How is the belt tension on the serpentine belt idler pulley adjusted? I need to reduce tension so that the idler arm pulley will let the belt ride a little higher. Hope I can explain this. I used a shorter belt to bypass the power steering pump pulley. The belt is routed under the idler pulley, around the alternator pulley then on top of the water pump/fan pulley. The idler pulley is directly above the water pump pulley and the belt has very little if any clearance at this juncture. If I can reduce the idler pulley spring tension then the belt will ride a little higher giving clearance. 'Fraid that's the best I can explanin it. (Why I bypassed the power steering pump pulley is another topic completely).
This is on '88 Astro 4.3 l. v-6

email is quicker:
grandpa75672@yahoo.com

There is no adjustments, it's a self adjuster. You would need a 5/8 socket and breaker bar. Put it on the bolt of the tensioner pulley and turn it counter clockwise to release the tension.

How you going to drive without the pump?
Replace the mounting collar as advised in the other post

Drive quite well with out the pump, thank you. Its running without the pump. It doesnt run with the pump. I cant fix anything unless I can get to work to make the money to pay a deposit on the pulley puller to remove the pump to get to the mounting bolts to remove and replace the collar or bracket or what ever the term is. It must be nice to have the luxury of making lots of money so you can afford to take your vehicles to a mechanic. I dont hae that luxury. I have to make do or do without. And I do without a lot of things. I know Im venting, but you ticked me off.

Grandpa
did you see where i asked how far you were from Dallas in the other post about your power steering pump,the reason i asked was because i was going to offer to help you out and install that horseshoe bracket for you,because it can be a pain in the butt to take it off and back on,i know from personal experience that it is a very challeging job.Anyway i would be glad to help you out if you could get the parts and come to Mesquite on a saturday that i am off.Besides that i think you are going to find that right beside that power steering pump where that bracket connects to the block that the bolts are broken off in the block.

thanks for the offer, mr browning, but I work on week ends and its about 150 miles to Dallas from Marshall. I think I have another vehicle here sold that will allow e to pay my local mechanic to replace the pump braket if I get into too much trouble. At least the way I it working now I can still drive to work and also work on the pump. Also have a repair manual coming. So tht should help me do what I need to do. Looks like this van will be around a while and I need to learn how to work on it. I used to work on my cars when I was a kid but things have changed a bit in the last 30 or 40 years. I used to do all my own brake work and tune ups (remember when it was points, plugs, and condenser?). You dont repair things now adays. The compputer tells you what component if defective and you replace it. Things may last longer but it cost and amr and a leg to work on them. Rebuilt fuel pumps used to be $20 and maybe an hour including the trip to the parts store. Now it cost $500 plus, drop the fuel tank, buy the component, and install it. Didnt fix anything, just replace it. Some day I'm gonna buy a 300ci Ford inline 6 1/2ton pick up with standard shift and a one or two bbl carb. The only modification I would make is electronic ignition cause Ineve did like replacing points.
I know its a pipe dream.

grandpa do you have a hydraulic brake booster or vacuum? I think those '88s had vacuum. Reason I ask is the hydraulic one is run off the power steering pump and doing without the pump means doing without brakes. I'm sure you know this of you are driving around like that. I would suggest buying the puller. I goy mine at one of the auto parts stores for about 15 bucks I think. To rent one is more expensive even if you get every penny back, the upfront is more like 50 bucks. Hope this helps.