I took the link and worked my way through the presentation and found it to be quite excellent. The system it describes is very close to what a professional fish hauler would have.

If I were to upgrade this system a bit I would change from a preset flow meter to one that can have different settings. I did notice that the presentation included a plastic clamping device to slow the flow of oxygen.

Adding a bit to what's been said here. Oxygen is not the only parameter that can get out of kilter in a live well (or live haul box). If little or no water is exchanged and a lot of fish in the box, ammonia will build up and eventually be toxic to the fish, especially in water with a high pH. The water should be freshened regularly in such cases. Remember to not let the fish get too hot or too cold too fast. Generally speaking, if adding ice to a live box, the water temp should not be lowered much more than 10 degrees F. Oh you can keep those fish lively by chilling hem waaaay down, and win the tourney, but that can cause a delayed reaction resulting in mortality in some cases.

At 0.1 lpm, even a small oxygen bottle will last a long time, likely several days, as long as you remember to TURN THE VALVE OFF when you finish needing it.

There are many other issues regarding live wells in boats, culling for tournaments, exposure of the fish in the well to pathogens such as virus, bacteria and parasites, as well as transporting/spreading these with or without fish. Add in problems associated with the transfer of spores from invasive plant species, and the possibility of carrying eggs or fry of invasive fish (or insect or other) species.

To keep from spreading problems, live wells should be drained (on dry ground or down the sewer, not a storm drain), cleaned, and refilled with a solution of 1 to 100 bleach then circulated through the system, and drained and flushed, ready for the next trip, sterilized.

We run a live release trailer and use the commercial oxygenators in our tank. They do produce oxygen. The key is to give it time to work. I will fill the rank that morning. We also have an oxygen saturation meter and there is no question the levels rise. Those that doubt this I would be happy to show you.

As for additives, we use U2. The granule/powders will NOT work with the system. It must be a liquid to keep the emitters from clogging.

We have taken straight tap water and added U2 for tournaments and will not loose fish. U2 is the best on the market in my opinion. Dissolves instantly and is cheaper than most on the market. Doesn't foam, removes the ammonia from the water.

Think of the complete system like this... When you see a lineman recover a fumble and run the length of the field what is the first thing he is given when he hits the sideline...(oxygen). Next fluids with electrolytes. This is the same concept in our tank. We take a stressed/tired fish and put it in oxygen rich water with U2. We do our best to release the fish in better shape then when it was brought in. We did our homework and this is what we run. We are not given anything. We buy all our product and provide it to our customers to ensure quality and consistency.

Nitro has the CoolGuard livewell cooling system as a option. I have seen the Charger boats thing, and that's a good idea. Its Kinda like a soda gun at a bar or restaurant, dependent on ice.

I have used the oxygenators for awhile and never lost a fish on my Nitros, at least ones that were not injured from deep hooking.

this is all you need, same as an aquarium. I hard wired mine to a switch and leave it on no matter what the temp is. haven't lost a fish since putting it in. you can also use please release me with no problems.

http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine-m...ump&Ntk=All