I want something I can work 5/8 swimjigs, 1oz spinners (44 magnum spinner baits) and 20ft crank baits... primarily the crank baits, but am worried a crank specific rod won't be suitable for multiple presentations. I am not a dozen rod kind of guy... I generally bring along 2 rods when I back boat, so having versatility is favored over having the end all be all technique specific ideal rod for a given bait. I don't feel it should be outside the realm of realistic expectations to be able to use one rod for working a myriad of deeper running cranks/heavier baits that push more water.

I am looking for CHEAP rods too... pretty much $100 price cap unless it's something that will just defy the laws of physics and actually catch bass on its own while I'm fishing my other rod or something... The rod will be paired with the baits mentioned above, and 10-20lb fluoro, with an Abu Orra Winch 5.4:1 reel I will be buying specifically for the new rig. Abu Garcia is my preferred brand for what it matters but I am open minded. I think I want a medium heavy fast action 7' 6" Vendetta 2 since I really like my 7' MH fast that I use for my plastics. I see a lot of good reviews for the diesel glass cranking rod though and it is dirt cheap... shimano and several others have cranking rods at the price point as well... I'd love some feed back as far as specifics that I should look for in a blank for the intended purpose I have and my plans in general etc.

Let me know what you guys think,
Richard

Abu Garcia Veritas Winch Cranking Rod 7'6" Med Hvy and many other cranking rods seem suitable for my cranking needs, but can anyone give me feedback on versatility of cranking rods? From what I research hey are a single purpose tool for people... that's not what I want but if it's what I need let me know.

Was the bass section not a good place to ask for opinions on cheap rods? 60 views and no comments, I'm shocked! haha


Anyone have feedback on the Veritas cranking rod? Versatility of cranking rods in general? Glass vs Graphite cranking rods? Even just some links to good reading material is fine... someone take me to school here!

I can't help you in that price range. For my deep water rods I use a Dobyn's DX 785ML for jigs and a Falcon Cara Lizard Dragger for C-Rigs. My deep crankers are a Loomis cb 7'Hvy. For DD 22 and XD6 type baits and a Dobyn's 806cb for XD10's and other mag. Type crankbaits. Good luck in your search.

For your price specifications, the Veritas is a good cranking rod. Not what I use, but I have fished with them on guide trips. You want a rod for cranking with a good backbone and soft tip. For deep divers I use a 7'6" MH moderate action. For shallow to medium divers, I use a 7'0" Medium moderate action rod. Also, a good cranking reel is a must! Revo Winch is the best I have used.
You can have an all purpose rod which I would recommend as a 7'0" MH fast action. It will work for cranking but you may loose some fish. But I would not buy a cranking rod for use with other applications.
Just my 2 cents.

Bass Pro has the TFO Signature series for $109.99. There are some awesome 7'6" rods in the line.

For $169.99 you can get a 7'9" Tactical rod that would blow your mind.

Well the dual purpose would still be deep water, 44 magnum are 1.5oz deep spinner baits, and the 5/8 chatterbaits move some fair water, though I'd probably still chunk them on the Vendetta 7' MH fast I use as my general purpose rod. I just can't really afford to have a rig that I can pretty well only deep crank on. That isn't where I spend the majority of my time nor my preferred presentation, so if a cranking rod is going to be that wildly different, I may just have to go with a heavier duty general purpose like the longer/heavier action Vendetta with the Winch as my backup indeed.

So no one out there successfully using cranking rods for anything but crank baits then? Kind of what I was worried about... but hoping it'd be flexible enough to work the 1.5oz spinner bait with as well at least. I want a deeper water rod basically and seemed like crank bait rod would fit the bill best. I mean just based on 5/8-1 1/2oz lure weight.... that plants me pretty solidly into staring at rows of cranking rods far as I can tell, never mind the majority of the lures thrown on it being cranking rods. I have found some instances of people using them for larger open water spinners like I intend to use one as well.

I suppose the topic is more discussing that possible versatility from a cheaper cranking rod vs. doing my cranking with a "regular" rod? Or what makes a cranking rod only good for cranking? At least more in that direction than just listing rods I could get for around $100, because that's quick and easy to find out and discussing which brand to pick is almost as bad as talking religion or politics. So less WHICH rod and more WHAT rod to buy, with a little bit of WHY that type rod will work best in your opinion. I always try to be as specific as possible and critically assess what I want when I ask, and TFF always delivers with someone who possesses just the perfect nugget of knowledge I seek. I know yall won't let me down on this one!

That dude from Bayou Custom Rods might be able to help you out. I would try lip rippin' Landers as well with those Hook spit rods he pushes so hard. I don't think either of them were priced much over $100.

I thought you knew all about rods and how academy sells the cheapest quality rods around and you couldn't get a good rod under $100 anywhere else. Good luck. A rod for cranking deep and a rod made for jig or working deep are two differnt worlds. Parabolic bends are total opposite. You want backbone but give with a cranking rod and pure sensitivity/stoutness with worm,spinnerbait,or deep jig. You arn't getting any answers because you're one sided when it comes to your opinions and it's easy seen in all your posts. If it were me I would use a 7'3" heavy for the deep single hook baits and a 7'6"+ med hev mod or hev mod for cranking. Softer or slower tip for treblehook baits and faster or stiffer rods for single hook baits. The brand isn't going to matter you have to get what's affordable. They'res a guy selling used Powell rods in the classifieds. I fish on a budget also but I will be the first person to buy something from the classifieds rather than pay full price if I don't have to. I would rather have quality used gear than cheap new gear.

look at some of the Halo rods.. they are in your price point and if you'll go to the tackle warehouse site they list the suggested uses for each rods, also look at 13 fishings Omen series rods, and the St croix Mojo series both may fill the bill for you.

And yet here you are replying?

Thanks for the somewhat useful bits strewn in there with the personal attacks. I'm glad I've had such a lasting impression on you. I am also glad you know better than Brett Hite. Please keep letting me know how much superior you and your knowledge are. Here is a tiny nugget of my research results for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX0LCOX0-Yo



While I understand some of the fundamental differences you cited and am well aware of them, I see pro's using glass and composite rods for their chatter baits (cranking jig = crank bait somewhat? ) so I wasn't sure if that applied to all aspects of the rod or just the composition. I have no problems with my 7' MH fast vendetta hooking up chatter baits, didn't think it'd be that different on a 7' 6" MH moderate (cranking) rod... could get a 7' 6" MH fast, but you're saying then it would be less suitable for the crank baits (trebles) but better with the single hooks (spinner/chatter baits)... I also don't know how I'd feel about slinging a 1.5oz spinner with that much tip in open water...

I'm far from a subject matter expert, and hardly anything short of open minded. Just looking to do some informative bench fishing based on my criteria listed and make sure the question is detailed and specific enough to get good theory applied. Not talking 3/8-3/4 spinners here, and not talking ordinary 3/8th jigs/swim jigs either. It is a fairly unique rod to ask for as far as I'm concerned, and while no 1 rod may be perfect, that doesn't mean it has to be that far off given the parameters. If I wanted one from for 3/8th spinners, 1/2oz jigs, and 20+ft cranking that'd be one thing but I think this is a bit more narrow a spread than you're making it out to be honestly... my research has yielded at least as much as that information with people using cranking rods for larger spinners and likewise chatter baits. I just want to see if I'm better off to do that or if there is a compromise that will work on the crank baits but suit the other specifics better, etc. I will continue actively researching the subject, and as usual have opened this channel to actively take in 1st hand research information from TFF, in both hopes of finding answers to help me, and supply answers for future people who find themselves asking the same question(s), or people who might even find use for the information at present other than myself.

Thanks for the info in advance everyone,
Richard

Most of my rods are lamiglas and are not cheap,but I have bought some cheaper rods from bass pro called the bionic blade for friends to use and have been very pleased with them for the price. They have great reviews. I'm blessed enough to afford new lew's reels and higher priced rods,but some of the other lower priced rods are very good and will do what all these more pricey rods will do. Us bass fishermen are sort of like women with their hand bags,some think they have to have Gucci and some can carry the same amount of stuff with a bag from J.C Penny's. Get what you can afford and go often my friend.

Most of my rods are lamiglas and are not cheap,but I have bought some cheaper rods from bass pro called the bionic blade for friends to use and have been very pleased with them for the price. They have great reviews. I'm blessed enough to afford new lew's reels and higher priced rods,but some of the other lower priced rods are very good and will do what all these more pricey rods will do. Us bass fishermen are sort of like women with their hand bags,some think they have to have Gucci and some can carry the same amount of stuff with a bag from J.C Penny's. Get what you can afford and go often my friend.

The discussion could be had at any budget honestly, I mean... the glass composite rod Brett Hite uses is an $800 rod. I could very well spend less than $200 on a rod that behaves the same and the only difference be a tiny bit of weight or sensitivity. It's a bit like motorcycle helmets.... a lot of guys are snobs about their $1000 carbon fiber helmets, when they are all tested and rated to the same standards and the only difference is an ounce or two of weight. I'm a younger guy with a neck like a pit bull... I can race go karts at 3g's with a mop bucket for a helmet and not notice, I don't need to lose the weight.

In much the same way, I am not nearly refined enough in my methods that I think I could tell the difference between a $100 rod and a $500 rod that readily, nor do I think a higher end rod would automatically suit my needs as an angler better.

That said, the most winning Chatterbait angler uses and recommends cranking rods for chatterbaits and says the slower taper gives him way better hook ups over a spinnerbait rod and braid like many guys run. That pretty much only leaves my random 1.5oz spinner bait lure request in the mix, and I don't know what would be "ideal" for throwing them if I was picking a rod to only ever throw them, but I have a feeling I would end up pretty close to where I am pointed for my chatterbait and cranking needs to throw a big heavy spinner slow rolled deep with no trailer hook. I had to give up braid and even switch to a fluorocarbon line with more stretch (and way less sensitivity ) already to help my hook up ratio. Worst case scenario, I can always put braid backing on the slower action rod if its too much of a buggy whip for me to drive big hooks home. Either way if it'll work well for cranking and chatter baits that is enough to suit what I want form this next rig and what it will be used for 90% of the time.