few odds and ends someone won't have to buy.
Finally, just to insure you don't end up the creek without one, I'll toss in a paddle.

Ross
rosspar@tconline.net

I aint goin out on that thing til ya get it checked, course i probably won't get asked either

TexDawg,

You should KNOW by now that your UGA lovin' hind quarters is welcomed in my boat anytime, Sir !!

Couldnt pick a better fishing buddy !! Even if you are a Dawg fan!!

Go Gamecocks !! Next Sept we should have a goodun', eh ?!

I gotta get me one of those icons for USC, how'd you do that ?